I'm stumped on my 91

[Wolfdriver]

Hi all. This is my first post here. I have over the years used this and similar forums for info when working on things and always found resolutions. This one has me stumped however. Sorry if I'm posting in the wrong spot but It is my daily driver and it starts inconsistently.
So here's the basics. I have a 91 with a 3.0 and 5 spd. It is the style with the icm on the radiator support making it a late 91 I believe. I bought her pretty cheap but knowing she needed a little work. I've had it for a few months now and have done the following.
Plugs, wires, coil, power steering pump, starter(with solenoid), fender mount solenoid, icm, new ground from battery to motor/frame, fuel filter, cleaned maf and throttle body both with specific sprays not all of these were relevant to starting issue.
A couple weeks ago I was omw to work, stopped for coffee and she wouldn't start when I went to leave, came back that night and she fired right up. Drove her home and put a starter on it as it had been whining and slow for a couple days and was expecting to make the repair. Fired up good. Drove it around for a couple days and then I hit the key and it clicked so I checked the fender mount by jumping it with a screwdriver. It clicked a cpl times then turned over but would not fire, got in cab and used key and it fired right up. Replaced fender mount and worked for a couple days. While I was at it I rand extra ground wire to motor from battery, as I had read on the forums poor ground could cause this condition. All was well. In the meantime while driving it I have noticed that it had less power than normal and would miss occasionally in low gear around 2k rpm holding steady. It acted like the timing was retarded slightly. I read also that the icm will cause it to run like timing is off up to 10 degrees so I replaced it as well. And while I was doing this I cleaned the maf thinking that could also cause the throttle hesitation I was experiencing. After these repairs it appeared to run better than it ever had since I'd owned it. Turned over fast and firm, fired right up, idled smooth, had slightly more power. I was stoked. Last night I went to fire it up and it just clicked. It did eventually turn over after clicking several times and fired but did it again omw back home. I am at a total loss. The only other thing I've read that would be reasonable is the crank sensor but was wondering of any other ideas before I go ripping the motor apart for this.
Sorry for such a long post but I always see you guys asking for more info on threads so I thought if just put it all out there. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[Spott]

One of the simplest things to check, and a common problem, is the positive battery cable and terminal. Make sure they're tight at all connections and that the cable isn't damaged.

After that, I'd check the solenoid in the starter, with a dual solenoid setup like you have they both have to work at the same time to make the starter crank.

Also, don't assume that a new
part is a guaranteed good part, some companies have poor QA and dud parts are becoming more common.

If it's not the cable or solenoids, you'll have to start testing things to narrow the problem down.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I lean towards cables and connections too. Don't forget the ground cable to starter. If the cables are original perhaps it's time to change them.

 

[Big Jim M]

I cannot remember having a solenoid click that wasn't AMP related. So even though you can find 12 volts at a particular location, can that location handle the amps needed to make the starter work, is the question of the day.
I don't see a new battery included in your post. If it is over three years old it wouldn't be in any of my rides.
Start by taking everything in the supply line off one by one and sanding & installing new grounding bolts/screws.
Including adding ground wires from fenders to engine block. Like the others I feel your problem is in having consistent amps to the starter.
Big Jim

 

[RonD]

'91 Ranger 3.0l will have a distributor so no Crank Position(CKP) sensor, CKP sensor was added when distributors were removed.

Your "no start" details seem to point only to starter motor not turning, so it wouldn't be an ignition or fuel issue in any case.
Starter motor engagement is strictly a voltage/amp issue, has nothing to do with computer, ignition or fuel system.

You have replaced Battery Ground cable so next step would be to replace battery to Starter Relay cable and then Starter relay to Starter Motor.

The "click" when key is turned to START means the Starter Relay is getting the 12volts from the Key switch, which closes it, the fact the starter motor doesn't turn is because not enough Amps are available thru the two larger cables connected to the Starter relay.

I have run into Battery's that had faulty internal terminals, it is extremely rare, but can not be overlooked if new cables don't fix the "click, click, click" no start.

After this type of no start has been solved the ignition and fuel system will have the correct voltage for starting.
If there is then a cranking engine but a no start, you can more easily check the TFI system.

