How Long to Redo Front End?

[ClaytonBigsby]

Hi All, I am sure this is all in here somewhere, I do not have the time right now to search it out and am grateful for anyone who can help me.

How long should it take to redo the front end of my 85 BII?
New ball joints, tie rod ends, axle u joints, bearings


Thanks!

 

[Insanejughead]

The biggest factor to consider is the level of rust/seizure on the parts you'll have to disassemble.


My estimation (assuming it all goes without major hiccups) is 4-5 hours.

 

[doorgunner]

The biggest factor to consider is the level of rust/seizure on the parts you'll have to disassemble.


My estimation (assuming it all goes without major hiccups) is 4-5 hours.

add an additional 5 hours for gremlins..................

add 2 more hours for a gravel driveway.............

add another hour for returning the wrong part..........

 

[adsm08]

Figuring for age and rust, at the shop I'd quote the better part of a day, possibly into a second day once you get to aligning it.

In the driveway at home, at least 10 to 12 hours.

 

[Rose2300]

another factor is your skill level and the extent of your knowledge on these trucks. It won't take you the same time as someone else to complete the same job, because no two people are alike. if you want to get technical there are tons of factors to consider when determining the time it takes. I.e. temp out side, the condition of the bolts and old parts, your workspace, tools, hydration level, etc. but in all fairness you should complete it in roughly a similar time as another similarly skilled person.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I would normally figure at least a weekend. But I'm the kind of person that wants to make sure it's all done right.... while it's tore apart I'll do just about everything in the hope that then I will not have to tear it apart again for a good long time.

 

[StephenLewis]

I think what everyone is trying to say is best of luck to ya

 

[Bennybooster]

Judging by your post a long long time....

 

[det107]

The tools, buddy.....Do you have the tools ??
1) Mini-sledge
2) Pickle fork
3) Tie-rod & pitman arm puller
4) C-frame ball joint remover
5) (?) Spring compressor, if needed (?)
6) Assorted sockets, pry bars, etc...
7) Swear jar
you might want to "pimp" the front end w/ paint so I figure at least a weekend-

 

[Insanejughead]

add an additional 5 hours for gremlins..................

add 2 more hours for a gravel driveway.............

add another hour for returning the wrong part..........

The equation for my math has been fixed! Thanks DG!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The tools, buddy.....Do you have the tools ??
1) Mini-sledge
2) Pickle fork
3) Tie-rod & pitman arm puller
4) C-frame ball joint remover
5) (?) Spring compressor, if needed (?)
6) Assorted sockets, pry bars, etc...
7) Swear jar
you might want to "pimp" the front end w/ paint so I figure at least a weekend-

No need for a spring compressor on anything 97 and older (not sure about the newer stuff) Rangers and BIIs.

A torch could be handy though.... last two times I did balljoints, the nuts that hold them on were spherical blobs of rust...

 

[doorgunner]

Figuring for age and rust, at the shop I'd quote the better part of a day, possibly into a second day once you get to aligning it.

In the driveway at home, at least 10 to 12 hours.

12 hours MAX? C'mom ads_.........(ooops...i forgot....you don't have to drive anywhere to return the wrong part)

 

[Andy D]

Thanx for keeping it real guys. A rusty old 4x4 with a bad clutch. What was I thinking ? I am thinking that the 600 $ I spent to buy it is chump change compared what the end cost will be. What grabs me is that it is a logical progression from the 40-60s junker pick ups I had when I was a kid. Only better. So when the clutch job morphed into frame and maaajooor brake repair. I grit my teeth . The job was all stuff I've done on various cars. But I'm a noob so I was feeling my way on the Ranger

After Christmas , I put up a 10x24x10 foot tent in the side yard. I laid down scrap sheets of plywood and backed the Ranger in . I cribbed it with blocks and wood until I had the frame 2 feet in the air. I worked on the project daily. even if all I did was to sweep the dirt off the plywood and shake out the rugs I laid on to drop the trans and stuff. Then I made a frame repair in the LF cab mount area. Then the brake lines etc. then the clutch etc. 3 1/2 months of a very mild winter it took to get it back together

 

[adsm08]

12 hours MAX? C'mom ads_.........(ooops...i forgot....you don't have to drive anywhere to return the wrong part)

Oh, I rarely have to go return the wrong part because I go to Napa with a list of part numbers. It's going back to Napa or work (right next to each other) for the parts/tools I forgot to get the first time. During my axle swap I became accustomed to what I started calling the "6:30 Interruption". Every night, just about 6:30 I'd find something I had to run back to town for.

And 10 to 12 hours is a minimum. This time of year it'd probably take me 2 weeks working at home.


Oh, and don't ever use a pickle fork on something you don't plan to replace. They destroy the boots and let water and debris into the joint.

 

[racsan]

a torch is defintly helpfull! the first time i did my ball joints, i couldnt even tell that was a castle nut inside the box beam (lower ball joint) i think i did both sides (just ball joints upper & lower) in about 4-5 hours. i did have access to a press. i wouldnt want to try it without a press! getting those spndles outta the knuckle is a chore if they havent been out ever! bought a brand-new shot hammer & nearly destroyed it getting those broke free. wire-wheel the heck out of those mating surfaces & coat them with anti-seize when you re-assemble. then the next time youre there, it wont be nearly as bad. what killed me the most about the job was paying for a alignment afterwards, seems it was over $100. cant recall exactly, its been about 7 years now. recently when i had to replace a drivers side beam (and my junkyard beam needed ball joints) i did the alignment myself. watching tire wear to see if i need to pay for one. lol. you could always go back in later & do u-joints if they are still good, that will save some time. and as long as you anti-seize the spindle/knuckle, its pretty quick tearing down to just pull the shafts out.