Installing LED'S.

[DayDay]

I bought three blue LED lights to add to the interior of my truck (One under the the dash of the drivers side & Another on the passengers side, then the third in my cup holder) but I don't know anything about it. I've been doing some research and I was wondering if I really need to use an In-Line fuse?

Also could I just run ALL three of them off of my 12v adapter in the dash or all three from the cig lighter wires?

Any help would be greatly appreciated :]

Thanks!

 

[flyingbrick]

I bought three blue LED lights to add to the interior of my truck (One under the the dash of the drivers side & Another on the passengers side, then the third in my cup holder) but I don't know anything about it. I've been doing some research and I was wondering if I really need to use an In-Line fuse?

Also could I just run ALL three of them off of my 12v adapter in the dash or all three from the cig lighter wires?

Any help would be greatly appreciated :]

Thanks!

Fuse every electric thing you add!! No matter what, if they have resisters you can wire it off the dash lights or what ever you want.

 

[DayDay]

hmm

How do I know if it has resisters in it?
Would a pic help?
Thanks for the reply :]

 

[Roadkill]

They usually will say if they have resistors installed. Ones made for automotive typically will have the resistors. Standard electronics LED's are rated at only 5V. If they are standard 5V LED's you can connect them all in series with a fuse wherever you connect to power. Automotive ones (5V LED with resistor) made to run on 12V you will have to run in parallel.

Basically: W = fuse
- = wire
(led) = led (uh... duh. LOL)

Series....
+12V --W-----(led)--------(led)-------(led)-------- Ground

Parallel....

+12V --W------(led)--------Ground
| |
|--(led)---|
| |
|--(led)---|

Those are your basic circuits. LED's with resistors installed 'usually' already have leads (wires) and some heat shrink tubing installed on them. It all depends on who made them. If there is any paperwork with them it should say how they need to be wired.

 

[Ranger SVO]

We add resistors to reduce the current through the LED. Typically, with most LED's bought at Radio Shack, a 1K to 1.5K resistor will do the trick.

 

[DayDay]

 

[Roadkill]

By the coke bottle shaped bulge under the heat shrink that LED already has a resistor added in series. It is most likely a direct wire to 12V. Even 5V LED's require resistors if they are alone in a 5V circuit just to keep them from burning out.

I take it there was no documentation for them at all? Where did they come from, out of curiosity?

Final Resort!!!!!
You can test it VERY quickly with a 9V battery. If when you connect it the LED is SUPER bright it's set up for 5V. If it hardly comes on at all or doesn't, then it's set up for 12V. Just be careful, if it is set up for 5V you can still blow the LED depending on the resistor that was put in there.

 

[DayDay]

I tested one today. I connected it directly to the battery and grounded it somewhere in my truck (Still need to find a permanent spot ) It worked fine. I will go buy a switch tomorrow and go from there.

I'm still looking for a spot to drill through the firewall in my truck. I'm scared I might mess something up. Can anyone recommend a decent spot? I'm clueless.

Oh an to answer you're question roadkill I bought them from a friend who had a few extra ones. So no documentation was included.

 

[Roadkill]

You can use one of the spots already in the firewall that have wiring running through them. It's easier than drilling a new hole. Or you can tap off of the feed going to the fuse box as well.

Glad to hear they work fine on 12V. They should look really nice once you get them installed.

 

[DayDay]

You can use one of the spots already in the firewall that have wiring running through them. It's easier than drilling a new hole. Or you can tap off of the feed going to the fuse box as well.

Glad to hear they work fine on 12V. They should look really nice once you get them installed.

Thanks for the help :]
I will try to get them in today. I will post some pics too

 

[Roadkill]

Post a night shot. I'd love to see how they look in the dark. They should have a nice glow to them.

 

[DayDay]

Okay last question. I only need 1 fuse for all three lights right?

 

[Roadkill]

If you run them all off of the same feed then a fuse on the feed is all you need.

 

[DayDay]

Okay I just bought the in-line fuse holder. It has pretty thick wires so I don't know if that will work....

It says it's an HHN In-Line Fuse Holder for 1/4" x 1 /1/4" glass fuses #12 Lead wire, 30A Max and it includes an AGC-30a Fuse.

I also got my switch which also blows blue :]

Controlls accesories to 240 watts says use only in circuits of 20 amps and 12 v or less?

Don't I need some extra wire too? to run from the + Battery Connection to the In-Line fuse then from the In-Line fuse to the switch which will be in my center console then I hook up my three + positive ends to the switch then run the black ground wires to somewhere under my dash with steel? Correct?
So do you think this stuff will work?

 

[flyingbrick]

Okay I just bought the in-line fuse holder. It has pretty thick wires so I don't know if that will work....

It says it's an HHN In-Line Fuse Holder for 1/4" x 1 /1/4" glass fuses #12 Lead wire, 30A Max and it includes an AGC-30a Fuse.

I also got my switch which also blows blue :]

Controlls accesories to 240 watts says use only in circuits of 20 amps and 12 v or less?

Don't I need some extra wire too? to run from the + Battery Connection to the In-Line fuse then from the In-Line fuse to the switch which will be in my center console then I hook up my three + positive ends to the switch then run the black ground wires to somewhere under my dash with steel? Correct?
So do you think this stuff will work?

30A, that’s a HUGE fuse for 3 LEDs I’d be using like 5-10A depending on what they draw.
If you find you need more wire any auto parts or hardware store should have what you need, just make sure it is either automotive grade and/or really flexible, And at the very least get crimp-on connectors, don’t twist-n-tape.