Sure, John.
Go to NAPA.
Buy two camber kits (2 bolts per kit). I believe I paid $23/kit.
I wish I could remember the size of the OEM bolts and nut. I know I had the wrenches, so they are <23mm.
The kicker is difficulty of bolt removal, squirt 'em with PB Blaster. I was replacing my UCAs anyway but I did use a crowbar and a deadblow hammer to position the new UCA/bushings. They wedged in there tighter than what came out, naturally. You should be trying to keep yours from moving at all.
In your case, it sounds like a simple bolt removal and install, so do each one at a time. Once the nut and locator plate are off, rotate the bolt head with the wrench while you push the threaded end back through. Helps to have a short drift to tap on, but there isn't much room.
On the DS aft(?) bolt, there are brake hoses clipped directly in the way of bolt removal, so you have to be careful to unclip those and move them as needed.
So, you'll need a jack, jackstands, lugnut wrench, wrenches, sockets /ratchet, common screwdriver, hammer, drift, etc. Take off the front tires and remove the splash guards for access. Although they are visible, I just can't see you doing it from under the hood. I had my fenderwell liners out, making access easy.
If that truck has never had LBJs replaced, it's a sure bet they are shot. List gets way longer for that.
This may help:
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleI...pping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528018f129
Once you get it jackstanded, I'd position the floor jack under the lower a-arm to keep weight on the torsion bars so the UCA doesn't move when you pull the bolt. Adjust jack pressure to ease bolt removal. You are obviously going to get it aligned (no other reason to do this job, eh?), but there's no sense letting it get all out of whack for the drive to the shop. Tires wear quick.
Good luck. I don't think you'll have any problem.