I got codes! help translating?

[JTH1972]

I know I have this in another thread, but I could really use some help figuring out what these mean.

Okay, I just did the KOEO test and it flashed 11 twice, long pause then one pulse (seperator), another long pause, then it flashed 34 twice, which according to the codes is:
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE

I'm not familiar with the acronyms, so can someone help?

KOER Test as follows:
1 pulse
light flickered
21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
33 - ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
77 - System did not receive "goose" test - see TESTS
25 - Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
21 (repeated)
33
77
25

Translation help please? So far from the KOER test I'm going to have to replace the EGR valve and coolant sensor, correct?

 

[dgndngrngr]

well i had a code 21 on mine as well and i replaced the coolant temp sensor and reset the codes and i got the same thing again.

The EVP is the valve position sensor which is part of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system.

The part that looks like its got a block plate over it with the 2 bolts top and bottom...thats where the EGR(in my case..used to be) is. they were on 2.9s prior to 1987. there should be a vacuum line here and an electrical connector going to the EGR.
looks like this:
http://www.autozone.com/R,5256343/v...partType,00604/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Edit:
code 77 means that during the KOER you are supposed to give it wide open throttle for a second as one of the steps of the test
code 25 dont worry about, theres no knock sensor in the 86 2.9

so from what it sounds like with code 33 you might need a new EGR valve but im not sure about the coolant temp sensor. i gave up on mine, its probably a wiring issue.

 

[JTH1972]

thanks for the reply.

I found a donor at the wreckers for the coolant sensor, but naturally I didn't have anything on me to get into the tight space! I'll give it a shot again in a couple of days (going back for other parts). I thought i had read somewhere on here that a bad coolant sensor can cause bad fuel economy? Can a bad EGR cause something similar?

What about the EVR and PFE?

 

[dgndngrngr]

ya a bad coolant sensor probably doesnt tell the computer that it has warmed up and can get out of the warm up "loop". i just cant figure out why its not working on mine.

a bad egr will also decrease gas mileage but will can cause other issues like lack of power.

the EVR and PFE are different acronyms for the same thing.

i looked up code 33 and 34 in the haynes book it says:
33-EGR valve opening not detected
34-EVP voltage above closed limit

check this out:http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/pfe sensors.pdf
thats what this in circled in this picture:

sorry i dont have a definite answer here, im learning this stuff as i go too.

 

[JTH1972]

Since the EVR/PFE came up as a stored code, i'll get swapped what I have to and then re-set the codes. If it does come up again, I guess that'll be next after the EGR.

thanks dgndngrngr for the autozone link. I wish parts were that cheap up here! I have the EGR priced out at $86 bucks.

sorry i dont have a definite answer here, im learning this stuff as i go too.

Hey, any info is more info than I had before. All help is appreciated.

 

[dgndngrngr]

ok cool, ya let us know if that works and if the coolant sensor code goes away too with the donor sensor

86 bucks! holy crap. thats probably something better to get new than used anyway though

 

[JTH1972]

86 bucks! holy crap. thats probably something better to get new than used anyway though

Yea, plus I haven't seen many 86's in the wreckers here. The coolant sensor I had priced out at $76 CDN new. I hope the manual has instructions for testing the sensors (when it comes!).

You think that's bad for price? I've priced out a TPS sensor at $50 CDN and a FPR at $160 CDN! Thank God I managed to find a guy on Ebay selling these sensors for $20 and $30 respectively. I don't need them, but at that price I figured I'd get them "just in case". I want to do the same thing with the HP fuel pump too. I've priced them out at $250 CDN for one. I found some on ebay that were reasonable priced, but I want to make damn sure I got one on the truck before I order one, since I still haven't located one on the frame rail yet. I definitely want one as a spare. Fuel in my area is notorious for chewing up fuel pumps.

Edit: So is there any way of testing the EGR and/or EVR? Judging by the code results, which would you replace first?

 

[dgndngrngr]

i would make sure the vacuum lines are not plugged and make sure the egr is clean first then reset the codes, run it and see if they pop up again. i searched through the forums and havent found a way to test them on the 2.9s

i just thought of this too: http://www.autozone.com/R,640963/ve...partType,00161/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
the position sensor could be bad and not telling the computer its position.

now im confused. ok, your egr valve should look like this:http://www.autozone.com/R,3188055/v...partType,00214/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

i would replace that first. the diaphragms in them (if their like the diaphragms in the fuel pressure regulator, and i think they are) are junk and break pretty easily.

so ya if the vac lines look good id replace the EGR first (the second link)

 

[sjr53]

I cleared my 33 code by cleaning out the plugged hole in the throttle body that goes from the EGR valve to an opening in front of the throttle plate. It didn't have any noticable effect getting the EGR working. The 86 does have a knock sensor on the drivers side of the block, low down where it is difficult to work on. The mechanic that overhauled my 86 painted over the electrical contacts of the knock sensor and I had a tough time scraping off enough paint to get it to work again. The engine needs to be warmed up or you will get a code 21 KOER.

 

[JTH1972]

i just thought of this too: http://www.autozone.com/R,640963/ve...partType,00161/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
the position sensor could be bad and not telling the computer its position.

Hmmm... i don't recognize that. I'll have to take a better look for it.

The engine needs to be warmed up or you will get a code 21 KOER.

I've been suspecting something is wrong with this anyway. The coolant temp is always on the low end of the "normal" scale. I still have to check the thermostat too for the temp range (or if it even has one?). But I'd like to drain out some of the coolant before attempting to remove the thermostat, but first I have to clean all the rust and crap that's blocking the petcock on the rad!

I'm starting to understand why the guy got rid of this truck. Just seems like a lot of little stuff wrong, but each is getting pretty pricey to fix.

 

[JTH1972]

i would make sure the vacuum lines are not plugged and make sure the egr is clean first then reset the codes,

Today, I replaced the majority of the old plastic vaccuum lines on the passenger side, and the one going to the EGR. I made sure engine was warm and tried again. Still getting the 77,25, and 33 codes during KOER.

i just thought of this too: http://www.autozone.com/R,640963/ve...partType,00161/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
the position sensor could be bad and not telling the computer its position.

I can't see anything like that going to the EGR. just a vaccuum hose going to the PFE sensor.

 

[mike2357]

EGR Errors how to make them all go away

Ok first thing ill say is u don't have a EGR or sensor if u replace or re flash the brain all this will go away you have the wrong ECC a E8tf PA brain for 1988 ranger 2.9
dose not look for any EGR at all the and the E7Tf dose had this problem with engine swap Reman ECC Autozone E8TF PA $99 second thing the temp sensor in the pic is for the guage the one that feeds the computer is the big one to the left more than 1 wire

 

[mike2357]

87 88 89 2.9 are not required to have EGR except in Calif mine passed AIR test with flying colors it has no EGR at all so if u put the rite ECC in Them u can throw away all the EGR Stuff AND Block Them off your truck will run better with out it

E8TF-PA ECC FED Autozone $99 + core Same AT Oreilly +- $1

 

[mike2357]

Cardone Reman ECC part# 78-4349 replacement for the E8TF-PA ECC
fed emis will not look for any smog gear excpt O2 sensor

 

[mike2357]

Never replace any sensor with out testing it most the time they arn't bad and your just wasting money look up oldfuelinjection.com or just brows the web on how to test the sensor act ect map tps (O2 Can test good and still be bad the heater will go out and they dont work till it gets up to 600 F causing a big dead spot in the throttle) TPS can be tested easy with a VOM look for a smoth change on the meter for The MAP u need an old tach dwell meter and a vac hand pump if it changes RPM/Freq out put when u put vac to it its fine