Increase Payload on the cheap

[HarborBomber3000]

I love my new little truck, but it wasn't that hard to max out the suspension with my first trip today.

16 x 80 lbs bags of Quikcrete

The truck is rated to handle 1250 lbs.

I did a little reading. If I get the Explorer leafs, what else could I do cheaply? I just want to make sure that if I put 1,500 - 2,000 lbs in the back that I would still have a little suspension travel. This would only happen once or twice a year, and it's always spur of the moment. Never enough time to go grab a trailer.

I know it is hell on the axle, but what other bits could I add that would beef up the rear so that it doesn't sink as quickly and give me suspension travel instead of resting on the bump stops?

P.S. The new tires I got can easily handle the hypothetical loads I speak of. They just ride like crap.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Firestone air bags

 

[alaskan155]

explorer springs, airbags, explorer 8.8(narrow version of my f150 axle)

 

[85b2chopper]

old school coil over "load handler" shocks might be an idea as well, cheaper than airbags and as easy as changing shocks..

 

[86freebie]

then jethro you can put the 1 ton sticker on the side of your truck (i hear toyota sells those) and then when the light turns red quicker than you thought you can lay on those brakes that ARE going to fade away. and hopefully the person you t-bone and kill is someone you know. and if you live in this sue happy state of california hopefully someone will get you sent to prison for not JUST BUYing A 1-TON TRUCK in the first place. remember just becuase you can does not meen that you should.

 

[exbass94]

Do you have a 2wd? My 4wd Ranger has carried about 1300 lbs in the bed and it still had plenty of suspension travel. Maybe you can install 4wd springs, but you'd probably have some major rake. Air bags would probably best.

 

[Dusty_Ranger]

86freebie stuff it what he's asking isn't unreasonable if the truck can tow 5000-6000 pounds there is no reason he shouldnt be able to get the 2000 max payload he desires

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

86freebie stuff it what he's asking isn't unreasonable if the truck can tow 5000-6000 pounds there is no reason he shouldnt be able to get the 2000 max payload he desires

If he is towing more than about 1500lbs it is a good idea to have trailer brakes though because that is about the point where the truck brakes reach their limit.

I would assume the same brake capacity would apply to a load in the bed.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Wow.... Just wow....

Ok, I'm going to answer the OPs question since I've been down this road... some people actually buy a truck to use it for hauling....

4x4 Ranger springs will not lift your truck in the rear or increase the payload.

Air bags will work but are not cheap (you'll need the bags, brackets, and load controller with compressor).

I have thought about rigging up a set of overload leafs but it would require some fab work and honestly, after building my own leaf pack, I don't see that much of a need.

If you don't have a rear axle that has 10" drums, get one. You'll want drum brakes for hauling no matter what anyone says. Drum brakes don't stop you as quick as disks, but they handle heat WAY better (ever warp a rotor? how bout a drum?). Some 4x4s have a slightly larger master cylinder bore if you're thinking of upping your stopping capability. Unless I can find an even better solution than that, I'm doing that conversion and running DOT-4 brake fluid soon. It's overkill, but hey, why not error on the side of overkill.

Leaf packs.... Explorers are rated slightly higher than Rangers, IIRC, but not that much more because they're still designed not to ride harsh. They will lift the rear of a Ranger/Mazda pickup, however.

I wore out my Ranger leaf packs within a year or so of having the truck. After a couple years they were worn out so bad that I needed new tires and an alignment, but the springs in the rear had sagged bad enough that I couldn't get an alignment without fixing 'em. Around that time I managed to pick up a trac-locked 8.8" rear complete with shocks and leafs out of a 4x4 off a guy who was going to a 9" in his Ranger for $70. I decided that installing stock leaf springs were not the way to go, so I tore the leaf packs apart. I also got a set of leafs off a dodge that had bad spring eyes for free. Broke both sets of packs apart plus my old leaf springs. Wacked the eyes off the dodge main spring and placed it under the good Ranger main. Then added the longest Ranger leaf I had, then IIRC another shortened Dodge leaf and then another Ranger leaf, my intent being to keep the leafs as long as possible. I think I'm going to build a new pack for mine, however, and this time include putting a pack clamp on things to keep everything in line.

Other than that, it all worked great, ride was not compromised, it still rode nice and smooth, and actually I think if anything it increased handling slightly (I have no rear swaybar). I've had a LOT of weight in the bed with no problems either. I did have to use the shocks from a 4x4 Ranger, however, because the stock 2wd shocks only had to be compressed a half inch to bolt up, because 4x4s use 2" blocks between the spring and the axle, the shocks are a bit longer.

Over a ton of 2B limestone... stock springs.

