I have a conundrum I would like your advice on please

[gspears]

I have a 04 ext cab 2wd with a 3.0 non flex fuel (I think, as it doesn’t have any flex fuel badges.) with 94K miles. It overheated badly the other day and now I have issues. It looks like judging by the CEL codes and looking in the cylinder that it’s got a small leak of water in #1. Although there is no water in the oil or oil in the water that I can see. It runs fine like it always did but idles very roughly. Doesn’t die but flashes the CEL repeatedly while idling roughly.

So my conundrum is do I just pull the heads and do a valve job at two grand if I have it done at a good shop (400 plus parts for a shade-tree I know is okay) or I could do it myself which I’m really not in the mood to do in 114 degree heat here in Phoenix, not that I can afford the 2K either. Or I can get a reman for 1900 shipped (with a 4 year unlimited mile warranty) and put it in for 650 or myself. I’m thinking from the reading I’ve been doing that 94K isn’t that many miles for the 04 version of this engine.

So what are your recommendations? How hard is it to pull the heads on an 04 version of the 3.0 liter? What should I pay for a valve job? A reman? Should I even attempt a used engine? Is there a good online guide or should I buy a book like Chiltons or Haynes? Any recommendations on a good machine shop that is reasonable? Which gasket kit to buy and where?

This is a tough situation and I appreciate all your help.

 

[adsm08]

I would do a block test and compression check before I started tearing the engine apart.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[Rearanger]

I would do a block test and compression check before I started tearing the engine apart.

^^^ Yes.

You can borrow block tester (for exhaust gases in cooling system) and compression gauge from Advance/Auto Zone. Normally I recommend a compression test on hot engine, but no need in your case. If you have blown head gasket you'll know it.

 

[RonD]

Yes, you probably do have a cracked head or head gasket leak but I would certainly do a few other test before committing to a top-end rebuild.

"Small leak of water in #1"..........was the spark plug wet?
Did that spark plug look like a new plug, steam cleaned by leaking coolant?

Do you have white "smoke" from the exhaust pipe, coolant smell in that "smoke"?

Is the overflow tank bubbling right after starting engine?
Are you losing coolant?




For 2 remanufactured 3.0l heads, and your heads in exchange, you should pay $400
Gasket set with new head bolts should be under $100

If you have the time, 3 or 4 days, a Machine shop can rebuild your current heads for about $100 each.

If one of the heads is cracked, it will cost a bit more for the core.

Anyway, it shouldn't be $2,000 to R&R the heads, under $1,000 if someone else does the wrenching, about $500 if you do the wrenching.


But one thing to find out first.....................why did engine overheat?
Any money spent on the top-end would be wasted if you repeat the overheat

Blown head gasket is usually just a symptom of the actual problem.

 

[gspears]

"Small leak of water in #1"..........was the spark plug wet?

the spark plug was not wet but the plug and piston looked as if they'd been steam cleaned.

Did that spark plug look like a new plug, steam cleaned by leaking coolant?

yep

Do you have white "smoke" from the exhaust pipe, coolant smell in that "smoke"?

Nope, it's not leaking that bad.
Is the overflow tank bubbling right after starting engine?

Nope, I don't think the leak is bad enough for that.

Are you losing coolant?

A little bit. I have to put a little in after about every 50 miles.

For 2 remanufactured 3.0l heads, and your heads in exchange, you should pay $400
Gasket set with new head bolts should be under $100

If you have the time, 3 or 4 days, a Machine shop can rebuild your current heads for about $100 each.

If one of the heads is cracked, it will cost a bit more for the core.

Anyway, it shouldn't be $2,000 to R&R the heads, under $1,000 if someone else does the wrenching, about $500 if you do the wrenching.


But one thing to find out first.....................why did engine overheat?
Any money spent on the top-end would be wasted if you repeat the overheat

You're correct. It had a tiny coolant leak around the timing case cover and I make the mistake of thinking when I had the oil changed they would have topped off the radiator, and didn't check it and didn't notice the temp gauge was pegged until it started running poorly. Totally my fault and now I'm paying for it with money I don't have.

Guys THANK YOU very much for your help. I haven't done a compression check but it's running so well I doubt it would be down much. I'm sorry I forgot to mention that I did have it tested and it did have exhaust gasses in the radiator.

So should I assume that everyone is suggesting that I just do a valve job because I should be able to get a ton more miles out of the lower end (provided of course there is no other damage from the overheating)

Thanks again.

 

[RonD]

Yes, exhaust gases in coolant, that would be the for sure sign, lol.

A "valve job" isn't what it used to be with the new materials used in the valve guide, seats and valves.
Unless the valves looked burned or head fails pressure test(if machine shop does the work) about all you need to do is to replace the rubber valve guide seals, which will come in the head gasket kit.

I have never read of a 3.0l having a burnt valve, which is caused by a valve not sealing.

But yes, redo both heads, cleaned, machined and pressure tested.
Newer engines use "stretch" bolts on the heads, so they should not be reused.

 

[gspears]

Yes, exhaust gases in coolant, that would be the for sure sign, lol.

A "valve job" isn't what it used to be with the new materials used in the valve guide, seats and valves.
Unless the valves looked burned or head fails pressure test(if machine shop does the work) about all you need to do is to replace the rubber valve guide seals, which will come in the head gasket kit.

I have never read of a 3.0l having a burnt valve, which is caused by a valve not sealing.

But yes, redo both heads, cleaned, machined and pressure tested.
Newer engines use "stretch" bolts on the heads, so they should not be reused.

Thank you for the advice. I'm planning on getting the head gasket set, head bolts, timing cover gasket, water pump, possibly timing chain (if it looks worn, do these wear out at 94K,) plugs, wires and I guess from reading the threads here I should change the cam timing shaft or whatever that is.

Any suggestions on a good place to get quality parts at very reasonable pricing? Or anything else I should be changing?