How to re-wire to get altenator charging.

[2drxploder]

I have a 98 expo 5.0 with all accessories, swapped into my ranger. I am currently swapping to sniper efi. I removed the whole body to engine harness. I need to figure how to wire altentor to get it charging again. The only wire I have left connected to altentor is the big gauge wire right now. Thank you in advance. Also in lamens terms please, I am not an electrical engineer

 

[RonD]

Alternator has B+ terminal, stud/nut, for the larger wire, it is connected to Battery Positive via a fuse or fusible link

There is often a smaller battery positive cable hooked to a post on inner fender or a MEGA fuse on the outside of engine fuse box
That's where the B+ wire connects, needs to be fused for sure, MEGA fuse 125 or 175amp are easiest to work with but fusible links can be used as well

The 3 wire connector has:
Yellow wire that is also fused and has 12volt all the time, this can be connected to B+ via a 15amp inline fuse
Engine fuse box should have ALT SYS fuse, 15amp, that is for the yellow wire

Green wire is the ON/OFF switch for alternator, it comes from the Battery Light in the dash/cluster, only has 12v with key on, or alternator will drain the battery key off

White wire, jumper to single spade terminal on the back of alternator

 

[2drxploder]

Thanks @RonD. I also need to identify a hot wire during key on and cranking from this connector. Any suggestions? The group to the top of pick is all im using at the moment. 2 jumped together for clutch switch, 2 going down to t5 for reverse, and the yellow and green wires for charging.

 

[RonD]

Rangers used a purple/orange stripe wire as key on 12v to reverse light switch
Black/pink wire out of switch to reverse light bulbs
I can see those on that connector

Starter activation is a little more convoluted, because of different alarm options
Pink
White/pink
Red/blue
Tan/red
All used for the different options

I do see a tan/red on 31
And a few Pinks

No white/pink, although 40 may have a stripe I can't see
No red/blue that I can see

 

[2drxploder]

I got the reverse, alternator and clutch switch sorted ot already. I have the motor set to tdc for distributor install. So I dont want to spin motor over at the moment to test for hot wire during key-on and cranking. Was originally planned the green for alternator b4 I realized that was going to alternator. So all I need figure out is one hot wire during key on and cranking for a trigger wire to sniper efi. The rest of that plug will be depinned and eliminated.

 

[RonD]

Pull the starter relay in the engine fuse box, so starter motor won't activate
Then use a test light to see which wire has 12v only when key is turned to START
Neutral switches need to be connected and working, or bypassed

Key on power for engine systems comes from engine fuse box PCM relay only, not ignition switch
Usually a red wire found at injectors, EGR/EVAP solenoids, IAC Valve, and of course the power wire for the original PCM

Fuel injection computers shouldn't need a "start" wire, just a key on wire, computer starts spark and/or injector pulses when it has a timing signal from distributor or Crank sensor, i.e. crank/engine is turning

 

[2drxploder]

All great info. Thanks rond. I have heard of ppl having trouble from not following holleys instructions when it comes to wiring. Instructions state clearly that trigger wire must have +12v at run position AND during cranking. I was hoping to use the power wire to original pcm, just don't know which one that is. I plan using a 4 pole relay on this wire to ensure it gets "clean power". I did not think about pulling relay.