How to gut a Deere...

[Will]

My MC is coming back together. Spent a few days on it. I should be able to make a video soon.

VIDEO

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

My MC is coming back together. Spent a few days on it. I should be able to make a video soon.

VIDEO

Looks like you beat the B getting back into action. It is weird, the A, B, D, G, and H all kinda sound the same, not identical but you can tell they are related, but the M family has a completely different beat too them, they are much smoother. I will have to make a video of the B when we get it going again, it has a neat little chant with the straightpipe.

We eventually got the wedge part to come off, the day after we heated it and let it cool it came off with chisols between the fingers again. Had the local machine shop make a shim to adjust for some wear on the axle shaft, so now the axles are not almost rubbing with the RH shaft nut screwed in past the cotter pin hole like it was before. Put the wheel back on it last weekend so I have a presentable picture of it.

You can see one of the many distractions sitting beside it, dad's Case 800 blew out the front headgasket and was blowing oil and leaking compression out of the front of the engine. Of course while the heads are off might as well do the valves too... it just keeps adding up.

For the left side of the B we are going to cheat. We are going to make a dolly similar to what dad has the shop (but a lot lighter duty) out of a rather rinky dink engine stand and slide it under the raised wheel, chain the wheel to it, and yank the wheel shaft and all out at the same time rather than another week long saga of fighting with the center. Of course to do this, we need the Case out of the way...

 

[Will]

I don't know if wresting those tires or busting track is worse. A track is like a 500# slinky. I didn't feel like spending a week turning the idler wheel adjustment nuts with a big wrench so I used a pair of come-alongs to pull the idler back so I could get the track back on. And a few ratchet straps were handly to help pull the track over and hold it so I could get the pin in.

Funny thing. You are supposed to put a 4x4 under the the top of the track to hold it up and keep the slack out. I tacked a couple pieces of 2x4 in there. After I got it back together and was moving it out of the barn, I forgot to remove the 2x4s. One of them had popped out. The other stayed in the track and went around the idler. I didn't even notice it--it turned the 2x4 into a limp noodle, crushing it and winding it through like it was a bit of straw. Took me a bit to get the chunks out of there.

This is a blast to drive. It's slow but is very deliberate. I tried to get some more video but the girls were all driving it and I never got the chance to get the camera out. I sat on the hydraulic tank and ran the main clutch while they pulled the levers to steer. We're going to do some leveling at the inlaws cabin and I'll try again then.

 

[jdm_farmboy]

My family's got an old steam engine, two threshers, Farmall H, Farmall M, and Farmall F-12. The H planted and cultivated sweet corn this year, and is capable of running the 60 ft auger. The M usually runs the hay rake, and the square baler. Then for big work we have an International 966, a 1066, and a 4166.

 

[Explorin94]

Do them things run wild where you're from? I've have never gutted a deer that looked like that? The ones around here have 4 legs and are brown with white tails.

 

[Will]

And you'd rather hit one of the furry ones with your car than that green one.

 

[Explorin94]

And you'd rather hit one of the furry ones with your car than that green one.

You have a valid point there Will! You're a fart smeller!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I don't know if wresting those tires or busting track is worse. A track is like a 500# slinky. I didn't feel like spending a week turning the idler wheel adjustment nuts with a big wrench so I used a pair of come-alongs to pull the idler back so I could get the track back on. And a few ratchet straps were handly to help pull the track over and hold it so I could get the pin in.

These tires are not bad, two people can easily move them around. They have no fluid in them and are pretty narrow so that helps keep the weight down. Big thing is to leave yourself a way out incase the tire decides to lay over on its side... I think it would hurt to have one fall on you.

Dad has frames welded on two pallet jacks at the shop to move tires around on bigger tractors, loaded or otherwise. Just chain the tires to the frame and you can roll them wherever you want with however much of the tractor up to the transmission case you want still attached. That is what we are wanting to replicate with the old engine hoist for the B so we can pull the wheel out with the axle shaft still on it.

 

[Will]

The trick is to make sure you keep your lips over your teeth when messing with these things.

We're getting ready to build a pond so I've been messing with my other two machines--repacked a cylinder and replaced a seal on a spool valve on my hoe and now am adjusting the chains on my Bobcat. This thing has almost as many chains in it as a SOHC 4.0 Ford.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The trick is to make sure you keep your lips over your teeth when messing with these things.

We're getting ready to build a pond so I've been messing with my other two machines--repacked a cylinder and replaced a seal on a spool valve on my hoe and now am adjusting the chains on my Bobcat. This thing has almost as many chains in it as a SOHC 4.0 Ford.

Jeesh, looks like a bad place to forget a wrench

Is that down inside of it, like under the seat? I drove a 763 and a S120 when I worked at a hardware store in high school and college a little, but never had to work on one. They were fun little buggers to play around in.

I too have been working on other things until dad gets done playing with the heads on his Case.

I got a little 6' sickle mower for my C a couple years ago at a sale, never got around to getting it going. When they loaded it they droppedm it, cracking the frame and breaking the pitman stick. The pitman stick was junk anyway, but I needed the length so I could cut down a blank one to fit. In their defence it is a unnaturally awkward and unbalanced creature to move, my rear tire didn't look low until after I had put the mower on. I have since welded the frame back up, taken off a couple bad guards, and sourced a hub and pulley to drive it that didn't come with it. All I have left is to get the pulley and hub welded together, figure out how long of a stick I need, and get the bar unstuck. I don't have any pictures other than the day I drug it out of the weeds and bolted it in though.

Cracked frame, it was really pretty thin stuff for as heavy as the thing is.

Busted pitman stick, it is spongy now and had broken again under its own weight.

Rear drive setup, I hadn't found the hub yet. The pulley goes on the PTO shaft under the light, I had to move the light and take the shield off.

S-Foil locked in attack position...

Don't think for a second I do all of this by myself either:

 

[Will]

I had a David Brown 2-wheel tractor with a little sickle mower on it. It didn't run and it was old and ugly and missing the hood. But the gearbox was good and the mower parts were complete. I found an enthusiast site for those things and gave it to the first person that said they would come get it. Thought about getting it going and using it to push snow but living on a steep hill--no.

That panel isunder your legs/feet. The seat is off to the right. This is clutch drive, no hydrostatic like the ones you used. There is a front and rear clutch for each side--the 4 wheel looking things in the middle--you can see the friction plate sandwiched between the two steels. Putting a handle forward engages the clutch in the front which activates the outside set of smaller chains forward. Pulling them back engages the rear set of clutches and disengaes the fronts, making the inside pair of chains go backwards. The front/rear pairs are connected to the big set of drive chains.

It's not very good compared to a hydrostatic machine. This has two speeds--slow and slower, and you have to get off, turn it off and manually move a drivebelt to change speeds. I leave it in low anyway. My dad has a hydrostatic one the same size. It's night and day. But, still, these are the handiest thing in the world and I wouldn't give it up even if I lived in town. I have forks and a blade in addition to the bucket.

 

[WNY964x4]

i helped my buddy the other day at his farm.

the first job we work on was the water pump on his Oliver 1600 , that was a fun job , really wasnt to bad , just kind opf a tight squeese in the fron , and we had yet to clean the area where it mounted when we checked to make sure we knew which way it went and to make sure the water passages lined up ( he tried to put it in upside down )

the other job was the main drive belt on their 67 IH 205 Combine , it was this big triple V-belt that was buried behind all these other belts , and we had to measure it with kite string and medical tape. we mesured it at 166 inches , his dad cut it off and it was 161 , the belt had to be shipped out of ohio , it cost $145

i have way to much fun when i hang out with this kid