Is it cost-effective to rebuild this truck?

[RadioFreeDurango]

Five years ago we bought a 1999 Ranger XLT M/T V6 4.0 with 246,000 miles on it. It now has 252k and I spent the past week in it driving across Wyoming, including two days on either end to get there and back - a little over 2000 miles. I also turned 65 and spent a lot of time pondering the future. It is my plan to do a fair amount of off-road/overland driving and I need some honest feedback on whether this truck is the right one. I recently replaced the dash switch and transfer case motor, but still can't be certain that it's always dropping into 4WD. I have to find just the right RPM to shift up into 3rd or it grinds. I've been looking for a new drivers seat for two years and still can't find one. It needs a new rear main seal. What will a winch and skid plates set me back? The body is in pretty good shape, and I love the truck. In those 2000 miles this past week I rarely went over 65 and that suits me fine. Ballpark estimates for all of this work are most welcome, as are pro and con points. Should I keep it or find a new one? Many thanks in advance.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It’s honestly a tough call and it really depends on a lot of things. I’ve fixed things that probably should have been sent to scrap, and I’ve done it mostly working outdoors in a gravel driveway. Captain Cavepig, using the ground, a tailgate, or a 55 gallon drum for a workbench. Finally got an 8’x8’ shop with a real bench and a bench vice actually bolted to it this year and will hopefully be extending it another 4’ before winter hits. Hopefully within the next couple years I can get my temporary garage up.

My green 2000 Ranger, with the help of a buddy and on a small concrete pad area outside of his garage in the alley behind his house in town, we removed the entire rear half of the frame (Rangers from 98-11 used a two-piece frame that is joined at the front leaf spring hanger) and swapped it for a junkyard section. I think it was about two years ago, I cut a damaged section of the front frame section out of that same truck and welded in a reinforced replacement section. I’m currently in process of dropping the front axle to get at a crack in the frame above the front axle and below the motor on the inside there. Entire drivetrain swap, lowered, etc. It will never be worth what I’ve spent on it. But that’s not why I do it, I do it for me.

Same reason I’ve modified all of my toys. Spent a lot patching them up. Everything is built to suit a particular purpose with me. Green Ranger as a fun street toy, Choptop for a road legal off-road toy. F-150 as a heavy work rig. Dump truck as a work rig. My 88 for sort of a Sunday driver. 92 I hadn’t settled on a solid plan when it got smashed for me, it might come back as an off-road only rig and my blue 00 was what made me fall in love with these trucks. It’s going to get a spinny thing added to the motor when it gets put back together…

All in how much you love it and what you are willing to do about it…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh, and to directly address a few points…

My F-150 has been particular about how you shift it for the past probably 10 years. I’ve adapted and I live with it. Not everyone is willing to do that, in which case your options are a junkyard one in questionable condition, a rebuilt one, or rebuild it yourself. I’m going one of the rebuild options when I rebuild the F-150 because that is a junkyard transmission in it and it’s problems have existed since day one of me getting it.

It is possible to find an older Ranger with a manual t-case in a junkyard and swap it in to get rid of the questionable electronics. You need to find one with an M5OD and get the shifter and shift boots and all, plus the floor plate under the carpet/vinyl flooring on top of the transmission hump. That will have the hole cut in it for the shifter.

Is it really the rear main seal or are the valve covers leaking down the back of the block and making it appear like a rear main seal leak? Unfortunately not easy to determine other than maybe pull the starter and send an inspection camera in. I believed my green 00 Ranger had a rear main leak, and so did two mechanics. When the transmission puked, I used that rear main seal leak as a justification for doing a V-8 swap (hey, it needs it all anyway, right?). Well, then I needed a 4.0 and well I’ll just throw a new rear main on it and be ready to rock. I had pulled the engine and trans together so I separated them ready to do a rear main seal only to find the seal was good. Everything around the seal was clean and bone dry, but both valve cover gaskets were leaking down the back of the block.

 

[RadioFreeDurango]

Valve cover seals are such an easy fix! I'll definitely look into that ASAP. Appreciate the heads up on that.

 

[Terrys87]

As long just as you are doing the work yourself and how well you like the truck. I have not worked on a 99 but if you are comfortable with it, I say yes it would be worth it. You find another truck and even if you could buy it for $1, I would tell you to be prepared to spend at least another $1000 just to get the basic maintenance up to where it needs to be if not more. You have already put a couple of miles on it, so it is not hiding any unforeseen surprises that you do not already know about.

 

[bobbywalter]

that is the second best truck. first being a ttb chassis with a 4.0 and 5 speed manual.

you can actually work on it....even backwards with it or forwards in parts with minimal sorcery. but it has fuel and wiring quirks compared to the obd1 and early obd2 .

its a keeper.

 

[RadioFreeDurango]

Tell me about these fuel and wiring quirks, please. I'm fine doing most work myself, but I'm rural and work alone, so doing trannies and such might go to a local shop.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm gonna move this to General Discussion Forum. Once you decide what direction you're gonna go... the 4x4 and off road truck forum would be where you post your build thread of the truck you choose.

An example of goofy things on your newer (gen 4) truck is heater core replacement. Earlier trucks a heater core takes about 30 minutes to replace. Your truck is an all day project and you're likely to use a bunch of dirty four letter words getting it done.

