ignition switch kaput?

[scoyote]

Just had my starter redone( grinding hard and producing a lot of heat --gear drive was toast)---i installed the motor and a new start switch--i'm on the correct terminals but when turning the key to "start"---i get zero-nothing at all. If i short the start switch i can start the engine. Is there an ignition circuit fuse? What might have happened here?--scoyote

 

[user111]

Try putting Transmission in Neutal if Auto
My switch got out of alienment on Auto Trans.

I have had a lot of Starter trouble and still do.
I replaced the Starter Solenoid with one from 1988 88 Ford F-150 Starter Solenoid
It does seem to pass more current and not like the can types.

The starter I now have is already sounding that its on its way to breakdown and I
just get a few months out of it, mostly I get about a year out of a starter.

I have run a heavy battery wire from the Starter to the ground on left front of engine, the grounding in these trucks is lacking.

I happen to come today to see how much of a job it is to change the ring gear, A Mechanic told me spacers will not work for starter, mine did not.
The front bearing on my starters is always damaged
The mechanic said if the ring gear is the wrong one it will make a grinding
starter and fast starter failures.
He works on Big Trucks and School buses and cars and pic ups.
I got estimate of $500.00 to replace ring gear. I came here to see if I can
find any info how bad a job that is.
Good luck I have had my truck for 10 years, many breakdowns and problems with
new replacement parts just are junk a lot of the time. Even some of the replacement
starters I have brought were junk. Make sure the bearing is tight up front and the front part by the front bearing is not big chip or piece broken off.

 

[enginepaul]

First check your connections to the solenoid; if the battery cable goes to the wrong side, the start connection gets no voltage and won't work. Make SURE you are in neutral and jump the solenoid "Batt" side to the "S" terminal and the started should kick in.

From a past post:
An update. I put in a ten tooth gear and everything was fine except that I also replaced the solenoid with the 'best' that O'Rielly has. The made in China solenoid stuck once; a junk-yard genuine Ford part is better.

I just put in a new fly-wheel and original 9-tooth starter and will see how this works. Unfortunately, this is a China flywheel too. We shall see, but for now it is fine. (AND Still working as of 8-16-12)
FYI: The starter can only go on one way and the clearance is determined by the rear engine plate and when I bolted it to the transmission bell-housing, it didn't make more than a couple thousandths of difference. Some Fords could use a flywheel shim, but not these Rangers.
Auto and stick starters are the same from the parts stores. If there is a difference from the factory, it would be slight if any. I held an auto and a stick starter-drive together and didn't see and difference - but I didn't use a micrometer to see if there were any measurable differences.

Also: ------The original flywheel and starter were on the truck when I bought it and were probably ten years old. In my experience, Ford starters last a very long time---
I also ran a 10gage ground wire from one of the starter bolts to the frame and that seemed to help.