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Pyromancer
Active Member
The short answer is that you can just get a new style electrical connector from a 95+, replace the connector on your 94 or 95, get a 123mm shaft synchronizer (I got a Spectra FD36, listed for a 96), and follow the directions for installing a synchronizer in a 95+ here. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-camshaft-position-sensor-cmp-3-0l-4-0l-5-0l-engines/
Why you might want to do this.
1.) The newer style synchronizers allow you to replace the camshaft sensor instead of replacing the whole synchronizer assembly. (My synchro was fine my sensor failed, and I couldn't find a good one in the junkyard.)
2.) The newer style synchronizers are much cheaper! It was less than $20 for the one I purchased compared to $100+ for the older 94 style.
3.) Install procedure is much easier, does not require marking crank pulleys and multi-meter probing sensors thanks to the synronizer positioning tool.
I had read on a few other forums that doing this upgrade was possibly, but I could not find a good write up on it. With the price of the newer style synchronizer being so much lower, and thinking how much nicer it would be to just replace the sensor if it failed in the future, instead of having to take the intake off and everything involved in replacing the whole unit, I decided to give it a go.
While there are differences in these units, the position of the gears, sealing O-ring, and the pickup for the oil pump match. Again this is for a 123mm, 96 synchronizer. It drops in just like the old one and has not leaked on me at all. I'm not sure if the 132mm units would drop in just as easily.
A note on getting the old unit out, mine did not want to come out easily I read that others had also had this issue and had used slide hammers. I used a piece of paracord to get a better grip and gave it a tug which worked great! Obviously this post is skipping everything about removing the intake to get to this step. Others have already done great write ups on this and I would recommend just following one of those.
Really the only change from directions for installing a Synchro in a 95+ you will need is swapping to the newer style plug to use the newer style synchronizer. I found a 96 explorer in a junkyard and snipped the plug, they charged me $1 for it. Wiring it in is easy as well, the wire colors are a match to the old plug.
I used heat shrink solder connections, but however you want to wire it in to replace your old connector, crimps, solder, do you.
When installing the Synchronizer all you need to do is follow the directions for installing a synchronizer in a 95+. Set engine to TDC, install the positioning tool on the synchronizer, align to 60 deg, drop it in, and tighten the retainer. Again full directions are here, https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-camshaft-position-sensor-cmp-3-0l-4-0l-5-0l-engines/ other then needing to replace your old style electrical connector, directions are the same.
The rest of this is not required for this job!
As I was going into this a little blind I wanted to be absolutely sure the synchronizer was going to behave like the older style unit, and my timing was going to be the same. Looking at the rotating flag in the units I could see they were the same ruffly half the diameter of the synronizer, so that would not affect timing. But, I wanted to be sure they would trigger at the same time. I pulled the fan to get a better view, measured 34mm from the TDC mark on the crank and marked were the trip point for the synchronize should be. (For more information on why I would do that, I would recommend reading the install directions for a 94-95 window style cam synchronizer.) I then backprobed connectors to connect my multi-meter to ground and the center wire from the synchronize and started turning the crank by hand with the keys on but engine off. As I just passed the 34mm mark I could see the voltage drop from 12v to .9v, proving timing was correct and the synchronizer should behave just as a 94-95 unit. Also proving I had no meed to remove my fan and back probed wires...
New Synchro has been in since before Christmas, and I have had no issues with how the truck runs, plus no leaks. Hoping this helps someone else out in the future who has questions on if it is possibly to do this upgrade, and how to do it. Again this last bit with the multi-meter is not required at all. If you use the positioning tool and drop in the new unit per directions for a newer style unit, your timing will be fine. There is no reason to pull belts, back probe, etc.
Why you might want to do this.
1.) The newer style synchronizers allow you to replace the camshaft sensor instead of replacing the whole synchronizer assembly. (My synchro was fine my sensor failed, and I couldn't find a good one in the junkyard.)
2.) The newer style synchronizers are much cheaper! It was less than $20 for the one I purchased compared to $100+ for the older 94 style.
3.) Install procedure is much easier, does not require marking crank pulleys and multi-meter probing sensors thanks to the synronizer positioning tool.
I had read on a few other forums that doing this upgrade was possibly, but I could not find a good write up on it. With the price of the newer style synchronizer being so much lower, and thinking how much nicer it would be to just replace the sensor if it failed in the future, instead of having to take the intake off and everything involved in replacing the whole unit, I decided to give it a go.
While there are differences in these units, the position of the gears, sealing O-ring, and the pickup for the oil pump match. Again this is for a 123mm, 96 synchronizer. It drops in just like the old one and has not leaked on me at all. I'm not sure if the 132mm units would drop in just as easily.
A note on getting the old unit out, mine did not want to come out easily I read that others had also had this issue and had used slide hammers. I used a piece of paracord to get a better grip and gave it a tug which worked great! Obviously this post is skipping everything about removing the intake to get to this step. Others have already done great write ups on this and I would recommend just following one of those.
Really the only change from directions for installing a Synchro in a 95+ you will need is swapping to the newer style plug to use the newer style synchronizer. I found a 96 explorer in a junkyard and snipped the plug, they charged me $1 for it. Wiring it in is easy as well, the wire colors are a match to the old plug.
I used heat shrink solder connections, but however you want to wire it in to replace your old connector, crimps, solder, do you.
When installing the Synchronizer all you need to do is follow the directions for installing a synchronizer in a 95+. Set engine to TDC, install the positioning tool on the synchronizer, align to 60 deg, drop it in, and tighten the retainer. Again full directions are here, https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-camshaft-position-sensor-cmp-3-0l-4-0l-5-0l-engines/ other then needing to replace your old style electrical connector, directions are the same.
The rest of this is not required for this job!
As I was going into this a little blind I wanted to be absolutely sure the synchronizer was going to behave like the older style unit, and my timing was going to be the same. Looking at the rotating flag in the units I could see they were the same ruffly half the diameter of the synronizer, so that would not affect timing. But, I wanted to be sure they would trigger at the same time. I pulled the fan to get a better view, measured 34mm from the TDC mark on the crank and marked were the trip point for the synchronize should be. (For more information on why I would do that, I would recommend reading the install directions for a 94-95 window style cam synchronizer.) I then backprobed connectors to connect my multi-meter to ground and the center wire from the synchronize and started turning the crank by hand with the keys on but engine off. As I just passed the 34mm mark I could see the voltage drop from 12v to .9v, proving timing was correct and the synchronizer should behave just as a 94-95 unit. Also proving I had no meed to remove my fan and back probed wires...
New Synchro has been in since before Christmas, and I have had no issues with how the truck runs, plus no leaks. Hoping this helps someone else out in the future who has questions on if it is possibly to do this upgrade, and how to do it. Again this last bit with the multi-meter is not required at all. If you use the positioning tool and drop in the new unit per directions for a newer style unit, your timing will be fine. There is no reason to pull belts, back probe, etc.
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