Starting with Gen 4 trucks... they became IFS. It's referred to as SLA (short long arm) front suspension. While it has better on road driving feel... it's limited in suspension travel vs the TTB (twin traction beam). Also it's easy to get a little lift in the front by adjusting the torsion bars... but it uses up valuable suspension travel and you lose some of the smooth driving characteristics. Body lifts are common to gain clearance for larger tires for added ground clearance.

There will likely be much more information thrown your way for you to ponder. I'm sure you have a vision of a finished project... write down all your "must haves" and see where you land.

I'll throw out a suggestion for bumpers... Affordable Offroad. There are Chinese knock offs being sold on Amazon and the like. Good price too... but you get what you pay for. Those don't come close to the quality you'll get from AOR.

 

[Lefty]

I might get a lot of flack for saying this, but I'm going to say it anyway. It's not really cost effective to restore any car or truck that is over twenty years old. It's got no bluebook value whatsoever. All that time and money will never ever make your truck worth any more that what it is now.

All except for one thing. You get to build the truck you always wanted. Rebuild, modify, customize: go crazy. Crack it open. Make it new again. Make it better. Make it custom.

And if you make it right, it will drive for another twenty five years or more, look new, clean, and sharp. You won't have monthly payments. Your insurance will be less.

I bought my Ranger for a little less than four K, and put another fifteen into it, but for all intents and purposes I'm driving something brand new.

The Ford dealer told me that I had the nicest old Ranger in the city.

I've chosen to upgrade instead of making payments. A couple years ago I had a shop install a Torsen limited slip. I remember afterwards the manager told me that his mechanic thought I was nuts...at least until he looked underneath.

Everything was brand new and in good repair. The truck had been repainted, not only on top but also underneath. After that mechanic finished, he took it out for a spin and found out that other upgrades made it handle right and tight and that it could stop on a dime.

That Torsen cost a couple thou but on hindsight the guys in the shop thought it was well woth it.

And, yes, the Ford dealers told be that old Rangers are very popular and that mine would easily sell in less than a week.

That raises an entirely different question. Maybe you might want to look around and see if there's another old Ranger that is in better shape.

 

[sgtsandman]

As with anything, there are pluses and minuses to them. The rebuilding and reconditioning of the truck is going to be your call. From what you describe, I would.

The original Rangers can get into a lot of places that a lot of other vehicles can't because they are so small. The SLA front suspension is limiting but can get you into and out of a lot of places still. Not as well as a Ranger with TTB, but it will still do it. You just need to set the truck up right and know what you are doing.

The 6 foot bed still works pretty well for truck bed camping, though it will be pretty tight. I've done it in my 2011 and will continue to do it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Rebuild?

It just needs a rear main and syncros.

Assuming it is a supercab so go find seats out of a first or second gen Explorer.

 

[Lefty]

Send along some pictures

 

[RobbieD]

I might get a lot of flack for saying this, but I'm going to say it anyway. It's not really cost effective to restore any car or truck that is over twenty years old. It's got no bluebook value whatsoever. All that time and money will never ever make your truck worth any more that what it is now.

All except for one thing. You get to build the truck you always wanted. Rebuild, modify, customize: go crazy. Crack it open. Make it new again. Make it better. Make it custom.

And if you make it right, it will drive for another twenty five years or more, look new, clean, and sharp. You won't have monthly payments. Your insurance will be less.

Very true.

Another perspective, is that some people simply prefer older styling, the simpler "retro" driving experience, and the easier-to-maintain older technologies whether it's vehicles 20 years, 30 years or 50 years old.

My "newest" vehicles are 31 years old. I'm not a slave to a car dealer, mechanic or a monthly payment. And I don't worry about getting around, either.

It's mainly a thing that some of us dinosaurs prefer having what we grew up with and what we know, but you do see the occasional young person really digging driving something that is older than they are.

An older vehicle also makes for a great toy or second car.

With me, simpler is better. You can't buy 'em like that anymore. I don't want ANY nanny technology forced on me; I hate touch screens, and I have very little faith in current design, materials and workmanship when it comes to a new vehicle. And they ain't exactly cheap.

There are of course downsides with older ones- like parts availability, and finding a competent mechanic on things beyond your ability. Just don't look at it as a profitable investment; an older vehicle is still just transportation, but it is good, too, for pressing your "happy button".

If driving, owning and loving an older vehicle attracts you, by all means go for it. It'll be an experience, and you'll probably be a happier, better person for it.

 

[Shran]

I would say your answer is dependent on how comfortable you are working on your own vehicle. 246k is not much in the grand scheme of 4.0's if it has been maintained. 3-400k+ is not uncommon.

Skid plates are not available to buy as far as I know. They are not hard to fabricate but you need a welder and the other accoutrements.

Harbor Freight and Smittybilt winches are really good for the price. Affordable Offroad sells bumpers for your truck I think. If you go with that, I would recommend getting a winch with synthetic rope rather than steel cable.

Assuming it is a supercab so go find seats out of a first or second gen Explorer.

There are enough differences in 98+ seats and tracks that it's almost not even worth attempting to put older seats in those trucks. However anything up to 2011 should be a direct bolt in and there are a lot of those around. I think sometime around 08 or so they got kind of complicated with airbags and stuff though.

 

[superj]

If you live in south texas, people are always selling ramger seats. The last set i saw, which is probably still on marketplace, was for an 05 for 100 bucks. Looked identicsl to the ones in my 04 so i passed on them. Mine arent torn but are the split bench and i dont want that again but if you need one, the one on MP was in nice shape