Is brake line flaring difficult?


what size line?


the titan is the best one for the money.




great deal...

I got one of those from jegs when I redid my F150 lines. worked really well.
 
Cool. Thanks for all the information. Need to practice some more on flaring. I'll follow up
Just recently started practicing with the Auto Zone loaner tool.
My flares look good. But occasionally, flare is not perfect 90 degree to the tubing. A little more practice and I should be good to go.
I will follow up when done
 
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I had one flaring tool that would make a crooked flare every time, no matter what I did. Looking back I think it was the little button piece that you use in the first step. I remember it being a very loose fit so if it wasn't perfectly centered, the tube would crush unevenly. I have a better one now and it works great 95% of the time.

Main thing regardless of what tool you use is to file the tube perfectly flat and square after cutting it and then debur the inside. I use a dull pocket knife for that.
 
Makes sense Shran.
I have to make do with lower quality AZ loaner tool. I'm still able to turn out some good flares with it.
I'll practice some more tonight and I'll send you guys a pic of a flare
 
I practiced brake line flaring again tonight. I decided not to post a pic yet because....well.....to be honest, my flares just aren't up to snuff yet. The flare still is a bit crooked and not good 90 degrees offset from tube.

I made a few observations in areas that I think are holding me back.

1. I was using one of those mini tubing cutters. The little cutting wheel cuts at a slant.
I am switching to a better quality small pipe cutter I have in my tool cabinet.

2. When you crank down the yoke from the flaring kit, the tapered point wobbles when it presses into the brake line tube
I mean the thing really has significant play. And it is a brand new kit. I am the first user. So I'll hold the tapered point in place
while I crank the yoke.

3. I am cutting small lengths of practice tubing from a 25 foot roll of coiled brake line. So it already has some curve bent in. What is the best way to straighten out rolled pliable poly steel brake line.......with hand tool ?
 
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I practiced brake line flaring again tonight. I decided not to post a pic yet because....well.....to be honest, my flares just aren't up to snuff yet. The flare still is still a bit crooked and not good 90 degrees offset from tube.

I made a few observations in areas that I think are holding me back.

1. I was using one of those mini tubing cutters. The little cutting wheel cuts at a slant.
I am switching to a better quality small pipe cutter I have in my tool cabinet.

2. When you crank down the yoke from the flaring kit, the tapered point wobbles when it presses into the brake line tube
I mean the thing really has significant play. And it is a brand new kit. I am the first user. So I'll hold the tapered point in place
while I crank the yoke.

3. I am cutting small lengths of practice tubing from a 25 foot roll of coiled brake line. So it already has some curve bent in. What is the best way to straighten out rolled pliable poly steel brake line.......with hand tool ?
1. Yes, you need to use a quality tubing cutter and take your time with it. It makes getting a good square cut easier, which is important for any flaring. I tried a Pittsburgh cutter from Harbor Freight and a Performance Tool before moving on. Now I use a Rigid and a Lennox.

2. Yeah, those wobbly points are supposed to be a sort of “self-centering” deal, but really I think they just make things more difficult. I still have the AZ loaner flare tool that I got back 20-ish years ago. They work, but there are better flaring tools. I have a better flaring tool but I keep the old one around because sometimes it’s what works.

3. They do make tubing straighteners, they usually are a configuration of 5 rollers. I’ve never bought one, just straighten the tube by hand as best I can. Space for tools is at a premium for me so I’ve been forced to be selective.

Flares don’t have to be 100% perfect to work, as long as it’s reasonably close they should still seal. When I finally spent the coin to buy a lever style flare tool, I discovered that factory perfect flares were achievable on a consistent basis with a lot less struggle. The catch is, the lever flare tool is around $200. If you’re not doing a fair amount of flares, that’s a hard one to justify.

Ni-copper brake line is easier to bend and flare over steel line. It’s also more expensive. And there’s a lot of fakes. True Ni-copper line is non-magnetic.
 
I can't justify buying an expensive brake flaring tool. I was hoping to get that new brake line flared and plumbed in this weekend.
I'll make those adjustments to my technique we discussed. And then I'll see if I can nail it this weekend. Moving forward........I will only use the
Nickel Copper brake line.
 
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Oh Geez......Through all these practice runs I forgot to use lubricant !
Is that part of the problem ?

I watched a YouTube guy using anti-seize lubricant.
 
Oh Geez......Through all these practice runs I forgot to use lubricant !
Is that part of the problem ?

I watched a YouTube guy using anti-seize lubricant.
I've never used lubricant. If I ever decide to use some, it will not be anti-sieze. That stuff is miserable to clean up. A little wheel bearing grease should be fine.
 
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I've never used lube either. I don't think it's necessary.
 
Yeah, I’ve never used anything to lube the tube or flaring stuff, but I would use some oil, grease or petroleum jelly if I did. I’m not a fan of the aluminum anti-seize at all and would never consider it for something like this. I have some high-temp copper anti-seize, but that’s also not something I would consider using for this. Anti-seize is for threaded things, not lubrication.
 
Ok. Good to know.
I was also wondering why the guy in the YouTube instructional video uses anti-seize lubricant for this purpose.
 

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