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Installing limit straps on radius arms??


I have mine down to the pivot brackets, then going down the back side of each beam.
 
you can not easily fit 35 spline axles, you can go 30 spline though which is huge.......theres allot of ways to go bigger with a d44. pro and con are dictated by end use for the most part. i was busting internally with the d35 more often then anywhere else at the end. the d35 is not equal to a 44 in axle shaft strength by a large margin.

He probably was comparing stock shafts to stock. No doubt upgraded shafts on a D44 would have more to offer once that stupid neckdown crap is eliminated.
Though if you start throwing coin at a D44, you may want to weight that against just getting a D60.

Also, Skyjacker makes a good stainless braided brake hose (DOT). They're a bit more $$$ though.
 
the long long skyjackers are the ones i see fail. anything longer then the 1 tons seem to take a beating at the ends busting them off in rough conditions. if they were restrained at multiple points i am sure they would be ok.

but that causes its own issues.
 
I had 2 sets of Skyjacker braided lines fail on me.
 
Well, I ended up moving the mounting to the frame as seen in the pics. I massaged the fixed "metal" end to work throughout all ranges of travel. I have yet to drive it but feel confident this will work. I also ended up using the '91 f-350 hoses part numbers follow. Thanks alot guys, I do look foward to helping when an where I can on here.
Shawn

TRU-TORQUE- H381186
TRU-TORQUE- H381185
 

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^^
That looks a lot better :icon_thumby:



I had 2 sets of Skyjacker braided lines fail on me.

:icon_confused:

I've been running Skyjacker's hoses for over 15 years now, never once have had an issue (but I have had issues with Procomp's and one other's... Superlift's maybe but not sure). The SJ hoses appear to be made from far better quality materials too.

Were they maybe the very early SJ hoses that had the banjo fittings at the wrong angle for the hose to have proper slack? (you had to grind a corner down for it to fit correct)?
 
^^
That looks a lot better :icon_thumby:





:icon_confused:

I've been running Skyjacker's hoses for over 15 years now, never once have had an issue (but I have had issues with Procomp's and one other's... Superlift's maybe but not sure). The SJ hoses appear to be made from far better quality materials too.

Were they maybe the very early SJ hoses that had the banjo fittings at the wrong angle for the hose to have proper slack? (you had to grind a corner down for it to fit correct)?




dude....your the mr meagi(dont know how to spell that right) of superhero fix shadetree wheelin. i remind myself i always run with v8 power liberally and usually ignorantly applied just for the noise of it...and simply offer a different point of view on that premise alone.




but those skyjacker lines at speed hard hitting moguls is where i seen the most problems. and with the longer lines when hammering through the goo, branches and shit have taken out more then braklines for me as well.


i ran this way more then any other with stx or e series lines and tweaked the hardline to dial it in where i wanted it.

2167330099_large.jpg





no issues with stock bucket limited travel either

2167330159_large.jpg
 
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Now, before I started a new thread, i am looking to build a 1997 D-35 set up from scratch. I have the well used unit (read 150k mile Massachusetts) and know the soft parts are coming out. This means U-joints, seals and brake rebuild. I also plan to strip and POR-15 the whole TTB. Here's the dig.
I have thought of reusing my D-28 radius arms due to the '85 swap bar/shock mount I am familiar with. If i want I can get 2 brand new arms (1997 factory stock) for $65 each, and build the complete assembly while driving the D-28. The shock mounts different and the sway bar mounts it do not look to be retrofitted in...
Opinions?
 
dude....your the mr meagi(dont know how to spell that right) of superhero fix shadetree wheelin. i remind myself i always run with v8 power liberally and usually ignorantly applied just for the noise of it...and simply offer a different point of view on that premise alone.
I'm not entirely sure what you're getting at there (mr meagi isn't ringing a bell for me), but no doubt I do always try to do things the correct way (or at least in such a way shit's not gonna come apart on me).
On my Ranger I had to grind a corner off the SJ banjo block otherwise the line would pull tight and threaten to bust the line off at full droop:
caliperfitting.jpg


When time came to buy the same lines for my BII, Skyjacker had corrected the issue.
I also keep them zip-tied to one of the coil spring windings so they aren't flopping around at all (rubbing against the tire, etc.).



I have thought of reusing my D-28 radius arms due to the '85 swap bar/shock mount I am familiar with. If i want I can get 2 brand new arms (1997 factory stock) for $65 each, and build the complete assembly while driving the D-28. The shock mounts different and the sway bar mounts it do not look to be retrofitted in...
Opinions?

You can use the '85 arms on the D35 no problem. The later trucks (D35) have an in-front-of-axle sway bar which can be retrofitted as well. The swaybar endlink brackets on the axle should fit fine with the '85 RAs (they just slip over the axle & RA).
 
the karate kid teacher...pat moritta i think is/was his name.

finesse has allot to do with success and low parts breakage. that and luck.




this guy seems to be saying the old style arms with the double shear mount and retainer for the inner rear sway bar is not available. and he is right

thats a good thing because that swaybar sux.


consider swapping to the front style so its easy to disconnect.

or relocate the radius arm bracket and run 150 arms. or make some nice arms.

stock arms suck on stock height trucks.
 

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