I broke my engine.

[bubba cakes]

Let me start by saying: I'm as dumb as a box of doorknobs.

I was driving home in the rain a few weeks ago, and the engine just stopped running. the timing belt had snapped.

i replaced the timing belt (it was an ordeal for me for various reasons related to living in an isolated area, not having all the tools i need, not having transportation, etc). i started the engine. it ran awful rough and the valves were clattering like mad. then the engine died. it was the last time it would ever run.

i have since heard that if the timing belt breaks while going 40mph, that there are probably some bent valves.

i didn't put any anti-freeze in the coolant, 'cause i was going to have to do more work on it. (this is called "foreshadowing", where a sentence pretty much tells what is to come.).

while planning my next assault on the engine, the temp in my neighborhood dropped to zero overnight.

hahahahaha

yes, the block cracked.

now i'm really starting to have fun!

so now i need a new motor. my situation is complicated by the fact that i am retired, living on social insecurity, and apparently i'm also retarded.

so, i need a cheap, second-hand engine in good condition. i found one for $400. i'll call again and ask for compression readings for each cylinder. what else can i ask for? they already told me it's got 97,000 miles on it.

this would be a good time for a turbo swap, right?

a second salvage yard said that the only engines i can use are from a truck like mine: 95 B2300, and 95-97 Ranger engines will also fit. Wicked Sludge mentions that there are many others that can be used, including turbo 2.3's. do they just fit right in there, with all bolts lining up and everything, or is it a mechanic's challenge to make it fit somehow? can an idiot like myself do it?

thanks!

 

[Psychopete]

...

I always thought the 2.3L was a non-interference engine?

My brother has done something similar with a 302 in his '67 Mustang, shit happens.

Turbo swap will require that you swap all turbo related parts, computer, and etc.

IMO, if you're on a limited budget, you may want to consider just sticking with a N/A 2.3L.. But that's your call..

Pete

 

[dennis461]

...i'm also retarded.
...

I have to agree with you.
The engine is not interference.
You did not mention if you lined the timing marks up when doing the belt.
My 1993 4-cylinder threw a belt, coasted to a stop, no engine noise because the valves cannot hit the pistons. Towed home replaced belt (following the Haynes manual instructions) rode it for two more years.
.
It's possible you had an engine problem first, thats what brooke the belt.

 

[bubba cakes]

thanks guys

i'll go for the unaltered second hand engine for a direct swap.

 

[Mark_88]

Mustang 2.3s will bolt right in too...since yours if DIS should look for a similar engine, but the distributor engines will work also...there are various and assorted changes throughout the models that can lead to confusion and maybe alterations to make things fit...

But you should be able to find a good engine for less than $500...I paid $150 for mine complete with heads...helps if you know what to look for though...

 

[Bryan22]

for you guys talking about it being a noninterference motor.... it dosen't matter. The water freezing in the cooling system cracked the block, it's junk.


97,000 miles is nothing for this motor. Mines got 230,xxx still runs like a champ. As long as compression readings are withing spec I'd say go for that.

 

[stikman]

engine

I bought a Pinto from my wifes friend 20 years ago that broke the belt. I put the new belt on correctly and got it to run but it missed. Tured out it punched a valve and I had to fix it. I dunno how but it did.

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

Only a 95-97 motor will bolt in. Earlier year motors, including the 2.3 turbo, are physically the same motor, but the electronics are vastly different once the OBD-II switch happened in 95. On the plus side, you can easily pull and motor and stick a different one in its place in one day, provided you have some sort of motor hoist. While it's out, I would definately replace the clutch if it's a manual.

I wouldn't mess with turbo if you need the truck to drive. You have to custom make/fit some stuff and turbo stuff can get expensive.

 

[bubba cakes]

thank you, Dennis. it's nice to be noticed.

i did line up the marks on the two pulleys, and the manual says the truck will run rough for 10-15 miles until the computer figures out what's what, but... it matters not since i froze and broke the block. i'm going to take it apart and see what damage is in there. maybe i can save some money if the head is still good. by the way, do you know if the camshaft is in the head, or is it in the block?