Instrument cluster bulbs, LED's?

[James Morse]

I see LED's listed instead of the regular 1494 bulbs. Can I use these? Wouldn't that be better, since they probably would never burn out? Given the hassle of replacing them, I was going to just do them all even though I"m missing like 1 or 2 only. I got the "Silverlight" 1494's which are supposed to be whiter, but LED's would be better yet, don't you think? Has anyone done this?

 

[xsaylr]

I recently did, but now I have a parasitic draw. Followed troubleshooting directions which had me pull all fuses and look for a big drop, and got 1 when I pulled the instrument panel fuse. This was just tonight, so I don't know anything for sure yet

 

[James Morse]

Let me know what you find out about that. Seems like if dash lights are off you should have zero draw from them. Something sounds weird?

 

[xsaylr]

Let me know what you find out about that. Seems like if dash lights are off you should have zero draw from them. Something sounds weird?

Yeah, battery is fully recharged, almost thinking about just reconnecting everything, to see if it drains again. Also just added an independent foglight circuit, but I'm not seeing 12V at the relay unless the rocker switch is on, so it seems fine

 

[James Morse]

I'd think there are some draws even with truck off, like theft system maybe? Some other guys on here will know more. You'd have to see what is on the same fuse as the led dash lights. How do they look (brightness, color), and what was the bulb number you used? Seems like the dash lights themselves should not draw any current at all when off.

 

[RonD]

Yes, Ranger spec is 0.03 to 0.07amp draw key off doors closed and after 30-40minutes
That's 30-70mA

After 30-40 minutes because the GEM module "stays awake" until its timer detects no activity and it will then turn off the Battery Saver relay
If you have an under hood light pull out the bulb for the Amp Draw test

The 30-70mA draw is for computer memory, Radio clock/memory, and Keyless entry(fobs) it needs to be "awake" 24/7 so you can lock and unlock with Fob

 

[xsaylr]

Yes, Ranger spec is 0.03 to 0.07amp draw key off doors closed and after 30-40minutes
That's 30-70mA

After 30-40 minutes because the GEM module "stays awake" until its timer detects no activity and it will then turn off the Battery Saver relay
If you have an under hood light pull out the bulb for the Amp Draw test

The 30-70mA draw is for computer memory, Radio clock/memory, and Keyless entry(fobs) it needs to be "awake" 24/7 so you can lock and unlock with Fob

This is a 97, ain't no fob! But yeah ill bet everything else applies. The multimeter was showing 25.4 throughout most of the fuse testing, so even if there was a big drop w the gauge fuse, it still appears to be within spec. Not to mention the LEDs should draw less, if anything. This is a good 1, that's why i think I'm just gonna reconnect everything w a fully charged battery and see what it does this time. Be so nice if this just went away, lol, but I'm sure I won't b so lucky

 

[xsaylr]

The LEDs are white. Just got this truck a few weeks ago and never saw the dash color w incandescents in, but it's a light blue now. Looks like I need to revisit anyway for the lower right corner

 

[RonD]

The most common car battery failure is "self draining", can happen with new battery but more common on battery 4 years and older, max life on car batteries is 5 to 6 years
Batteries CAN last longer, just don't count on it, 6 years is the HIGH average for expensive battery

To test for self draining disconnect either battery cable
Test battery voltage, WRITE IT DOWN
Come back after 4 hours, longer is better i.e. overnight

Re-test voltage should be EXACTLY the same, if lower battery is self draining

12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3 volts is a 5 to 6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2volts or lower is a "done" battery will not start engine on the next cold morning, "click, click, click, ect......"

 

[xsaylr]

The most common car battery failure is "self draining", can happen with new battery but more common on battery 4 years and older, max life on car batteries is 5 to 6 years
Batteries CAN last longer, just don't count on it, 6 years is the HIGH average for expensive battery

To test for self draining disconnect either battery cable
Test battery voltage, WRITE IT DOWN
Come back after 4 hours, longer is better i.e. overnight

Re-test voltage should be EXACTLY the same, if lower battery is self draining

12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3 volts is a 5 to 6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2volts or lower is a "done" battery will not start engine on the next cold morning, "click, click, click, ect......"

There is a new battery in it, I immediately noticed that. Dude I got it from I think somehow made himself middle man and "helped" an old cpl sell it. He was a snake, we'll leave it at that. Wouldn't surprise me if there had been a known electrical drain prior and he didn't mention it. But yeah checking the battery is definitely worth a look, I'll check into it. In the few minutes before writing this, I started it for the 1st time n a few days. Has a really dated Kenwood deck n it. I was messing w it and it's really flaky. Was difficult to get it to come on, then either delays or no response from pushing other buttons. Going to disassemble the dash again n recheck all connections

 

[xsaylr]

Kinda surprised that the dash LEDs aren't brighter. Don't get me wrong, they're bright enough, I just thought they'd be brighter. Back to my original statement, I really don't believe the LEDs had anything to do w that battery draining. I'd say they're a safe bet. 1 seemed to be out in the lower right corner. Tried replacing it but no change. Doubt it's the bulbs, I'll try cleaning the contact points another day

 

[Ram50Ron]

Kinda surprised that the dash LEDs aren't brighter. Don't get me wrong, they're bright enough, I just thought they'd be brighter. Back to my original statement, I really don't believe the LEDs had anything to do w that battery draining. I'd say they're a safe bet. 1 seemed to be out in the lower right corner. Tried replacing it but no change. Doubt it's the bulbs, I'll try cleaning the contact points another day

Resurrecting this thread to ask if you got your lower right bulb problem figured out. And clarifying if you used white LED's only that just appear blueish because of the guage faces. Thanks!
Ram50Ron

 

[xsaylr]

Yep used all white bulbs, and everything lights up evenly now. Pretty positive the battery drain was caused by the old radio. Since replacing it, no more probs. Later on replaced the switches in both doors while trying to get the dome light working right. Well, first tried cleaning the old ones, but never worked quite right. Used LEDs in the dome, and it works fantastic now, almost too bright. Chime works now too.

 

[rubydist]

I put led lights in an instrument cluster once on one of my older Rangers. They were so blasted bright I couldn't stand it, and even though they were "dimmable" they didn't dim much at all. I hated it so much I tore the dash apart again and put incandescent bulbs in there again.

 

[4x4prepper]

I put LED 194s in my 1985 B2 and like them. Make sure you get bulbs that have full contacts that will work either way you insert them.