I'm sure I got a short.

[Curious Hound]

Just guessing here, since I don't know for sure. But that phone may block certain things in order to keep data usage lower.

I'd have to look. But I don't think I'm using notifications for TRS. I just wait until I pull ot up in Chrome. Then I click on the little bell at the top to see my TRS notifications.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Okay thanks @Curious Hound my phone does have limited data.
I think I get an allotment of 4.5Gs of data a month.

So your most likely right.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So as of right now I don't really have any real up dates on my progress on my truck and reinstalling the transmission.

I'm pretty much at a stand still at this time.

I'm 50 years old and smart enough at this point in my life to wait on help to put the transmission up into place.

And my brother Andy ( who will be 52 this year. ) hasn't had enough of a opening in his schedule to climb on the ground up under my truck and help me put the transmission on to the jack and then help me manipulate it into place where it goes.

Once I get help doing that I can do everything else on my own.

Just thought I'd give you all that that info before I post another post asking a question about something totally different.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Now to that other question about something totally different.

I feel I should give a little backstory first.
Before I went to prison and when I did smoke I always used a Zippo lighter.
So when I got out of prison my brother gave me a Zippo lighter that needed some work done to it.
He didn't realize it was beyond my help.

I think someone tried to put a flint into the flint tube that was too big for the lighter and the flint tube itself.
If it's not a flint I don't know what it is.
Either way it is still in there to this day.
If I was to drill out the pen that holds the striker in place to move the striker out of the way, I probably could put something into the flint tube and push whatever's in the tube out.
The striker and the pen or rivet or whatever you want to call it that holds the striker in place are not in good shape either.

So that leads up to my question now.

Can anybody give me any advice on putting butane lighter fluid into my new butane lighter?

I bought a two pack of Zippo lighter insert replacements .
I also bought some Zippo lighter fluid at the same time.

When I open the package 1 of the Zippo lighter inserts was a regular Zippo lighter insert.

To my surprise the other Zippo insert was a butane insert.
Also in the package to my second surprise was a Zippo casing.

It's in other words I got a whole Zippo lighter along with 1 zippo lighter insert.

So today I bought some butane lighter fluid and tried to fill up the butane Zippo insert.

I turned the Zippo butane lighter insert upside down put the nozzle from the butane can into the little fill hole and push down on the can of butane.
I hear a little tiny hiss at first and after that I can't hear the butane going into the lighter or anything like that.

I held the can of butane down which should release the butane into the fill nozzle of the lighter.
I counted 30 Mississippi's which should be roughly 30 seconds.

I slowly raised the butane can up.
I heard a little hiss right as the nozzle was about to be removed from the fill hole.

I waited two full minutes afterwards.
Then I tried to light the lighter it did not light.
I did not hear any fluid when I held down the lighter Valve or whatever it's called either.

So I repeated the same process again.
And I got the same results.

Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong?
I appreciate the help in the advice thanks everyone.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Now to that other question about something totally different.

I feel I should give a little backstory first.
Before I went to prison and when I did smoke I always used a Zippo lighter.
So when I got out of prison my brother gave me a Zippo lighter that needed some work done to it.
He didn't realize it was beyond my help.

I think someone tried to put a flint into the flint tube that was too big for the lighter and the flint tube itself.
If it's not a flint I don't know what it is.
Either way it is still in there to this day.
If I was to drill out the pen that holds the striker in place to move the striker out of the way, I probably could put something into the flint tube and push whatever's in the tube out.
The striker and the pen or rivet or whatever you want to call it that holds the striker in place are not in good shape either.

So that leads up to my question now.

Can anybody give me any advice on putting butane lighter fluid into my new butane lighter?

I bought a two pack of Zippo lighter insert replacements .
I also bought some Zippo lighter fluid at the same time.

When I open the package 1 of the Zippo lighter inserts was a regular Zippo lighter insert.

To my surprise the other Zippo insert was a butane insert.
Also in the package to my second surprise was a Zippo casing.

It's in other words I got a whole Zippo lighter along with 1 zippo lighter insert.

So today I bought some butane lighter fluid and tried to fill up the butane Zippo insert.

I turned the Zippo butane lighter insert upside down put the nozzle from the butane can into the little fill hole and push down on the can of butane.
I hear a little tiny hiss at first and after that I can't hear the butane going into the lighter or anything like that.

I held the can of butane down which should release the butane into the fill nozzle of the lighter.
I counted 30 Mississippi's which should be roughly 30 seconds.

I slowly raised the butane can up.
I heard a little hiss right as the nozzle was about to be removed from the fill hole.

I waited two full minutes afterwards.
Then I tried to light the lighter it did not light.
I did not hear any fluid when I held down the lighter Valve or whatever it's called either.

So I repeated the same process again.
And I got the same results.

Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong?
I appreciate the help in the advice thanks everyone.

Sounds like you did it correctly. Sorry, I'm no help.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

So as of right now I don't really have any real up dates on my progress on my truck and reinstalling the transmission.

I'm pretty much at a stand still at this time.

I'm 50 years old and smart enough at this point in my life to wait on help to put the transmission up into place.

And my brother Andy ( who will be 52 this year. ) hasn't had enough of a opening in his schedule to climb on the ground up under my truck and help me put the transmission on to the jack and then help me manipulate it into place where it goes.

