How to change M5OD input shaft seal?

[ElleShooTiger]

Is this a hard job? Or can I just remove the bearing cover, press the old seal out and put the new one in? And I guess RTV the cover back on?

The trans only has 44k on it, but its been at the salvage yard for about 5 years, some of it sitting outside. The input seal looks ok, but if its easy to change I'll do it now, instead of finding out later its dry-rotted and leaking lol.

 

[vanmor]

Yeah, just take the bearing plate off and replace the seal. Don't remove anything else. Just make sure the shims are back in place and the little plastic vane is on the shaft under the seal. Use just a thin amount of RTV when you put the plate back on.

Oh yeah, you going to need a couple of bolts just a little longer than your slave bolts to lift the plate off. Remove the slave/throw out bearing and use the longer bolts. This way you don't have to pry on the plate. Trust me, it's a lot easier.

 

[AllanD]

Actually the easy way to get the front retainer off after you've removed the
slave and the six bolts
is to pick up the trans by the bellhousing and "bounce" it several times against a a piece of lumber (to protect the output shaft)

There is enough end play that you can use the entire mainshaft assembly as a "drift" to break the bond of the RTV.

And yes, the tailshaft sticks out of a 4x4 trans just enough to allow this to work.

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[ElleShooTiger]

I have a short prybar-like tool, the head is only about 1.5" long so I should be able to use it to pry the plate off. I bought it complete with transfer case, so its wayyyy too heavy to bang around haha.

I have the factory manual on CD, but dont get how the bolts pull it off

 

[4x4junkie]

You need longer bolts having the same thread as the slave bolts.
Tighten the bolts until they bottom out in the holes. This will then lift the plate off the main case.

AllanD's method is much easier than digging through all your bolt bins trying to find a bolt with enough thread length though (and the right thread pitch) for it to thread all the way down.

On mine, the trans merely resting on it's tailshaft was enough to pop the cover off when I leaned downward against the bell. Of course the t-case would have to be removed though.

 

[AllanD]

Seperate the T-case from the trans.

whenever I see someone leaving the Tcase attached to the trans because they think it'll be "easier" I permanatly identify that person in my mind as a masochistic idiot.

The trans with the T-case attached is way too heavy to lift into place with sufficient control to avoid buggering up the clutch disc while trying to align the trans input shaft, clutch and pilot bearing.

Frankly the only bad input seals I've ever seen on mazda transmissions were on transmissions with either broken input shafts (rare) or transmissions with MELTED input gears and in either case replacing it is like replacing the wheelhouse glass on the RMS Titanic.



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