Hydralic Clutch bleeding

[gharmon]

Forgive me for not searching more but i'm really in a bind for time.

I installed a junkyard tranny into this truck I just bought (94 supercab 3.0 5 speed) and once I got it in the clutch was working fine. I had been trying to fix the exhaust as the people I bought it from cut it off in the most f'ed up places. As I was trying to cut the exhuast pipe I zip tied the hydralic line to the exhaust above it keep me from hitting it with my cutoff tool.

Like a dumb ass I forgot and cranked the damn truck.
Well you know what happened, it burned the line into two pieces. I got a new line and have ran 2 cans of fluild throught this thing trying to bleed it. It flows a steady stream at the bleeder valve. It also shoots a steady stream when you release the bleeder vavle with the pedal pushed in (i.e. when bleeding).

It has absolutely no resistance at the pedal when pushed in.


Any ideas what is wrong?

Thanks,

Gerald

 

[adsm08]

I know air can get trapped at the bottom of the master cylinder. Usually taking it out and turning it upside down works, but I'm trying to figure out a pressure bleeder for the clutch system.

 

[gharmon]

Nope that wasn't it. Okay Most of my experience with clutches is with cable operated (5.0 owner for years). It mentions in the manual that no air enters the system with the quick disconnect fittings but with my burning into like that the quick disconnects fitting was still in and thus leaving that line open allowing air to enter.

Okay so that i understand this thing, when you install tranny onto the engine the slave cylinder would be under pressure big spring collapsed thus when you push the pedal the slave cylinder pushes against the pressure plate fingers to release clutch correct?

When the line burned into and the slave cylinder emptied of all fluid (cause it was under pressure from being against the pressure plate shouldn't the slave cylinder just pump back up tight as I bleed the system?

It seems as when you pump the pedal it should push fluid in and refill the slave cylind or it's lost fluid til it's back up to full capacity at which point it should then push the pressure plate to release the clutch?

It seems that as I pump it in it just pushes right back out upon release of pedal kinda like a bad one-way check valve?

Do I need to pull the tranny back a few inches to let the slave cylinder "refill with fluid as I pump it up with the pedal?


I have an extra slave cylnder that I hooked up just to watch how the fluid works. I disconnected from the one in the tranny and hooked it to my extra one while having someone pump the pedal. It just pumped the slave cylinder up tight and seemed to do what i thought it should do. Alsothe quick disconnect got extremely tight (like I think it should). When I hook it up to the one that's in the tranny the quick disconnect never really get tight? I can push the disconnect in and out about 1/4" while it should be tight.

Am I looking at this the wrong way?

I realize no one is probably going to read this as it's so long but hoping for some help.

Thanks,

Gerald

 

[CamoRanger94]

close off the vavle and just sit and pump the pedal mine when i did my tranny swap literally took 10 in of pumping eventually it builds pressure then open the valve close it then pump it again till it builds pressure and your good

 

[db796]

close off the vavle and just sit and pump the pedal mine when i did my tranny swap literally took 10 in of pumping eventually it builds pressure then open the valve close it then pump it again till it builds pressure and your good

thats how i did mine...

 

[Elutheros]

Could be an air bubble in the new line. Watch the video at this link and it may help you figure out where the problem is and how to fix it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc

 

[94 lngbd]

Dido to the video that Elutheros mentions

 

[kryptonitecb]

I used a clear line(go to a pet store and get clear air hose used for fish tanks) hook that up to the nipple on the slave cylinder. Have someone help you pump the clutch and bleed the same way you would your brakes. The hose allows you to see the bubbles in the fluid and know when to keep going or stop. Once no more bubbles come out of the slave you're done. I also use this on brakes cause its the same principle. My buddies give me shit but I was able to bleed the clutch in 20 min doing this, took my friend who made fun of me 3 hours to do his a few years back.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[scotts90ranger]

if you follow the youtube thing and still have a little bit of a squishy pedal, push the pedal all the way to the floor then slip your foot off, do that a few times and it will work the last of the bubbles out of the master cylinder, if the air is in the slave cylinder gravity bleed it a bit. A cheaper source for the clear hose is the hardware store

 

[veefer800canuck]

I got mine done by bleeding the conventional way, then removing the piston from the master cylinder inside the truck ever so slightly to allow fluid out the end.

Take the rod off the pedal, remove the circlip that holds the piston in the bore, then carefully slide the piston out of the bore just a smidgen until fluid exits the bore, then quickly stuff it back in, replace the circlip and reconnect the rod to the pedal.

Because the master cylinder is sloped upwards inside the cab, air hides at the top side and it's almost impossible to get out.

 

[Andy D]

The new clutch master and slave came with bleeding instructions similar to ADSM08's advice. It was easy and took only a 1/2 hour or so. Tip the MC and gravity bleed the line by holding in the check valve at the connector. Plug it into the slave, put a clear tube on the bleeder . Rig an air lock just like for brakes. Pump the pedal a few times. Any air left in the system will burp into the reservoir eventually. When I replaced the worn out disc, I bowed to popular opinion, and replaced everything from the rear main seal to the swing arm. The truck shifts like a dream. OTOH, before the R+R, it shifted fine too, just wouldnt go anywhere when I pushed the skinny pedal.

 

[veefer800canuck]

 

[88Turbo]

When I did mine (new clutch line and slave), I completly removed the whole master cylinder and resivoir then went on with a bench bleed. It worked great then after the line was installed I did the basic gravity bleed with a clear line for about 5 minutes. Good solid clutch on her now. I was very pleased with the work I did being very uneducated on mechanics (I work as a carpenter). So this could be a solution.

 

[adsm08]

The best way to do it is to have everything out of the truck, put it together and turn it all upside down and bleed it. I just got mine fixed form this exact issue yesterday. Just got it running today.

I ended up just using a vacuum pump. It still isn't perfect, but I think it's my firewall issues and not an actual hydraulic issue since the pedal play is correct and it goes into gear ok (have to wiggle it a hair, but I know my 1 and R syncs are damaged from a previous failure and the rails are messed up from having no bushings for a while) but it is working.

 

[kunar]

if you have access to a pressure bleeder, thats the way to go for sure. motive products makes a nice one. they also sell a cap that fits our reservoirs. screw it on and pressurize the system, loosen the bleeder and pump the crap out of the pedal. should only take you a few mins.