How to prevent dome lights from staying on while the door is open?

[CrabGuy]

When doing tint on my windows last week I left both doors open until I was done. I also left the KO so I could cycle the windows but no accessories were on. After just 4 hours my battery was drained enough I needed a charger. The battery load tests just fine when fully charged. Any suggestions on how to override the interior light in this situation? On my 2011 Ford I can override by hitting the remote lock with the doors open. I have a feeling I'll need to add a separate switch or just remove the bulbs every time. There has to be an easier way?

 

[Dirtman]

Close the door latches. Just stick a screw driver in there and rotate the latch shut. The dome light switches are in the door on those latches. Latch shut, no dome light.

Just remember to open them again before you slam the door shut or it will just go BANG and slam back at you... Ask me how I know this.

Or pull the fuse for the interior lights, I dunno what else is on that circuit though. I don't think the power windows are part of that circuit.

 

[CrabGuy]

Thanks, I'll just pop the 15A fuse #13 in the side panel (interior lights/horn). I'm old and would for sure forget to reopen the door latch before slamming the door.

 

[Dirtman]

Thanks, I'll just pop the 15A fuse #13 in the side panel (interior lights/horn). I'm old and would for sure forget to reopen the door latch before slamming the door.

I forget to open the latches everytime I do a parasitic draw test. I always slam the door with the latches closed... I'm surprised i haven't broken a door yet.

 

[RonD]

"Battery tested fine".........need some numbers for that

After truck sits over night(doors closed, lol) pop the hood and test battery voltage BEFORE starting

12.8v is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or less is a done battery

You can only get a good "at rest" battery voltage after battery has been sitting for 6 or more hours

Start engine
Battery voltage should now be 14.2-14.8volts
Alternator is OK
After driving it but BEFORE shutting engine off, pop the hood and test voltage, 13.5v to 13.8volt is expected
Voltage regulator is working
Or letting it idle for 5minutes and you should see under 14volts if regulator is working

 

[Dirtman]

Wait... You have a 2004, the battery saver relay should have shut the dome light off anyway after about 30 minutes? The battery saver turns everything but the KAM and radio off if nothing is touched.

 

[RonD]

Battery saver relay(SJB) waits until doors are closed before 30min timer starts

 

[Dirtman]

Battery saver relay(SJB) waits until doors are closed before 30min timer starts

K wasn't sure on that but could have sworn my 2009's dome light shuts off after a while even with the door open. But I may be making that up...

I know the battery saver relay is a touchy little critter, it "wakes up" if you sneeze loud enough.

 

[CrabGuy]

"Battery tested fine".........need some numbers for that

After truck sits over night(doors closed, lol) pop the hood and test battery voltage BEFORE starting

12.8v is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or less is a done battery

You can only get a good "at rest" battery voltage after battery has been sitting for 6 or more hours

Start engine
Battery voltage should now be 14.2-14.8volts
Alternator is OK
After driving it but BEFORE shutting engine off, pop the hood and test voltage, 13.5v to 13.8volt is expected
Voltage regulator is working
Or letting it idle for 5minutes and you should see under 14volts if regulator is working

I checked those voltages.
12.28V @ rest
14.35V after right after starting from cold (high idle)
14.21V after 8 min. idling (low idle)

Looks like my battery might be getting a bit long in the tooth or my short 5 mile local trips aren't bringing it to a full charge? It's a Duracell no maintenance type. It never has issues starting so I'll see how the resting voltage is after putting my floating charger on it overnight and check again in the morning or after a 500 mile trip next week. Thanks for the input, good info.

 

[RonD]

Yes, battery is marginal and explains the 4 hour dome light thing
Also the 14.2v after 8min, battery is not charging up so alternator/regulator needs to stay above 14

 

[CrabGuy]

Yes, battery is marginal and explains the 4 hour dome light thing
Also the 14.2v after 8min, battery is not charging up so alternator/regulator needs to stay above 14

Thanks Ron. You are correct! I gave it a full charge last night and measured the following.

5 Min. after full charge: 12.85V
After sitting overnight: 12.22V
With dome light on: 12.05V

Heading out right now for a new battery and possible LED bulb swap. I can't afford to be stranded when batteries aren't that expensive.

 

[RonD]

Good stuff

Yes, when battery gets under 12.3v a COLD morning temp would get you the dreaded "click, click, click"
And of course it will drain below usable START voltage faster i.e. the dome light on

 

[cbxer55]

My 98, for some reason, whenever it rains, my dome light comes on and stays on for hours. So I just pulled the bulb out of the fixture. Never needed it anyways.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I just pulled the bulbs and clipped a flashlight to my visor.