Once I get help doing that I can do everything else on my own.

Just thought I'd give you all that that info before I post another post asking a question about something totally different.

I've used rachet straps and a 2x4 above the transmission hole. Also a rachet strap from one frame rail to the other side. Maybe you can figure out a similar system using ratchets and blocking.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@alwaysFlOoReD The way I see some feedback is better then no feedback at all.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I started to write this reply last night.
I changed pages to look for a word I needed to spell and ran out of data.
So now I'm at my brother's using his wi-fi.

@alwaysFlOoReD I know I can put my transmission in all by myself if I really had to.

I don't know how much the transmission weighs but it's definitely not light.

When we took it out of my truck, I had a 3-ton floor jack underneath the truck with a 4x4 between the cup of the jack and the transmission.
My brother raised the jack up until the transmission and the motor were evenly level, then I told him to stop.

I then wiggled the nose of the transmission and pulled it at the same time and the bellhousing came loose from the block really easily.

After that I told my brother to slowly push the Jack under the truck as I slowly pulled on the nose of the transmission.
The transmission came away from block without any problem.

Once the transmission was back so far my 4x4 block hit the radius arm brackets.
At that point I slowly pushed the bell housing of the transmission up by hand while my brother lowered the jack and I used my other hand to reposition my 4x4 on the other side of the radius arm brackets.

Once I had the 4x4 repositioned and my brother had repositioned the jack underneath the 4x4 and I slid the transmission back farther onto the 4x4 and jack.

After that we lowered the jack at the same time we pulled the transmission towards the back of the truck and then in no time the transmission and 4x4 were sitting on top of the lowered jack.

Now I wrote all that to get to the point of in reversing the process once I have the transmission under the truck and the torque converter reinstalled in it, the Jack sits up about 2 and 1/2 or 3 in and then you got the height of the 4x4 that I will have to lift the transmission up onto.

It'd be a lot easier to do that with 2 people then it would be to do by myself.
Doing it by myself I would have to not only be lifting the transmission but also making sure that the 4x4 stays in position on the cup of the jack.
It's just way easier to do it with someone else's to help.

And with having help be less chances of me hurting myself by pulling a muscle ir twisting my back or anything.

 

[Curious Hound]

It's smarter to have help unless you have a really good transmission jack. Balancing on a floor jack can get sketchy.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I agree 100% @Curious Hound .

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I have an update.

Today my brother Andy was able to help me put my transmission up onto place.

It only has 3 bellhousing bolts in as of right now.
The crossmember is also up in place as well.
As of right now the transmission mount does not have no nuts on it.
And passenger side bolts don't have no nuts on them either.
The driver side does have a nut on it but it's not tight though.

So progress has been made.

 

[bobbywalter]

wellllll.....i been missing out.

 

[bobbywalter]

i know you hate hand cuffs.

but....when those just snap off....you just leave it unless you have 400 dollar drill bits or are real good with a smoke wrench.

may as well get brand new manifolds now.

in the rust belt....if the manifolds are good on the head, you just snap the flange bolts off and use the 10 dollar handcuffs...or split flange as it were.

it takes seconds.


i feel bad now.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@bobbywalter I couldn't drill out the exhaust manifold to y-pipe bolts while the exhaust manifold was still on the heads.
I spent about $120 on drill bits.
Once I got manifolds off and was able to mount them in a way that I could put pressure on the drill and use drilling fluid believe it or not I drilled the holes out with a $5 drill bit.

I did bust 3 bolts that go through the exhaust manifolds into the head on the driver side.
Two are still in the head.
I got two manifold gaskets on that side.
And no manifold gasket on the passenger side.

But I got the y-pipe studs / bolts drilled out.

I bought 3 of those handcuffs / split flange for my reassemble.
2 for the y-pipe to exhaust manifold.
And 1 for the catalytic converters to extension pipe joint.

Because all 3 of the flanges were rusted so bad they need replaced.

I'm not going to use the bolts and nuts provided with one of the flanges.
The 1 that goes from the catalytic converters to the extension pipe. Because that's where the bolts and nuts with the springs on them goes.
I bought new bolts, nuts and springs for that joint hoping I'll be able to use them.

I should have taken a lot more pictures during this process.
But the new phone I have camera sucks.
So I'll have to wait until I can afford a better phone and then have a better camera to take pictures when I'm doing stuff.

I got to go to work tomorrow with my brother Andy.
I'm hoping I'll get off work with enough time to do at least a little more to my truck then.

I got to try to remember how everything goes back together.

But progress is progress.

 

[bobbywalter]

yeah....think about what you just said.

downtime and money burned.

i have bits that will drill that out in the truck in a few minutes.

but i am not wasting time or life off of my bits like that for that situation with a driver level rust belt truck.

you just put the split flanges on both sides, buy the long ass all thread bolts and get it on.

that is why i feel bad. it was a fluke i looked because i remembered it was a solved issue and assumed it was our typical ridiculous banter.

my advice would have been to snap the bastards off and get the exhaust out asap....sometimes it is a sawzall aided event....but it should have been the quickest part of the job.

often when they fail, i pull the engine to do exhaust manifolds. total ass biter to deal with in situ.


just the time and frustration into the manifolds just to hog them out ... pisser.

alas...why the rust belt gets the handcuffs....and NOT any more of my time, blood, sweat and money than possible.