Ignition coil change interval?

[Mike Tonon]

Hi, I’m debating on whether or not to change my ignition coil on my 2007 4.0 SOHC with 117,500 miles. I know they used to get noticeably weaker over many tens of thousands of miles. Is that the situation with these or do they just completely die? Engine seems to run fine, but maybe I’m just used to how it runs. Thanks

 

[adsm08]

Yours is only under 1/3 the load of an older one. It should be fine unless you are having misfire issues.

 

[Mike Tonon]

Nope, seems to run great. On my old 87 2.9, I changed the coil, once. With a somewhat cheap aftermarket coil. And the engine seemed peppier. Seemed to fire up faster and have more stout spark. But being that this has 6 separate coils, instead of only 1, I suppose this one could last longer and start burning out much much slower.

 

[DILLARD000]

Still running original 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC, changed Plugs+Wires twice in 240kMiles:
1stTime used both Stock Plugs+Wires, 2ndTime used Stock Plugs & Aftermarket Wires.
Was tempted to replace Stock CoilPack FordMotorCraft# 90tf-12029-a1a \ dg446
with an Accel# 140035 which run about $100;
after cleaning & good visual + good ohm test, chose to keep what seems to be working well as is.
Plugs+Wires definitely needed replacing both times, but CoilPack is stiill original without misfires.
Click here for more info.

 

[Mike Tonon]

Still running original 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC, changed Plugs+Wires twice in 240kMiles:
1stTime used both Stock Plugs+Wires, 2ndTime used Stock Plugs & Aftermarket Wires.
Was tempted to replace Stock CoilPack FordMotorCraft# 90tf-12029-a1a \ dg446
with an Accel# 140035 which run about $100;
after cleaning & good visual + good ohm test, chose to keep what seems to be working well as is.
Plugs+Wires definitely needed replacing both times, but CoilPack is stiill original without misfires.
Click here for more info.

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I’d heard that the 4.0 SOHC coil packs were long lasting. My engine seems to run fine and I see any damage to the coil pack. So it’ll stay.

 

[cbxer55]

I have the ACCEL coils and JBA plug wires on my Mustang. For some odd reason, my Ranger has started having difficulty starting. Starts, just not on the first turn of the key. Taking three or four turns now. I did the plugs in 2018, but this thing has always had a habit of eating the center electrodes off one side. I put Motorcraft double platinums in it. Guess I'll take them out Sunday and see what they look like. Plug wires are getting pretty ratty looking, so I'll go ahead and order me up a new set, like theones on the Stang.

 

[DILLARD000]

I have the ACCEL coils and JBA plug wires on my Mustang. For some odd reason, my Ranger has started having difficulty starting. Starts, just not on the first turn of the key. Taking three or four turns now. I did the plugs in 2018, but this thing has always had a habit of eating the center electrodes off one side. I put Motorcraft double platinums in it. Guess I'll take them out Sunday and see what they look like. Plug wires are getting pretty ratty looking, so I'll go ahead and order me up a new set, like theones on the Stang.

Squirt a little StartingFluid into intake before next ColdStart; if starts on first try, could be a fuel pressure\filter\pump issue?
Center electrodes ate up on on one side is typical of EDIS, due to reversed ignition voltages, left compared to right bank.

 

[cbxer55]

Squirt a little StartingFluid into intake before next ColdStart; if starts on first try, could be a fuel pressure\filter\pump issue?
Center electrodes ate up on on one side is typical of EDIS, due to reversed ignition voltages, left compared to right bank.

I'll hook up my fuel pressure gauge here in a bit. The pump is relatively new, put in in late 2016. Fuel filter was last changed in 2019. Last time I checked, it had 62 psi. On the EDIS, I suspected that was the case. I'm aware of how it works. I tried those E3 plugs once, lasted less than 5000 miles and they were trashed. I put in some NGK iridium plugs once, lasted less than 5000 miles and the center electrodes were gone on both sides.

Interestingly, I put a small tube in the throttle body on the MAF side years ago to allow me to squirt starting fluid in. It's capped off when not being used. Back when I was having real difficulty getting it started. Would crank and crank, but no start. Hook jumper cables up and keep at it. Eventually it would start and run on like 3 cylinders. Then the rest would gradually kick in over about a five minute period. Then it ran great. Had to go through this every time I cold started it. Changed all the sensors, had over 70 psi fuel pressure, new plugs, coils and wires. Then one day, it just stopped doing it. Never figured out what caused it. But when I squirted starting fluid in, it would start, knock horribly (starting fluid is zero octane), burn off the fluid and quit.

 

[DILLARD000]

Do an ohm check on your Ranger coilpack,
& the IgnitionNoiseSuppressionCapacitor; it could be going bad, or just test run with it unplugged.
Could be an intermittent gremlin in the wiring between the PCM & CoilPack.

 

[cbxer55]

Do an ohm check on your Ranger coilpack,
& the IgnitionNoiseSuppressionCapacitor; it could be going bad, or just test run with it unplugged.
Could be an intermittent gremlin in the wiring between the PCM & CoilPack.

Where is it located? I never listen to the radio, so I could run it unplugged forever and not miss it.

 

[DILLARD000]

See the pics above. The Cap is usually bolted to one corner of the CoilPack, & plugs into a 1pin harness socket.