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i think it's dead...


Glad you got it figured out.

That'll be good information for someone in the future.
 
Yes, interesting failure, don't think I have ever come across that one.
 
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The full extent of the damage... On a related note, i found a deal on a factory roller cam and follower set from a newer ranger... So it might get put back together semi stock...
 
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I have a factory roller cam and follower set from a 94, as well as good lash adjusters(4 of 8 are rebuilt)... What else would i need to complete the installation, other than a VC gasket and an oil seal? The timing belt is nearly new...
 
All you need are the cam and followers to swap to the roller cam, if you are in it that deep I suggest doing valve stem seals if you have an air compressor...

That very reason is why I swapped to a roller cam on my turbo engine...
 
I dont have an air compressor, hence why i am just doing the cam and follower set... I will get new seals when i upgrade the head, lol
 
It runs!

I got the truck running last night... Roller cam conversion FtW! I still need to work out a few bugs, but i can drive it again...

So far, it idles a little rough, and i lost my vacuum advance, but otherwise it runs great...
 
Nice..........:icon_thumby:
 
Any ideas as to why its running rough?
 
Idling rough and vacuum advance issue might be related, vacuum leak.

Vacuum advance is usually from a ported(above throttle plate) source, if you hook it up to a straight vacuum(intake) it will be advanced all the time so, in essence, it will not work as a vacuum advance

Cup your hand over the top of the carb, if idle increases you have a leak, could be in the carb, but check all the lines.
 
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My rough idle issue is carb related. I can smell fuel out the exhaust and it floods out after idling, or running at low RPM/throttle for too long... Maybe power valve in stock carb ruptured by pressurizing the intake(when no.3 exh. follower come off)... Just curious, if i have to replace the carb, i can find a weber dgv on line for like 200 bucks new... Could anyone link me to the thread where the guy swapped a weber onto his 2.0? Specifically i want to know his jetting, and the modifications he made to his intake...
 
Sounds like your float needs to be adjusted or the needle has popped out of place.

Only takes a few minutes to check/reseat the needle and reset the float...
 
Only issue there is that i haven't the foggiest notion of how to disassemble a progressive 2bbl carburetor, or any down draft for that matter...
 
Usually five or six star head screws hold it on...once you remove them you will need to lift the whole top end up in a level action (keep it flat) and on the under side you will see the float attached to the bottom of that piece. The float typically holds the needle in place (closed when the float is at the top and open when the float drops)...but if you have too much pressure (from the fuel pump) the needle can be pushed out of place and may even drop into the bowl.

If the float is adjusted too low or too high the fuel can either not be enough to properly run the engine or the fuel will spill over the top of the carb and may even flood it out...runs rough and when it idles you can smell gas in the exhaust.

Adjustments on them are fairly simple...the float level is simply a flat metal piece that can be bent one way or the other to adjust it...once you have it apart it's not so intimidating...

Other thing you will need to watch is that when you assemble it all again it seals properly or you could get a vac leak somewhere...there is a gasket, but I've removed the top of my carb at least three times to clean out the jets (never use teflon sealer on the gas line...lol) and have not had to change the gasket yet due to leaks.
 

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