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How to Change Your Fuel Filter


I have that tool also from NAPA.

Even when I have it bottomed out on the hose nipple the fuel filter still will not budge.

No matter which tool I have used, I get it bottomed out within the nipple, the fuel filter will not come out.

Thanks for the input however.

I had a hard time with the scissor type disconnect tool as well (pictured below)

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I found that the plastic clip tools that nobody else seems to like actually worked much better for me. I like them because I can wrap my fingers around both sides of the line and pull much easier than the scissor type which put uneven pressure on the clip. I bought the kit sold at Autozone for $9.99

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you can get them at this link:

[URL="http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp;jsessionid=10BD442E69F045DFF726EA9E8C0D4B89.diyprod4-b2c7?counter=2&categoryDisplayName=Tools&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=2356_0_0_&productId=2356&sortType=&parentId=6-10&filterByKeyWord=fuel+lilter+tool&categoryNValue=100006&navValue=101529&fromWhere=&itemId=1529-10&displayName=Line+Disconnect+Tool&store=4504&skuDisplayName=5/16,+3/8,+1/2,+5/8,+3/4+and+7/8+in.+A/C+and+fuel+line+disconnect+tool+set&brandName=OEM]Line Disconnect Tool[/URL]

Try turning the filter itself to be sure that it is free from the fuel lines at both ends and not corroded or rusted on. Also try a little WD-40 or PB Blaster in each end just to make it easier for the tool to slide under the line.

Hope this helps Good Luck!
 
Forget the special tools. Im a mechanic by trade and drive a 98 ranger 2.5 2wd 5sp. I ENJOY working on my car, and alot of things get done that never even needed it...but how else are you going to find out right?!? Heres what i have found to be the best way to remove a fuel filter on a ranger explorer with the embossed o ring style quick disconnect...

Simply cut a strip from a piece of plastic, i used a negative battery protector but a milk carton or similar would work fine; you want it to be a little less the a quarter inch thick, just enought to fit between the filter and fuel line.

it will need to be about a half inch wide by inch long. simply wrap it around the fuel filter neck and push into the line with a pair of needle nose pliers. push the filter ON as you do this. then pull the filter from the line. all that is needed is something softer then metal to insert between the fuel line and the embossed o ring on the filter. look at your new one, you will know excatly what i mean. if you need pics pm me
 
with all do respect to the Mechanic. I think for the average or below average novice mechanic the tools are very helpful. I used a metal 5/16 one. the little ones that look like mini umbrella stands work good also
 
Hey modelageek, thanks for getting me motivated to put my stats up. its like an online dating site for truck nuts. Anyways...Tools have their place. most always its in my right hand as i work hard and getting someone back on the road. i just hate to see when people struggle with a task (even with proper tools) becasue they refuse to think outside the box. I was just posting as a...In case all else fails. Its always good to keep some tricks up your sleeves.:icon_thumby:
 
Copy that Dude. Glad I helped you see the lite. Motor on padre. 3 thumbs up.
 
The engine side is the most difficult. However, with this knowledge it can be easily accomplished without any special Ford tools.

Cut the fuel filter off leaving as much as possible stem (next to the filter) on the engine side on the filter.

You will see 4 retaining clips, these all need to be pushed at once to release the stem from the old filter.

To do this, I used a 5/16 deep well 6 sided socket, pushed in to depress the 4 clips, and with hands on the socket crank it side ways to put resistance on the filter stub and the socket then pull and it comes out nicely.

This advice is gold, I wish I knew it before spending an hour + doing this...
 
on my 90 ranger,the fuel filter was very easy,it just 2 plastic clips on it shaped like "U" at each side ,which were very easy to pop out with a flat blade screwdriver
 
the proper way to bleed off your fuel pressure is to release it at the fuel rail. using the green capped bleed / air purge valve..
 
the proper way to bleed off your fuel pressure is to release it at the fuel rail. using the green capped bleed / air purge valve..

+1 on the above comment.......................I think all of you people that are using screwdrivers and cutting the fuel filter off with a sawsall are crazy.......the tool cost $10.......then you relieve the pressure and safely remove the filter............gas is flammable .don't mess with it......
 
+1 on the above comment.......................I think all of you people that are using screwdrivers and cutting the fuel filter off with a sawsall are crazy.......the tool cost $10.......then you relieve the pressure and safely remove the filter............gas is flammable .don't mess with it......

A tool I would rather not have to deal with getting for something I do so infrequently. I am not saying it wouldn't work better, but for the moment I was in, driving back to the auto store and picking up a proprietary tool didn't sound pleasing when I knew it could have been done with some questionable creativity.
 
A tool I would rather not have to deal with getting for something I do so infrequently. I am not saying it wouldn't work better, but for the moment I was in, driving back to the auto store and picking up a proprietary tool didn't sound pleasing when I knew it could have been done with some questionable creativity.

Do what you want Pal........You do know Gas is an explosive don't you?
 
I appreciate this info. thanks all.

I had a hard time pulling my filter off my 98 Ranger, 2.5L these past couple days. I finally bought a small aluminum 5/16" filter disconnect tool. (The plastic disconnect tools are a waste of time and the scissor ones did not seem to work well either - although they should have worked fine except for the corrosion.) This time I jammed the disconnect tool in the quick disconnect plug on the tank side, then pulled, wiggled and twisted the filter. Finally, it pulled apart. The spacer ring inside the metal plug came out with the filter. It was corroded firmly on the filter inlet pipe. I pulled the three rings inside the plug out. Now I need to figure out if I need to replace the fuel line.

Without connecting the filter, I connected the battery and turned on the ignition to run the gas out of the tank. (It looked gray in color) The gas only dribbled out of the line. Looks like I have a bad pump.

I have been having problems stalling after starting the motor until the engine warms up. Then it runs okay. I suspected an injector was clogged. I had an engine light - egr, lean fuel mix - and replaced all the parts and ran the tests. All okay, except it still stalled when started cold.

I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks again. Hope my story helps.
 
Old string, but I just did this.

You know, even on the ones that require a "special" tool, you can always just carefully use automotive picks (about 4-6 bucks at walmart) and push the tabs in... or even a good bent nail? OK! Roadside repairs take creative measures. Either way, just an input.
 

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