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Installing Ball Joints


tedrisch

Active Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
32
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
I'm getting ready to install new upper and lower ball joints on my '99 Ranger. Does anyone know if I will need to compress the spring to do this? Or can I just use a hydraulic jack to releive/add spring pressure to fit the spindle back in?
 
Thanks, I saw that link in a previous thread you posted- very helpful! It says that he uses a rtatcheting tie down strap to pull the upper and lower control arms together- I want to be prepared with a coil spring compressor just in case I mess up. I am under the impression however if I keep the hydraulic jack in place throughout the operation, it should keep everything together. I guess i'm just not sure if the pressure of the coil spring will raise the whole truck up when the spindle is popped off. I found another helpful write up by "MazdaRangerGuy" on FTE:

Jack it up under the lower control arm.. this will keep everything in place and you won't need to remove the coil spring.

Remove the wheel, and then take the tie rods loose from the steering knuckle (if you turn the wheels left/right with the engine off it will suck air into the power steering and cause a nasty vibration... by taking the tie rod off first you won't have to worry about this happening)

Remove the steering knuckle.. also be sure to unplug the ABS sensor (if equipped)...

Remove the snap ring around the lower ball joint and hammer it out... position the new ball joint in it's place... tap lightly.. just enough to make it stay in place... start the castle-nut a few threads... put a 2X4 under the ball joint stud... lower the stud onto the 2X4 by lowering the jack slowly until you see the control arm start to compress the spring more...

Hammer on the control arm around the ball joint it and should slide in with each blow... when all the way in install snap ring and grease fitting. Jack vehicle back up under control arm and remove castlenut.

The upper ball joint should be replaced with the control arm assembly, unless it has already been replaced, in which you may be able to service the ball joint separately.. in which case go ahead and remove the two bolts and remove the control arm.. just pay attention how the offset washers are orientated... the left side can be a pain as the fuel lines get in the way of the bolts but if you hold your tongue right and get creative it can be done. Make sure the bolts are seated completely in the grooves before you torque them down (you'll see what i mean when you remove them).

Your right side upper control arm may be a two piece design, which makes replacement much much easier... only need to remove the outer part, unless the new part is a one piece. (you can still get the outer part through motorcraft.. don't know about the aftermarkets).

Reinstall steering knuckle... tighten ball joint nuts... reinstall tie rod ends... reinstall brake calipers... plug in abs sensors.. install cotter pins.. lube the grease fittings... reinstall wheel.. good to go.
 
Here are some pics of changing out the upper baljoint on my '99 2wd Ranger w/coils

I raised the lower control arm slightly to get the pressure off of the suspension and put a spare jackstand under the lug bolts to hold the spindle up so i wouldnt have to take off brake parts
102_0138.jpg


Sprayed all the bolts with PB Blaster
102_0127.jpg


Unhooked the Pinch Bolt, and it took a lot of swear words and a huge pry bar to get the upper balljoint stud out of the spindle
102_0137.jpg


Unbolt the cam bolts: be sure mark the alignment washers for re-installation!!!
102_0139.jpg


I tried to press out the balljoint with a press Autozone gave me and I guess i screwed it up and so i ended up just getting a whole new MOOG control arm with bushings and balljoint and the whole deal
102_0145.jpg


So basically just three bolts hold on the upper control arm and you can remove it without messing with brake parts. I installed the new one and made sure to tighten the cam bolts when the truck was sitting on the wheels on the ground and the alignment felt fine, but i have a lifetime alignment at a local shop, so i went ahead and got it lined up. Im not sure, but i think the old ball joint was so worn, it was causing the front of the truck to sit lower than the rear because it looks more level now. I could just be crazy.
 

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