 

[enjr44]

Exact same problem years ago. It was a cable. It looked good; but, had an internal fault. In my case it was the cable from the relay to the starter. However, any of the three cables (battery to relay, relay to starter, ground cable to engine) will cause the same fault.

Just an FYI, there has been a run of "new" bad fender solenoids out there. They click; but, won't pass the needed amps. New just doesn't mean good any more.

 

[Kayakcrazy]

Ditto on the battery cable. Just fixed an old 89 ranger we picked up for very cheap for a beat around. After tracing problems thought it was ignition, sensors, grounds. While looking at something else discovered the positive battery cable was bad. Looking at it you would never know. When we got it off several of the inner strands were broken. Couldn't carry the load. After all that time spent 5 minute fix took care of all the electrical problems.

 

[Mark_88]

EDIT: Im putting this first to clarify...as RonD has pointed out a few times...the part we usually refer to the solenoid on the fender is actually a relay...it just closes the circuit loop...even my Dad, who was a certified electrician, called it a solenoid (knowing that it was a relay but not confusing the issue)...

I'd third the cable...second the starter relay (on fender)...and first the wire from the ignition to the :S: terminal on the starter relay.

The little red boot that slips over the S terminal can become corroded and end up not giving the relay the power it needs to close the loop...and I've been stranded a few times (almost) just because of that stupid little boot...so one day I booted the boot and put on a eye connector that was fastened with a nut and no more problems...

That only applies if you do not get the click on the relay when you turn the key...and the fact that you can jump the posts to engage the starter...not being able to hear that click is a disadvantage of these forums...

 

[Spott]

EDIT: Im putting this first to clarify...as RonD has pointed out a few times...the part we usually refer to the solenoid on the fender is actually a relay...it just closes the circuit loop...even my Dad, who was a certified electrician, called it a solenoid (knowing that it was a relay but not confusing the issue)...

Technically, "solenoid" refers to the electromagnet/plunger mechanism, so a relay is composed of a solenoid and a switch. I think there may have been old starters that used a solenoid mechanically to move the gear over and engage the flywheel, but I've never seen one myself.

Just to muddy the waters further, the industrial electronics guys refer to a relay as a "contactor" and a circuit breaker as an "overload".

 

[Mark_88]

Technically, "solenoid" refers to the electromagnet/plunger mechanism, so a relay is composed of a solenoid and a switch. I think there may have been old starters that used a solenoid mechanically to move the gear over and engage the flywheel, but I've never seen one myself.

Just to muddy the waters further, the industrial electronics guys refer to a relay as a "contactor" and a circuit breaker as an "overload".

Yes, all kinds of throwbacks and naming conventions that can be traced to something else...

I remember my 62 Ford Galaxy had a starter with an actual solenoid mounted on it...the bendix spring and all that plunger stuff going on that my 16 year old mind was overwhelmed by...not to mention it had a generator as opposed to an alternator.

I don't miss that technology because it was big, heavy and usually required much more strength than I had at the time...

I really only wanted to clarify that but it will probably take a long time to fully change the terminology, but it doesn't matter too much unless someone happens to look at a schematic some day and say "Hey..." then it will start a bunch of and finally a bunch of

 

[Andy D]

You could probably run a modern engine on the exhaust fumes of a '62 Ford. My '62 was an F250. I have no idea what it got for MPG. Gas was about 30 cents a gallon at the time. Typical Ford, it had starter troubles.. I just went through wiring troubles with the new starter I put in. A new wire should help. The old one was leaking smoke

 

[Big Jim M]

cheaper now!

You could probably run a modern engine on the exhaust fumes of a '62 Ford. My '62 was an F250. I have no idea what it got for MPG. Gas was about 30 cents a gallon at the time. Typical Ford, it had starter troubles.. I just went through wiring troubles with the new starter I put in. A new wire should help. The old one was leaking smoke

That F 250 cost new about $2,000. I know, because I paid $2150. for a fully loaded 61 F 150. And the mileage was truly about 8!

I just purchased a loaded F 250 and paid over 20 times that amount. Now if you multiply $.30 by 20 you get $6.00. That should teach us all that gasoline is cheaper than it has ever been.

As a side note the new F 250 has way too many geegaws to suit me. I wanted a truck and I got a play toy.

Big Jim