I set it on fire

[it_was_an_accident]

Okay...I am at my wits end with this one. bought an 88 Ranger with a nice little lift on it. Guy said no compression, then described what happened...sounded to me like a fuel pump issue. Consulted with a buddy (for a trailer and what I should offer) and settled at $750. Change out the fuel pump, drives decent (for having 3 tires that were sunk to the ground and haven't been changed out) has a little stutter when I put it in 3rd, (once again, not trusting the tires so not taking it on far adventures yet). Park it at home, and poof...doesn't start. Keep in mind this thing was filthy on the inside when i got it...i decided that now was the best time to pull the upper intake, intake, valve covers...everything apart and cleaned it...put everything back together...and something didn't go right. A storm approached and I was just Jonesing to get it running. In my haste I did not check if the fuel injectors were seated. I smelled fuel, and asked my wife to see if she could see it when I turned the key to the "on" position. she said no, and as soon as I cranked over...FLASH...my engine was on fire. one sensor and all of the fuel injector wires...done for...so I went to bed...tail between my legs...fast forward a week, and I have redone the entire upper half....AGAIN....and now I am getting a poof out of my exhaust every now and then...but no turn over. the fuel pump is not priming...sometimes...I am flirting with the idea of a 302 swap...but I really just want to get it running. Here is what I have done so far:

Removed the valve covers (x2) and Valve Cover Gaskets (x2)
Upper intake Manifold (x2+) and gaskets
Put new grommets and cleaned the Fuel injectors
Fuel pressure regulator
intake manifold (cleaned 2 times due to fire extinguisher on the first go)
spark plugs
distributor
fuel pump
fuel pump relay

I did also paint them yellow...the plan is to get the tonka yellow on the outside, and put Tonka decals on it...I am sure pictures are fun...I suck at the before after stuff but here is some pictures. I could use whatever help yall could give me.
1988 Ford Ranger 2.9L V6 OHV

I am thinking of trying to go get a new wiring harness because this one seems a little odd..plus they have a battery kill switch in a very dumb spot. Also going to check the timing again...once again...i need an excuse to tell the wife I need more money for my truck...but not going too crazy. Thanks
Bryan

 

[bobbywalter]

Sounds like a ground issue or possible burn on the board With the fuel pump.


Will it run on ether? Hit it with that...

Make sure the small ground wires are good at the battery and no fuse links popped.

 

[Dirtman]

 

[91stranger]

That's a nice looking truck... I would just do away with your headaches and drop the 302 in it. If your gonna go "tonka truck" then that old 2.9 wouldn't compare to v8 power and sound.

 

[09fx4guy]

Honestly, if you are contemplating the 302, now is the time to do it, since you have to "replace" the engine. It is easier to get the entire engine instead of all the small parts.

If you are lucky, the Mrs. won't mind.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

If you're told a 2.9 cannot produce power, you're talking to an imbecile.

The cologne 2.9 12v has been proven to be able to be reliably built to 500+ RWHP for decades. It must be turbocharged or supercharged to break the 200hp barrier if it is not stroked. They respond well to light nitrous.

They reliably handle 21 psi on factory internals if close attention is paid to tuning. 8-14 is considered "safe" levels of boost. Puts it at 300-350 at the rear wheels with effective engine management.

All this said, you MUST have your block hot tanked and inspected before working on it. Some have serious quality control issues from Ford.

If you have factory 86TM heads, flip a coin. Aftermarket heavy castings are the ones to use. Pick your poison, I'm happy with the Promaxx I have.

The 2.9 is a European motor, not American. Look across the ocean for wisdom. Lots to be found in Germany, the UK, and Scandinavia.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS Mr. Accident

On OBD1 vehicles you can turn the fuel pump on manually by using a Ground jumper on the OBD1 connector in engine bay

Have a look here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

The Fuel Pump slot in the OBD1 connector is labelled

That slot is the GROUND for the fuel pump Relay
With key on you can test that slot with a volt meter, you should see 12volts, that means fuel pump Relay is getting power from EEC Relay with Key ON

Then with key on, ground that slot with a jumper wire from Battery Negative or any good metal ground
You should hear the fuel pump relay "click" closed and fuel pump should now be ON

It will go off with key OFF



The computer normally grounds the FP Relay for 2 seconds with key on, the wire from computer to relay passes thru that slot in OBD1 connector, so you are just doing what computer should do
Computer will then Ground the FP Relay full time when engine RPMs are above 400, cranking RPMs are 200, so engine needs to start to get a full time ground from computer

A relay's coil is just that, a coil of wire around a metal cylinder, so when this coil gets 12v on one wire you will see it on the other end of the wire, which is why you would see 12v in the OBD1 FP slot
The 12v doesn't activate the coil unless the other end of the wire also grounded
And no its not a short, because of the coil of wire in between the 12v and ground, same as a light bulb is not a short when it has 12v and ground, it just lights up, and the coil just activates, and closes the relay contacts

 

[Snoranger]

If you're told a 2.9 cannot produce power, you're talking to an imbecile.

