I could really use some help!

[racing83x]

alright, here it goes.
i started out with a 1990 ranger, standard cab, 2.3 4cyl, 2wd.
i swapped in a '85 F-150 302 (30 over), '83 F150 cast iron intake, '83 F150 cast iron heads, '83 2 barrel carter carb, mechanical fuel pump, manual choke, vacuum advance distributor also '83, only h2o pump and alt, no power steering, no a\c, no smog, no egr, true old school engine, Trans-dapt 9736, 1113, hedman 89500, PA 3" body lift, 92 mazda 5 speed tranny (tail shaft modified for tranny speedo instead of rear axle speedo).

im new to customs but have 6 years of experience in repairs, and quite frankly guys im flat out stuck, i have a battery drain that takes my fully charged battery 12.87V and takes it down to 1.12V in less than 10 hours, i also have many wires from the new V8 that i do not know where they would attach into the 4cyl harness, i would like to get rid of the computer and all the excessive wiring, i have been working on this truck bit by bit for 7 months.

i also do not have a radiator that fits or rad hoses that fit, im not a ford enthusiast but i wanted to learn something new. i could really use any kind of advice, tips, and know how, i have very good background knowledge but i have stretched it to my wits end trying to figure this out.

 

[V8 Level II]

You don't need the 4-cylinder computer for anything. As far as where the discharge problem is, that is too broad a question to guess about. I think that I'd start by revisiting which wires are "hot in run" from the ignition switch and which are "always hot" from the battery. Getting a copy of the schematics for donor and project would also help a lot.

 

[baddad457]

Bad voltage regulators used to be a common source for battery drains.

 

[cavedweller]

racing83x---If you run out of options try this . Locate your fuse block ,......disconnect/take your positve battery cable off of your battery. Get an analog,(digital will work also), volt/ohms meter. Hook it up to the positive lead ,(positive batt cable to meter positive),the other lead to ground .Your meter should read zero or close to it ,meaning you have a short. Start pulling fuses,when the meter jumps up to the opposite side ,(infinity),you have found your circuit short.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I`m guessing you have the duraspark ignition or is it points. +1 on disconnecting the battery and check for shorts by connecting the test leads as described. then disconnect the alternator wires if it opens the circuit then the alternator is bad (internal short) if not pull all the fuses one at a time until the circuit opens then you have a place to start tracing wires. The radio and the computer have a direct connection to the battery for memory but that wont drain the battery very fast and wiil show up on the test if connected but your looking for a short with very low resistance a direct short would cause the fusable link to fry or wires to burn. Get a schematic to help trace wires GL

 

[racing83x]

thanks guys i will see what i can do.

 

[Earl43P]

Here is a pretty good how-to:

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/CurrentDrain/currentdrain.pdf

 

[racing83x]

ok so i got the wiring diagrams and got everything wired correctly. but now i think i have a very common ground issue, the starter wants to engage but wont actually spin, possibly the wrong starter? or do i need a better ground? also im not sure if i need a engine to chassis ground, the 2.3L had one but i dont have one on the 302

 

[baddad457]

Motor needs to be directly grounded to the battery. Body needs direct ground to the frame and/or battery also. The current returning to the battery from the starter needs a direct path to follow.