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I put a suspension lift on my ranger, not big enough for me.


King Crush

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
89
Age
39
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Ok, as you all probably know from my other threads I just put on a 6'' SJ Class II lift on my 93 ranger munual-. I have 33's on there. Well, I want 35's. So when I get more money I'm going to put a body lift on. I have some questions though cuz I have never put on a body lift. After I get the body lift on and tires I'm driving it over to my buddy's house that is just a couple miles away and I'm gonna have his dad that his mechanic put in 4.88's in it and a locker in the rear. I'm thinking of gettin the Detroit True Trac.

Here are my questions:

Do any of you know where to get a good bodylift kit? I'm thinking a of a 3''.

I don't want it to look like sh1t, so I need the kit to come with those cover sthat cover the frame gaps.

I also need bumper relocate brakets so the bumpers don't look stupid.

Will I need a shifter extension?

Will I need a extended filler neck hose?

Will I need a extended stearing thing (whatever that's called?)

Thanks so much guys for answering all my NEWB questions!

So if any of you know the site to get a body lift kit with all those things I listed or will need to do a proper body lift, I would really apreciate if you would gimmie the link.

Thanks again.
 
Here are my questions:

Do any of you know where to get a good bodylift kit? I'm thinking a of a 3''.

I built mine. They're pretty cheap as a kit, but most kits don't come with the little stuff anyways. I knew I'd likely have to make the bumper brackets, steering extension and shifter extension on my own, so why not build the blocks too? I ended up using 1" square tubing cut to 3" lengths with washers welded on the ends.



I don't want it to look like sh1t, so I need the kit to come with those cover sthat cover the frame gaps.

I'm pretty sure they're always separate. IIRC my gap gaurds were around $100 for front and back. Again, you could make them out of swather canvas or something for cheap.



I also need bumper relocate brakets so the bumpers don't look stupid.

Super easy to make.



Will I need a shifter extension?

No, but it will feel too low and will probably shift funny without it. Again, VERY simple to make on your own.



Will I need a extended filler neck hose?

I didn't. However, you will have to move the fan shroud up and there's a ground under the hood that needs to be extended as well. I think I might have had to make the hoses to the heater core longer as well(can't remember for sure).



Will I need a extended stearing thing (whatever that's called?)

I made on that was the same dimensions as the kit part, but it didn't fit well and the rag-joint felt really lumpy through the wheel. Enough that it wouldn't return to center. I ended up getting a u-joint style shaft from an aerostar, and that works great with the proper spacing.



Thanks so much guys for answering all my NEWB questions!

No prob, I hope my answers are what you were looking for :icon_thumby:
 
I put a PA body lift on my '94, it came with bumper brackets for the front and an extension for the steering. Since mine is a manual, I needed to buy an extension for the shifter separate. You shouldn't need to extend the filler for the gas tank. Honestly, 6 inches of suspension lift is a good amount to run 35's, just trim the fenders up a little bit and bumpstop it if you are planning on off roading it. If it is just a mall crawler/pavement pounder, then lift away...



hick
 
A company called lift lips makes the gap guards although there somewhat exspensive.
 
The PA kit comes with everything you need except for the shifter extension(I prefer mine w/o the extension), gap gaurds, and rear bumper brackets. Its a good kit and will work great for what you need
 
The PA kit comes with everything you need except for the shifter extension(I prefer mine w/o the extension), gap gaurds, and rear bumper brackets. Its a good kit and will work great for what you need

Cool, I'll hafta google PA body lift and see what comes up. Why do you prefer no extended shifter? I'm also thinking of just putting the factory block under the 6'' leafs, and getting 8'' coils. But I don't wanna lift it too high suspension cuz my front u joint allready clunks since I jacked it up 6'', so higher would prolly make it worse. I prolly need to go to a shop that makes driveshafts and make me a longer one.
 
The true-trac isn't a locker, its an LS, Just get a straight up Detroit Locker.
 
The true-trac isn't a locker, its an LS, Just get a straight up Detroit Locker.

My buddy with a classic bad ass Bronco has a spoll in his rear and he says it's acts like a locker and a hell of a lot cheaper and no clunking. Should I get one?
 
Spool?

If you drive on the street much, you probably don't want a spool.
A spool is a solid unit that permanently locks both tires solidly together as one. There's no differentiation, so the tires will just drag and skid on the pavement during turns.
 
I like the feel of the shifter lower. I think it allows gears to be shifted more easily. And it does not mess up anything and requires no modding
 
Spool?

If you drive on the street much, you probably don't want a spool.
A spool is a solid unit that permanently locks both tires solidly together as one. There's no differentiation, so the tires will just drag and skid on the pavement during turns.
Yup, Its basically the same as welding the gears, no good on a street rig...

On a side note I have fun listening to welded/spooled rigs pull out of the gas station, chirp chirp chirp...
 
old thread... too lazy to skim through it ****ing sue me... idc.. suspension lift or trim wheel wells!!!

EDIT:

ya i agree with the above post... they will "chirp" around corners some times.. if i remember correctly they will clunk every once in a while!
 
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