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Intake questions....


will cbxer55 i think some of your prob is with the jet chip i have seen them cause porbs with the ranger pcm's, i like Unichip u can have custom programs made time and time again, say u buy it and u r all stoke, will then u go out and get headers and cold air intake they can make up a new program for the new addons. it great. Hell i took the stock air box and cut the low peace front out and then polished my MAF and TB i dont see putting out 200 to 300 buck for the air intake when my TB is the size of a 20oz coke bottle top lol but im working on doing the 5.0L explore swap on it hehe with some dana 80s front and rear and i do have an np208 in the shop i could put on it lol (dam thing Weights more then the hole truck) lol
 
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will cbxer55 i think some of your prob is with the jet chip i have seen them cause porbs with the ranger pcm's, i like Unichip u can have custom programs made time and time again, say u buy it and u r all stoke, will then u go out and get headers and cold air intake they can make up a new program for the new addons. it great

Actually I removed the chip about a onth ago, problem still persists. So it happens, with or without the chip. And yes, I dis-connect the negative terminal anytime I am fiddling with anything electronic, including all sensors.

ECM has been re-set god-knows-how-many-times, all to no avail.

Apparently, since starting fluid solves the problem, it is a fuel problem. But since I replaced all the sensors and the fuel filter, what else is left? 6 to 64 psi fuel pressure is just about perfect, running or not. Coil pack is about one year old, as are the wires.

I'm stumped. But since ether seems to work, at least for now I have a solution.

Oh yeah, battery shows 12.2 volts cold and 13.9 running. And that is a seven year old battery. Cranking power is not an issue, cranks very enthusiastically.

HAVE ETHER, WILL TRAVEL! :D
 
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what sensor did u replace, and can u get a "know" good working pcm, i sounds like the injectors r not fired at start up which can be a bad pcm
 
what sensor did u replace, and can u get a "know" good working pcm, i sounds like the injectors r not fired at start up which can be a bad pcm

1. Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
2. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
3. Idle Air Control Motor.
4. DPFE.

I checked the injectors with a NOID light, no problem.
 
ok u need to pull the MAF and clean it, as a FORD TECH i have seen this time and time again and my little brother is a TOYOTA TECH and he sees it all the time the oil used in the AIR FILTER will soak the MAF sensor and cause all the probs u have listed. and to the two engineers, both r right, but For a Ford MAF its not velocity meter its AIR Density which is = to air temp, (hot air is Less Dense which = lease Volts to keep wire hot/Cooler air is More Dense which = More Volts to keep Wire hot). If u clean it and still have the prob go get and diff MAF out of junker or a friends 3.0L to test to see if the sensor is bad, u can burn them out over oiling the filler


Bad Kitty Engineering (B.K.E.)
Owner: Whitney

Sorry, it isn't air density! How does opening the throttle plate change the air density?
 
The maf is not affected by air speed. The air speed is constantly changing as the engine speeds up and down. It measures air mass, probably why it is call a mass airflow sensor. The replacement of the intake system to a K&N style filter, and the intake piping are done at dealers as factory options. They do not change the maf when they do this.:)shady
 
The maf is not affected by air speed. The air speed is constantly changing as the engine speeds up and down. It measures air mass, probably why it is call a mass airflow sensor. The replacement of the intake system to a K&N style filter, and the intake piping are done at dealers as factory options. They do not change the maf when they do this.:)shady


Shady AIRFLOW is the operative term!!!!

As you said, the air speed (velocity) changes with the throttle plate opening (and engine speed), and if the intake diameter is larger, the air velocity will decrease due to the same airflow.
 
Shady AIRFLOW is the operative term!!!!

As you said, the air speed (velocity) changes with the throttle plate opening (and engine speed), and if the intake diameter is larger, the air velocity will decrease due to the same airflow.
Never said it didn't. But it does not affect the operation of the engine as the sensor is measuring mass:)shady
 
Never said it didn't. But it does not affect the operation of the engine as the sensor is measuring mass:)shady


Sorry shady, just like density, the air mass stays constant, the AIRFLOW is what changes.


See if you understand this Shady.......If you can understand it, you will see opening the throttle plate doesn't change AIR MASS, so the MAF sensor measures AIRFLOW:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/molecular-mass-air-d_679.html


This is the first sentence in the link following:

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor directly measures the amount of air flowing into the engine.


http://www.freeautomechanic.com/maf-mass-air-flow-sensor.html
 
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You folks who keep sticking to your velocity through the MAF seem to forget one thing. Look at the entire intake, from the MAF to the throttle body. The MAS is 3.0 diameter, as is the throttle body. The tube is "pinched down" in between the two. The velocity of the airflow does not increase until it hits the "pinched down" segment, which is well after it passes through the MAS.

Therefore the airflow the MAS sees is the same, no matter what diameter the tube is in between. All a 3.0 in tube does is keep the diameter the same for the full length, instead of "pinching" it down in between. As far as the airflow into the throttle body, once it leaves the "pinched down" segment and hits the three inch segment again, guess what? It slows down again.

I personally feel the only reason the"pinched down" segment exists at all is for fit. To gain some clearance for the alternator pulley, as the three inch pipe gets pretty close. You have to make some pretty fine adjustments to keep the alternator pulley from hitting the tube.

Also a "pinched down" tube reduces the amount of noise transferred through to the filter. A three inch pipe with a cone filter on the end does sound pretty cool. A lot of things on vehicles are designed by "Group Think". And that usually leaves a lot to be desired.

I have run my vehicle with a three inch tube, and replaced the stocker a few times. Every time I put the stocker on, I can feel the power loss. The stocker gives a bit more low end power, whereas a three inch tube lets it rev higher due to less resistance. Guess what? The 3.0 LIKES TO REV. And a three inch tube lets it do just that, way better than the stock POS intake.

If I did not need mine for the occassional trouble-shooting, I would have tossed it in the BIG round open top container long ago. And basically it has not really even helped on trouble-shooting.

Anyone want to buy a 1998 3.0 stock intake? Because it is junk! :D
 
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mass is = to density with out with out mass u have no density if i have to teach yall physics im going to have to be paid for it
 
If hes running the stock MAF it wouldn't matter if he was using colverts for his tubing before and after; the cross sectional area of the MAF (where the hot wire is) has remained unchanged.

Flow in has to equal flow out. The engines pumping has not changed; the MAF cross sectional area has not changed, so why would velocity at the throat of the MAF change, it hasn't.

The velocity will be different outside of MAF but the sensor could care less about that.
 

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