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How to snug up wheel bearings?


rangerin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
213
City
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Manual
I'm gonna be changing my front bearings on my 2WD ranger. How do yall snug your bearings up? I've heard to screw the nut till it stops then back of 1/4 turn. Just want to make sure that's right.
 
I don't know about 2wd. I was just working on my 87 BII today 4WD with manual locking hubs. The shop manual said to torque the locknut to 35 ft-lb to seat the bearing. Rotate it back and forth. Then back it off a quarter turn (it is very loose at that point). Then torque it to 16 in-lb (Note in-lb, not ft-lb so really very little torque). And then put on the lock washer, rotating the locknut as necessary so the pin falls in a hole in the lock washer.

This section of the manual (87 manual) only listed manual hubs and auto locking hubs, not 2WD.

I'll take a look and see if I can find what it says about 2WD. I expect it isn't too different, but I dunno.
 
Found it. It looks quite a bit different since there is a cotter pin which isn't in the 4WD front axel.

Keep in mind I am looking at the 87 manual, the 84 could differ.

It says while rotating the wheel adjust to 17 to 25 ft-lb to seat the bearing.

The back off a half turn

Then tighten to 18-20 in-lb (not ft-lb)

Install the retainer and new cotter pin.
 
Last edited:
Found it. It looks quite a bit different since there is a cotter pin which isn't in the 4WD front axel.

Keep in mind I am looking at the 87 manual, the 84 could differ.

It says while rotating the wheel adjust to 17 to 25 ft-lb to seat the bearing.

The back of a half turn

Then tighten to 18-20 in-lb (not ft-lb)

Install the retainer and new cotter pin.


Awesome, thanks.

Now, my torque wrench only goes down to 30 ft-lb since it's meant for lugs. "About" how snug is 17-25 ft-lb and 18-20 in-lb?

Would it be fine to snug it up lightly to seat the bearing, back it off, then tighten it just till it starts to bottom out?
 
Last edited:
Awesome, thanks.

Now, my torque wrench only goes down to 30 ft-lb since it's meant for lugs. "About" how snug is 17-25 ft-lb and 18-20 in-lb?

Would it be fine to snug it up lightly to seat the bearing, back it off, then tighten it just till it starts to bottom out?

I don't know how precise all this has to be.

I have two torque wrenches. One for low range in-lb and other for ft-lb.

My in-lb only went down to 20 in-lb, and I had to set for 16 in-lb. Since it said to turn it to nearest lock-washer slot, I figured it couldn't' be too precise and just dialed it below 20 in-lb by 4 in-lb figuring while not rated to work that low it probably be close enough.

I don't know if you could do something similar with your 30 ft-lb minimum. In any case for the 17-25 ft-lb, my personal guess, since it is only for seating the bearings, that if you know what 30 ft-lb "feels" like you can turn the rotor as you tighten it and if you got as high as 30 ft-lb, you probably aren't going to damage the bearings.

As far as the 18-20 in-lb, that is VERY light. It is about 1.6 ft-lb. There is potential you can get hand tight more than that. Someone with more practical experience may be able to offer more.

This was the first time I messed with a wheel bearing in 30 years.
 
Awesome, thanks.

Now, my torque wrench only goes down to 30 ft-lb since it's meant for lugs. "About" how snug is 17-25 ft-lb and 18-20 in-lb?

Would it be fine to snug it up lightly to seat the bearing, back it off, then tighten it just till it starts to bottom out?

Both of my books for your truck says 17-25 ft lb for pre-load, then 10-15 in lbs for final on 83-88 2wd.
 
Easy way... Lock it on with a rolling torque (rotating while tightening), and the whole assy will stay together when its seated (you take the nut back off, and the bearing doesn't move).

I usually "torque" it to when it doesn't roll smoothly anymore then back off, do it again, back off, and give it the final light torque by feel. And at least IMO, tighten to the next slot for the keyway to meet up or cotter pin, or whatever you use if it doesn't line up originally.
 
My book says 10-15 inch lbs for 83-89 but I just use the rolling method. After you pretorque to seat the races then back off and spin the wheel at the same time tighten the nut as soon as the wheel no longer spins free it should be good enough just line the keeper up to the hole and if you have to tweak it tight to put the cotter in.
 
tighten till snug, then back off till the cotter key will go in. if new bearings and races, don't back off until about 20 miles. then back off, and adjust again
 
Check the hub/wheel after you've driven around a little...if you can't hold your hand on it, you got the bearing too tight.
 

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