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How to soften the clutch pedal?


i just run the crap at autozone for street drivers. i busted a few disk centers over the years....but i was getting radical in low range and max rpm.
 
Im guessing that what I installed was crap or I did something during install that caused a hard pedal. Worked great for 10 months or so before firewall cracked. I love working on my truck but rather spend my time and $$$ on something else than rework.
 
Still waiting for some feedback on a clutch recommendation.

I use LUK only, and can recommend that brand if you're looking for an OEM performing set up.
 
The F models had a similar problem in the late 80s and Ford made a reinforcement plate to correct the problem.
 
The Russell fittings. I used another on the slave end, I welded it to the original stub that fits the slave. See:

 
Over the weekend I braced the MC mounting from the inside by running a longer mounting through the lower hole, then bolting in a metal bracket. This should prevent the firewall crack from propagating.
I confirmed clutch was dragging by jacking up the rear tires and putting tranny into first gear and letting off the brake. Doing this results in rear wheels spinning indicating clutch not fully releasing.
So my next step will be replacing the clutch line line to see if that solves the problem. If clutch still dragging after replacing the clutch line then I will drop tranny and replace the slave and clutch.

Ranger clutch MC backing plate.jpg


The plates sticking out from underneath are needed to bridge the gap caused by the factory nut welded to the firewall. Just need to be trimmed. Clutch pedal comes close to interfering with the added brace so may need to come up with another solution if it ends up being a problem while driving.
 
The Russell fittings. I used another on the slave end, I welded it to the original stub that fits the slave. See:




the t56 long unit may be a way to get onto the ranger slave....chuck it in the drill or drill press and flapper wheel the first part of the flats off.

i run that and the remote bleeder on young bobs Z

works decent.




i was under the impression this worked on the rbv style...it looks short to me.


 
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I finally was able to get enough time to remove the tranny for a clutch inspection. What I found was that the pilot bearing was completely trashed. Im guessing that this was the cause of my grabbing clutch and difficulty in getting into gear. Why did the pilot bearing fail after 12 months of use? Would installing it backwards (rubber seal towards motor) cause this? I have a new pilot bearing that came in my new LUK clutch kit. It appears to have been pre-greased from the manufacturer. Is it recommended to add more grease or just install with what was provided?
 
I installed the new LUK organic clutch/slave and the difference is amazing. Works perfect. The pedal is much softer than the kevlar disc I had in there before. I probably wouldn't have cracked my firewall with this setup. When I took top cover off tranny I also discovered it was super low on fluid which probably added to the hard shifting. Everything is back together and working flawlessly. thanks all.
 

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