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How hard is it to replace a wheel bearing and how expensive are they?


Original_Ranger84

Well-Known Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
4,688
City
Homer, Ak/ Anchorage, AK/Fairbanks, AK
Vehicle Year
1984, 1999
Transmission
Manual
I was Inspecting my truck for out of place stuff, and I noticed my driverside tire was wearing in the Friggin wierdest way! holy cow. I know it wasn't the ball joints because I just replaced them last year, and kept everything greased, for the most part, and I shook the wheel down and the tire would freely move up/down like between 1/2" and 1" is my guess, so I want to say its the wheel bearing? (tell me if you think it might be something else, cause anything that has to do with wheels falling off or wearing weird I perfer to fix before engine problems like leaking oil...)

The axle is a Dana 28 with manual ford hubs and an open 3.73 gearing, how hard/long would it take to replace? and how much are wheel bearings?
 
its easy......it took me a hour they cost me 18$ each plus 2 grease seal
the total was 84$
 
Remove the wheel and see if you can figure out where the motion is coming from.

That's really the only way to distinguish a wheel bearing from a balljoint. I know you just replaced them last year, but part of troubleshooting is NOT getting yourself into holes due to assumptions.

1/2 inch is a LOT of motion for a wheel bearing. Don't drive this thing until you get it figured out.

Replacing a wheel bearing isn't hard with the right tool (locknut socket for manual hubs, magnetic pickup tool for auto hubs). It's very messy, though. You have to pack the bearings with grease.
 
bearings go for about $20
and they are some of the easiest things to replace

i did both of mine in about 45 min...but thats on a 2wd truck
 
Remove the wheel and see if you can figure out where the motion is coming from.

That's really the only way to distinguish a wheel bearing from a balljoint. I know you just replaced them last year, but part of troubleshooting is NOT getting yourself into holes due to assumptions.

1/2 inch is a LOT of motion for a wheel bearing. Don't drive this thing until you get it figured out.

Replacing a wheel bearing isn't hard with the right tool (locknut socket for manual hubs, magnetic pickup tool for auto hubs). It's very messy, though. You have to pack the bearings with grease.

Yeup , only drove it home and let it sit in the driveway till I'm ready to work on it (don't like driving my truck when i know or think something isn't right on ti.):icon_thumby:. Plus I had one of the other mechanics look at everything as I shook it down with a jack under it to keep the suspension compressed, the ball joints were nice and tight, I talked to my dad and he said it might be a nut in it that came loose (spindle nut? I cant recall exactly what he called it.) either way I am in need of further investigation.I was really stating the 1/2" as the movement at the outer most part of the wheel (the movement is more back and forth not as straight up and down, like moving the steering from side to side but in a vertical version if that makes any sense?)

Oh yeah, OH MY GOD! I have to touch that thing covered in greyish red GOO!!!:shok::icon_surprised::icon_surprised::shok:, lol when I ifx it I am gonna clean it out real good in the solvent tank and pack it.:icon_thumby:

Thanks for all the advice and reminders so far!::icon_cheers:
 
Up and down movement with your wheel is usually ball joints side to side movement is usually bearings double check those joints regardless of how new they are just to make sure they haven't worn out or been damaged or broken
 
Up and down movement with your wheel is usually ball joints side to side movement is usually bearings double check those joints regardless of how new they are just to make sure they haven't worn out or been damaged or broken

The ball joints I already checked them it is most definetly a wheel bearing or loose something or other behind the hub.

The looseness occurs when shaking the tire back and forth vertically on the top and bottom (sort of pushing in on top and bottom).

Ball joints are checked by loading the suspension and placing a long bar under the wheel and pulling up to simulate bumps and pot holes. Also for sway bars ect.

Steering components are checked by the side to side shaking of the tire to check for tie rods pitman arms ect.

And I thourghly inspevted every other part of my front end and greased everything.:icon_thumby:
 

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