How hard to change a radiator?

[mikkelstuff]

My 2002 4WD Ranger XLT 3.0L is getting transmission fluid in the engine coolant. I assume here that the oil cooler inside the radiator is leaking.

Changing out the radiator does not look too challenging but I've never changed one in this truck before. Looks like upper and lower radiator hoses, two transmission oil lines, the rubber overflow line, two bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator, and two bolts holding the radiator to the truck should do it.

Also looks like the engine air inlet tube might have to come off to allow enough room to move the fan shroud.

Anything I'm missing? I will have to flush the engine coolant system.

 

[superj]

I thonk you got it. Maybe add an aftermarket cooler so you dont have this issue later on again

 

[Curious Hound]

Easy-peasy.

Git-er-dun.

 

[Plum Ranger XLT]

If it was me, I would go ahead and replace the upper radiator hose and the lower radiator hose since they are being taking off the radiator anyway and replacing a radiator isn't that hard to do. I would inspect the overflow tank hose and replace if it shows any signs of age.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Two hoses, Two transmission lines, Two bolts. lifts right out. you will likely have to take the intake tube/ air filter housing off but that is not too horrible.

While you are in there, it will never be easier to change the water pump and fan clutch... and I would go ahead and change the hoses, you will have them half removed anyways.

my biggest issue was that one of the transmission lines was rusted to the radiator fitting, and I reaaaallly did not want to replace the line, so I ended up having to dremel the fitting to the radiator off of the transmission line very carefully. New radiator came with new fittings so no big deal, just a crap ton of extra time to devote to corrosion...

But barring rust issues... As the Hound said, easy peasy, get 'er done.

AJ

 

[mikkelstuff]

Great. Next question - which radiator to buy. Rockauto has a Motorcraft for $300 or several cheaper models. I usually do not buy cheaper.

 

[Brain75]

I just did the 4.0L Auto/AC radiator transplant into my 2.9, it took me more time flushing it than I spent pulling, putting the new one in or flushing the (junkyard) donor one out 5 times...

Took about half that time to get all the air out.

To get every last drop drained out after the final flush put the front on the ground, jack the tail up in the air a good 6 inches and remove the lower hose from the radiator.

To get all the air out reverse... put the tail on the ground and the nose 6-8 inches up in the air (or park on a slope) and squeeze all the air out of the upper hose (you can see it burping into the overflow if the overflow is clean enough to see through). Do that step with it OFF otherwise you risk getting your fingers in the fan and the alternator belt - it is close quarters. Start it then let it idle up to temp, drop it on the ground, drive it around 6 or 7 miles, and let it sit overnight untouched - top the overflow off to the right height.

All total I spent 2 full days monkeying with it, but I was at 110k mi on original (old green IAT style) coolant and it was nastier than I thought it would be from overflow or looking into the top. It kept puking little tiny bits of black powdery stuff and some rust flakes. The donor had some oil contamination so it got cleaned well before implant, but then a more heavy duty flush repeatedly was what took the most time.
Also unscrew the plastic drain plug carefully (I noted it was all plastic in the junkyard before touching, so saved myself that hassle) - after you get it totally unscrewed and floppy it will still be retained by 2 prongs - pull it completely out to allow bit and chunks to come out.

 

[sgtsandman]

While everything is pretty much covered, the only caveat I can think of is on the aftermarket cooler. IF you decide to gonthat route, you will still want to use the factory cooler in the radiator. While not as critical with the old design these Rangers have, the aftermarket cooler could cool the transmission fluid too much, more of a late fall through early spring problem (depending on how cool your climate is), running the transmission fluid to the OEM cooler after the aftermarket one will reheat the fluid before going back into the transmission.

Newer vehicles, with transmission temperature sensors, transmission fluid being too cold will make the system think the transmission is still warming up. So the fuel system will run rich in an effort to warm the transmission up, potentially causing other issues in the long run. Lowered mpg, fouled plugs, catalytic converter issues, prolonged transmission shifting, etc.

So, your call on how you set it up but something to think about if you ever work on a more modern vehicle.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Ok you guys were correct. No big deal changing out radiators - well except for the clean up. Transmission fluid mixed in with the coolant surely makes for a slimy mess.

Then of all things, I dropped one of those two long bolts that hold the radiator to the truck body and never could find the *&^$ bolt. Metric of course and I keep few around. I was able to measure the one remaining bolt and pick one up at the local hardware store but geez! At least no blood payment this round.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Back at it again. The heater hose running from the lower radiator hose to the engine temperature sensor housing was leaking ever so little when I installed the new radiator. I did not have that lower hose and the heater hose connection is in a terrible place. I simply tightened the hose clamp on the heater hose and got away with it - for one week. Luckily I did order and receive a new lower hose.

So today I took it all apart again. Had a heck of a time getting the lower radiator hose free from the water pump but finally sliced the hose and got it free.

Then the danged heater hose did not want to come loose at the temperature sensor housing even with the hose clamp removed. So regrettably I went after it with a long screw driver and hammer. The hose finally came off BUT I smashed and holed that thin pipe out of the housing for the heater hose. Oh s**t.

Anyone know what that temperature sensor housing is called? and where to get a replacement? This is 2002 3.0L engine.

 

[slater50]

The heater hose connectors are known for developing pinholes from just, fyi....
can be replaced inflame without removing intake, carefully...

 

[mikkelstuff]

Yes I believe that. I could see it. Looked like a pin hole leak in the connector, not the heater hose itself. Good to know - don't feel bad about destroying that thin wall connector pipe while trying to remove the heater hose. That needs to be replaced anyway.

Are you telling me I should be able to replace the hose connector and save the housing? Looks to me like I could drill out the hose connector and tap for a 1/4" brass pipe nipple. That would hold the heater hose and never develop another pin hole. I managed to remove the housing so can try it.