In desperate need of help!!!


Joined
Sep 14, 2023
Messages
7
Points
1
City
Spokane WA
Vehicle Year
84
Transmission
Manual
I have a 88 ranger 2.9 engine in my 84 bronco ii. it has a horrible idle loop that kills it almost immediately at stop light when warm. Ive replaced the map sensor (multiple times), the ECU, distributor, egr sensor, and most of the wiring under the hood. when the map sensor is unplugged all my problems go away. So i checked the wiring and i have 5v between the positive and negative on the map and 100-104 hz on the signle wire at idle. The base timing is set to 12 and it has headers and a cold air just incase that helps. Ive been through 3 well known mechanics and im over 7 grand into this thing with not much to show for it. Please an ideas you guys have will help immensely. Thank you

Also now that im thinking about it. It has 140 +/-4 psi on all cylinders and has 38 psi of fuel pressure. Also it has 20+ on the vaccume gauge.
 
Last edited:
Plastic hose running to the map leaking?

Put your finger on one end and blow in the other. Any pressure loss means its bad
 
First things first - stop replacing things until you know they're bad. Test/diagnose. Spending money and time replacing good parts is just lightening your wallet and increasing your frustration.

What does the ECM detect when you run the self tests?
 
/\ Like he said. And "diagnosis" doesn't mean having the knobheands at Autozone scan it.
 
Also curious...you said its an 88 2.9. Only 86/87 had EGR's, and you said you replaced the EGR sensor.

If it has an EGR system try checking the to see if the valve is stuck open.

Also...did you finish the swap and it ran like shit? Or did you swap it, it ran good, now it runs like shit?
 
First things first - stop replacing things until you know they're bad. Test/diagnose. Spending money and time replacing good parts is just lightening your wallet and increasing your frustration.

What does the ECM detect when you run the self tests?
The codes i pulled today are 22 and 10
 
I got those from a 80s ford obd1 tester if that makes any difference.
 
Also curious...you said its an 88 2.9. Only 86/87 had EGR's, and you said you replaced the EGR sensor.

If it has an EGR system try checking the to see if the valve is stuck open.

Also...did you finish the swap and it ran like shit? Or did you swap it, it ran good, now it runs like shit?
I meant 02 sensor i just completely blanked lol. Also it never ran good and the people who i got the engine from gave me a new MAP sensor witch made me suspect they had the same problem.
 
Have you looked at the idle air control valve or checked the TPS voltage? If memory serves the TPS should be 1V at idle otherwise it's not going to go into proper idle control... With the IAC unplugged it should go to about 500rpm but still run.
 
Have you looked at the idle air control valve or checked the TPS voltage? If memory serves the TPS should be 1V at idle otherwise it's not going to go into proper idle control... With the IAC unplugged it should go to about 500rpm but still run.
It should be under 1v i believe.

it only runs shitty at idle?
 
its at .8v and yes it only runs shitty at idle and at a 1/16th to 1/8th throttle it boggs and jumps around in gear. It also has a small bog when you hit the gas.
 
The codes i pulled today are 22 and 10
There are three sets of codes - engine running, engine off, and stored codes. Which test did those come from?
 
They came from a koeo test. I haven’t ran a koer test yet but probably will tomorrow. Also today i cleaned every single ground to make sure it wasnt that.
 

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