After the custom leaf packs... not sure of exact weight but theres two motors (2.9L and 4.0L), A4LD auto trans, BW1354e transfer case, complete D-35 TTB front, complete 7.5" rear, spare axle shafts, two toolboxes (~100# total), Y-pipe, pushbar, radiator, misc small stuff, and an 80# bag of Portland Cement.

As you can see, it's sitting pretty level instead of laying way down in the rear.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you don't have a rear axle that has 10" drums, get one. You'll want drum brakes for hauling no matter what anyone says. Drum brakes don't stop you as quick as disks, but they handle heat WAY better (ever warp a rotor? how bout a drum?). Some 4x4s have a slightly larger master cylinder bore if you're thinking of upping your stopping capability. Unless I can find an even better solution than that, I'm doing that conversion and running DOT-4 brake fluid soon. It's overkill, but hey, why not error on the side of overkill.

Drums don't warp, they just fade to nothing...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Drums don't warp, they just fade to nothing...

You're thinking of regular brake fade. My point was that drums can take heat... enough heat that the fluid in the cylinder and lines begins to boil, causing brake fade... and still be ok. You run disk brakes that hard and you'll warp the rotor.

Thus my decision to run DOT-4 fluid, as it has a much higher boiling point.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You're thinking of regular brake fade. My point was that drums can take heat... enough heat that the fluid in the cylinder and lines begins to boil, causing brake fade... and still be ok. You run disk brakes that hard and you'll warp the rotor.

Thus my decision to run DOT-4 fluid, as it has a much higher boiling point.

In the back of a truck the point is moot anyway... you still have disks upfront which is where most of the stopping power comes from. Drums can take more heat, but they can't get rid of it.

I have towed more with my F-150 (7k+) than it is rated to tow on trailers without brakes 60+ miles, and all four discs are still just fine... and don't appear much larger than a RBV's.

 

[JohnPi]

If you don't have a rear axle that has 10" drums, get one. You'll want drum brakes for hauling no matter what anyone says. Drum brakes don't stop you as quick as disks, but they handle heat WAY better (ever warp a rotor? how bout a drum?). Some 4x4s have a slightly larger master cylinder bore if you're thinking of upping your stopping capability. Unless I can find an even better solution than that, I'm doing that conversion and running DOT-4 brake fluid soon. It's overkill, but hey, why not error on the side of overkill.

The reason that car manufacturers use disk brakes as an upgrade over drum brakes is not because of some *perception* of improvement. It's because the disk brakes are actually better. MAINLY because of their superior cooling ability. If you look at it from one stand point, you'd think the drums are superior because they have more surface area of contact between drums and shoes, but it's the fact that disks are much more efficient at dissipating heat that make them a better brake. Why do you think that the Explorers had a disk brake upgrade for the rear axle, and that people look for a disk brake setup?

Another key advantage of disk brakes is the linear application of force compared to drums. Doing a little research, you find that drum brakes have a tendency to increase their braking force without increased pedal pressure by the operator. This makes controlling drums more difficult. Disk brakes will only increase their force if you press the pedal down more.

The argument that drums are better because you can't warp the drum doesn't make sense either. The structural properties of a cylinder will by definition be better then a disk, but drums are suseptible to their own problems. In fact, I just had my drums turned three weeks ago, and there was a lot of uneven wear on the surface of the drum. Anecdotal for sure, but you ask if he ever warped a drum . . . it may not be warped but an uneven surface is an uneven surface, which means you're not getting optimal braking potential.

EDIT:

Good reference (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake)

 

[thoughtcriminal]

if you are going to take the time to put explorer springs in, you might be better off just going chevy full size springs. will hold a lot more weight. either way, your going to have some rake, so plan on lifting the front too.

one thing I'm suprised no one has mentioned, your ranger has a 7.5 inch rear. with that axle, you are not going to want to put a lot of weight in the back.

 

[Will]

A Ranger frame is strong enough for about anything. It's not sprung for it of course. I would add a standard length leaf into the pack rather than adding something like bags or whatever. It will be a little rougher but you won't have to keep fooling with it.

A Ranger axle is a semi-float--it's carrying the load on one little wheel bearing and the axle shaft. The one-ton Toyotas have a full floater--the axle shaft is only driving the wheel. The weight is carried on two larger bearings on a spindle. There's no comparison in strength. If you are going to pick one to overload, pick the full floater. It's safer overloading an F250 than a Ranger. If you bust a semi-float, the wheel is coming off. Like this F150 I saw go by my house last year. Here's a guy that thought an F150 with a flatbed was an F350.

Drum brakes are retarded. They are ovens. The brake linings are made of glue with friction material cast in. When they get hot the glue gets slick and you lose the friction. You have full pedal pressure, but the brakes aren't doing anything. Disk brakes do not have this problem.