The cologne 2.9 12v has been proven to be able to be reliably built to 500+ RWHP for decades. It must be turbocharged or supercharged to break the 200hp barrier if it is not stroked. They respond well to light nitrous.

They reliably handle 21 psi on factory internals if close attention is paid to tuning. 8-14 is considered "safe" levels of boost. Puts it at 300-350 at the rear wheels with effective engine management.

The 2.9 is a European motor, not American. Look across the ocean for wisdom. Lots to be found in Germany, the UK, and Scandinavia.

How’s yours going?

 

[91stranger]

v8 swap it.... Good parts for a 2.9 are not going to be cheap let alone easy to find. You can get parts for a 302 all day long and not have to order from the UK... Would you want it to sound like American muscle or a sprinkler with a pringles can exhaust tip? Them 2.9's sound more like typewriters and sprinklers than a v6.... But hey, it's your money so if you want to spend mucho dinero on your sprinkler then so be it.

 

[bobbywalter]

How’s yours going?

Right now it is naked and afraid.


But soon......

 

[Snoranger]

Right now it is naked and afraid.


But soon......

I’m trying to convince him to to ditch the distributor and go EDIS.

 

[bobbywalter]

Yes.....



So yes. I would Just run a Oak style system from an 11 complete and 36 pounders.


But mega has a awesome setup for edis.


He will edis ...because....edis











But may Intentionally set it on fire if it breaks

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Yes.....



So yes. I would Just run a Oak style system from an 11 complete and 36 pounders.


But mega has a awesome setup for edis.


He will edis ...because....edis











But may Intentionally set it on fire if it breaks

Every single line of this is accurate.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

How’s yours going?

I need pistons. Maybe rods....

Other than that? 300lbs of Euro-powered flames and hatred.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

v8 swap it.... Good parts for a 2.9 are not going to be cheap let alone easy to find. You can get parts for a 302 all day long and not have to order from the UK... Would you want it to sound like American muscle or a sprinkler with a pringles can exhaust tip? Them 2.9's sound more like typewriters and sprinklers than a v6.... But hey, it's your money so if you want to spend mucho dinero on your sprinkler then so be it.

Well, wrong again... List of parts for my entire build to-date. Out of respect for Jim's rules, I will not link to vendors. PM me for them and prices.

So far, still under budget for a built 302 that can produce the same power levels.

Aside from my throttle bodies, all parts were sourced from the USA. Just have to know where to look, and who to talk to.




Rings - Sealed Power E-481K (moly)

Connecting Rods - Stock, stress relieved and shot peened

Con Rod Bearings - King or SP, still making decisions with new machine shop.

Crank - Stock, balanced to redline at 7000 RPM

Crank Bearings - King or SP, still making decisions with new machine shop.

Rear Main Seal

Timing Cover Seal

Timing Set - Cloyes 9-4151S

Camshaft - Melling MC814 Stock Grind

Cam Bearings - Perfect Circle SH1390S

Heads - Promaxx Improved Casting

Head Gaskets - Solid Copper, 0.042"

Intake Valves - SI Valves - Stainless Portflow Series – SEV-3489

Exhaust Valves - SI Valves - Stainless Portflow Series – SEV-2012

Valve Springs - Crane 99858 (Inner) Crane 99834 (Outer)

Valve Spring Retainers

Valve Spring Keepers

Valve Stem Seals

Rocker Assemblies - Stock, Polished, Spacers (Free Floating)

Pushrods - Sealed Power RP3233

Lifters - Crane 99281

Oil Pump - Melling M328 High Volume

Headers JBA Stainless JBA 1632S

Lower Intake - 1992 Ranger HD (Late manifold is reinforced for valley stress)

Upper Intake - Merkur Scorpio

Throttle Bodies - Ford Sierra Non-EGR

Injectors - Saleen 24lb Four Hole

Turbocharger - Volvo 13T

Intercooler - 18x12x3 Bar & Plate 3" End Tank

Methanol - DIY system, 100psi @ 3.3GPM max flow. Devil's Own #1 and #3 nozzles depending on demands.







I'll update the list on my build page as more of it comes together.


I can appreciate the fact that you do not like cologne engines. However, please keep in mind you are influencing peoples decisions based on your opinions, not facts. If I would have listened to someone like you in the beginning of this, both of our Rangers would probably be in the same place as yours.

I don't know what sprinklers have to do with anything? Referring to methanol spray?

Unless you are wrong (again) on what a turbo'd 2.9 sounds like...