spdcrazy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 1,007
- Age
- 37
- City
- Homer, alaska
- Vehicle Year
- mostly 86
- Transmission
- Manual
looking good james... keep it up!
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haha well njust scroll down a bit from here and you will see them on!
Yes sir! that was the first thing i did this mornin. worked out perfect first time through too!
This is the first ive ever heard of something like this. why did you trim it to begin with?
Well here are the beams/ radius arms and brackets all on the truck. i also busted the d44 knuckles off the old d44 beams so they will be ready to be put on the truck (not in any pics for today). I still need to get the steering all together but am waitin on a stock pitman arm from a fellow member. I also need to pick up a few more bolts and washers to get everything put back together (missing some bolts for the radus arm brackets and need bolts for the radius-to-beam connection) but wont be able to do that till tuesday since copperstate will be closed tomorrow.
One thing i did notice when settin up the radius arm brackets though dave. was that when i set the passenger side beam to 1/4-3/8" away from the driver side beam bracket bolt, then measured from the body mount rivet to the center radius-to-beam connecting bolt to set up the the driver side. The driver side had to be pulled back so far that the driver side beam would hit the bolt for the passenger side beam bolt on the beam to achieve the same measurement for the passenger side. So i jsut moved it a 1/2" forward to clear the bolt. Shouldnt hurt anything should it? also, without moving it forward, my wheel base on the driver side was 114" and the passenger was 115".
pics
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Sounds like you just have a case of common Ford Frame rack attack.. It will be fine how you have but if you want you can double check the measurments. Set the beams so there is 8" between the bottom of the frame and the top of the beam. Thats going to be your ruff estimated ride hieght. Then measure from the corner of the body mount to the center of the "alignment cam holes" to see what you come up with. Its looking good so far!!
looks way good..that threat kit is beautiful
haha thanks rob. Those are 4" wide fenders so even with a 6" i still wouldnt be able to cover the tire lol. Do they make a 6" in the old school style? i will not update my glass to a newer body style ranger as im goin old school body with new school under it.
Oh if any one knows of anybody sellin bed sides for i think 92 or older long bed ranger let me know. gunna need some to mock up when the cage starts
Its looking good! I do know a guy that makes a nice wide old school fender if you are interested. Also if you can try to find someone to trade you wheels. Look for a 15x7".
Shes finally startin to look like a racer! got the knuckles back and painted, rotors/hubs painted, put the new ball joints in the knuckles (gotta love harbor freight presses), put now wheel bearings and races in as well as new wheel bearing seals, all the beams and bracekts and tighten up into their perminate spot, and i alos made a cap for the back of the d44 spindle to keep dirt out. Just need to find out how the machined caps Dave was makin came outfor where the manual hubs use to be. Here are some pics.
spindles with old ball joints after sandblasting and paint
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spindles with new ball joints ( i love getting cost on parts at napa)
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cap i made with a washer and welded up the hole. put RTV under the washer as well as all around the out side after i tacked it on. yes its only tacked so if jsut for some god givin reason i need to take it off i can
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damn this thing is lookin cool! i just cant contain myself![]()
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Only issue i may have is she is 85 1/4" wide at ride height in the front. Racing specs say no more than 85"s so i may have to add some preload before tech to pass then take it back out.
Tomorrow is install of the swingset steering and add a bar to hold her up at ride height till i start the engine cage and can mount the coilovers. I honestly cant wait to start bendin some tube for this thing!!!
Order 2 thin jam nuts for the beams and your good to go.