I learned something...the hard way...

[Mark_88]

Perhaps...

After reading all the threads and thinking about a sticky document I went searching last night for more information...found a few tidbits here and there...there was a video on carb tuning so I started watching it without sound...it was for the Holley 5200...not the same as my carb but similar...

Well, there in the video the guy shows adjustments and other interesting things that I was going "yeah, yeah" and then he flips the carb over and shows an adjustment on the side nearest the VC...so, I say "whoa"...and quickly put on my headset to listen...

The adjustment on the inside near the valve cover is for the secondary...which usually doesn't kick in until near WOT...dang~!

I had been farting around with mine and decided to turn that one down since I had NFI what it was for and the truck ran funny with it closed and funnier when it was open too much...

I think I had mine turned too low...that would result in lean condition at higher rpm when I kicked it down to try to get up a hill or otherwise move faster...and, of course, a lean condition can burn valves if prolonged...

My truck is currently smoking badly when I let off the throttle...this is indicative of valve seals gone bad but I'm wondering if my stupidity has lead to burned valves...

It does stop smoking when I dump some of that "no smoke" sealant into it, but it returns quickly...so I'm thinking I've done some damage that may require another rebuild on the head...

 

[bigpanda]

Dag man that sucks. Hope it won't be too costly.

 

[Mark_88]

Went to price the valve seals today but they couldn't do it til Monday...but I did put some Lucas in it and it seems to keep the oil from burning...unfortunately I have a serious oil leak somewhere and I'm going to have to tear it apart to have a better look...gotta replace the intake/carb gasket anyway so that will be my project for now...

Think I might not have sealed the cam properly...I did that once before and had a heck of a mess...but a bit of teflon tape fixed that...

 

[upnsmoke]

If you have access to air pressure a leakdown test could tell you if you have valve issues.

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, thanks, I was thinking of that the other day...it just started smoking really bad since the warmer weather...I had been putting about a litre of Lucas in with the oil change and topping it up with a bit of Lucas and regular oil and it did not smoke at all...backed off on the Lucas recently since I am going to change the oil and filter soon and that's when it started smoking...

Lucas oil treatment...the thick stuff...is about $17 per litre...compared with $5 for regular oil I figured weening it off the Lucas wouldn't hurt too much...but my truck seems to have champagne tastes on my beer budget...

 

[chilsam]

What wt oil are u running?

Yes, thanks, I was thinking of that the other day...it just started smoking really bad since the warmer weather...I had been putting about a litre of Lucas in with the oil change and topping it up with a bit of Lucas and regular oil and it did not smoke at all...backed off on the Lucas recently since I am going to change the oil and filter soon and that's when it started smoking...

Lucas oil treatment...the thick stuff...is about $17 per litre...compared with $5 for regular oil I figured weening it off the Lucas wouldn't hurt too much...but my truck seems to have champagne tastes on my beer budget...

Iv had OLD rides in the past that did the same thing switched to 20w/50 and 1 qt of 85/140 tranny lube and a little hotter plug n NEVER had a prob smoked a little on start up but clears up after a bit.

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the info...I might try that if I can't find a leak that is fixable without tearing the motor apart...it's been great weather for it when I'm busy but when I have down time to look at something it's either raining or dark...lol

 

[upnsmoke]

I run 20w50 in my motorcycle, but I would never put it in my Ranger. The 20 weight when cold will just hurt something on startup. I read an article about the available types and weights of engine oil a while back that could be considered very enlightening if you agree with it. I will track it down and link to it tomorrow.

 

[Mark_88]

OK, I took the carb off today and was messing around making sure the passage to the PCV was cleared...it was...but I somehow managed to dislodge the canister that connects the whole thing to the intake...

That was not hard to connect, but I realize that the neck on my canister is very short...and recall the one I took out of a mustang (which I ended up tossing since it didn't serve the purpose I wanted it for...dang) had a really long neck...just wondering if I would have to remove the intake to get it in place...not a big deal to do that but I think I need to look for another canister...

I tried to make a gasket for the carb base out of the material I just bought but couldn't do it...has a metal coating on one side...good for exhaust and maybe intake but I now have a $14 piece of gasket material that may be no use to me...

Ah, the costs continue...lol

 

[Mark_88]

So...I found another oil leak...this one appears to be from behind the timing tensioner peg (the peg that holds the tensioner spring in place)...

It appears that I had left it about two threads too far out and oil is bubbling from behind there...I hope that's all it is because I can take it apart and put some teflon tape around the threads and put it back together...I took some pics but haven't uploaded them to my photobucket account yet...

Intersting that one small little leak like that can cause so much oil loss...well, aside from the canister being too small for the hole...so I'm going to have to find another canister...just checked it this morning and the thing wobbles around and smoke blows out of it...as well as a visible oil trail...ah...kinda busy right now and don't have the parts I need...so another trip to the junkyard...

 

[itlives]

Mark, is the thing between the dizzy and the oil thingamabob. I have two, you're welcome to one.

 

[Mark_88]

yep, that's like it...but mine is a bit shorter and has a slightly different angle on the outlet...probably couldn't use one from that motor...thanks for the offer, but I think I've found a solution...

I remember a long time ago that I had a rubber seal on mine...it was missing...so I got this one...

And I finally found my aluminum tape...it is just thick enough to wrap the stem to make it a tight fit...

When I was cleaning out the PCV I must have dislodged it...was going to try to add a short extension to the bottom of it but that would require too much work...and it has held in there for many years...it just doesn't provide a good seal...which resulted in leaking oil and not allowing the PCV to function properly to draw off the air pressure and fumes in the crankcase...

I'm going up to take it apart again and add the aluminum tape and see how that seals...

 

[Mark_88]

And this is the peg where the other oil leak is...it just bubbles out from behind that peg but it has managed to coat the front end of my motor pretty good...between that and the poor seal job I did on the gasket a few months back and that has resulted in quite a bit of extra oil loss...

EDIT:

Here is a better pic of my Offy type (that's what it was called years ago) intake without the carb...you can see the Tempo dizzy boot here that helps keep the moisture off my distributor...

EditII:

I was just searching for my intake number E1ZE-9425-BA (this is actually an original FOrd intake part number) and found this site...thought someone might be interested...plenty of good stuff on early carbed engines...especially 302

http://mustangtek.com/index.html

 

[chilsam]

60w in my 82 80" shovelhead it loves it

I run 20w50 in my motorcycle, but I would never put it in my Ranger. The 20 weight when cold will just hurt something on startup. I read an article about the available types and weights of engine oil a while back that could be considered very enlightening if you agree with it. I will track it down and link to it tomorrow.

I'm talking old n high mileage the clearances have increased QUITE a bit in motor and oil pump.The bores have ovaled out also so the motor spins a lot freer on start up.Not to mention the valve seals are harder than a whores heart IF they are still in 1 piece.Thicker oil also has a better CLING factor after running so it's still there on start up.

 

[upnsmoke]

Clearances increase, but passage sizes do not. I would be worried about hurting a wrist pin or wiping my cam running 20w50. The heavier stuff may cling better, but most of it still makes it's way to the pan. I would run that heavy of an oil only as a last resort to save a motor I was sure was dead anyway, and there are other measures I would try first. Mark, the pcv issue sounds like potentially good news for the internals of your motor. For your carb base gasket I like Felpro part# 3157. They call it rubber fiber. It works well and I have reused gaskets made from it on some occasions. You can probably stop that pin from leaking without re-doing the rest of your timing belt, you think?