How do I replace the FPR re: hose

[Tedybear]

Hello Again Campers.

Ok, for anyone's interest...check the other post regarding the engine issues. Think we have it worked out to a leaky FPR, as at low/no vacuum? It's allowing raw fuel into the vacuum line.


Napa has an FPR listed for pretty low cost with a warranty of 90days. Money is wicked tight at this time, so we have to work this one on the cheap.

Every regulator however---shows the usual 2 bolts mount....line for vacuum...seal and o-ring.. And then it shows a wicked barbed line that I'm assuming is for the fuel return line. The current hose attached to my FPR is factory--never been touched. It's a few inches long and goes to the annoying "Garter" style retaining bit--and that's the connection to the body fuel lines. This barbed connector looks like a force-fit uber tight connection between the hose and FPR.

I did stop in at the local dealership, where they are pretty good about lending advice. The one tech stated to carefully use a pair of pliers with a protector so not to cut into the hose---and give it a quick twist. And then a hard pull---the hose should come free of the FPR. I then asked "What are the odds of pushing the hose on to the new FPR and having it correctly seal?"

His answer didn't quite fill me with sunshine and lollypops... 25% chance it will not seal using the old hose onto the new barbed end. Added bonus...their parts dept shows just about everything "No Info" in their computer when I asked about just replacement of the short hose and garter connector. (no longer made or supported according to the parts manager)

I'll be hitting this up probably Sunday and Tuesday if more time is needed. I need to know better ways of removing the FPR...and what exactly can be done with that barbed connector. Their suggestion was to remove the hose, and replace it with normal high pressure fuel line hose--and use high pressure fuel injector clamps. (this 'hose' looks more like a thick plastic hose--not rubber)

Ideas, Suggestions, Free Donuts? Send 'em my way!!! (Just kidding--ya can keep the donuts)

Thanks!

S-

 

[jhammel85]

When I mine and I DID get it to seal just fine this way.

My truck had the normal pressure line hoses connected to it. Just before this is the quick connects. All I did was cut the line (nice and even) right where it came off of the old regulator. There was enough slack there to do this. If you want to mess with it, try to get it off of there..I just decided to cut it...

Then you just slide over the inlet barbs on the new FPR.

My advice would be to NOT use lube at all. Its tough but its better than feeling like it could slip off. Just take your time, dont bend it much (could crack) and get on every single barb. Keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't move at all. Drive it around and check again..... If you leak gas at all, do not run the truck and fix it ASAP.

One thing you do want to lube up is the O-Ring on the regulator when you install it into the fuel rail. If it doesn't seat and you'll have a hell of a leak. Definitely turn the key on 1st to check for leaks then run the truck, periodically checking under the hood.

Do a search for "FPR" in our 2.9 forum to make sure you have all of your bases covered before you start..

Good luck man!

 

[RustedRanger]

I replaced my FPR and I didn't have to mess with the stock fuel line connector,just followed the directions and cut the old line off and used the included short piece of rubber line and clamps.

 

[Tedybear]

Well, stopped by NAPA and ordered in the El Cheapo' Deluxe model. Not sure if it will include hose/clamps...or anything? All the stock photos show just the FPR alone no matter which one is selected. Just wanting to cover all the bases--as my knees are killing me driving the wife's Tibby around for the last week LOL. I can drive standard all day long, but my left knee reminds me not to make a long term habit out of it.

S-

 

[jhammel85]

It should come with the hose clamps, O-Rings and gasket (or spacer...whatever you want to call it)

 

[voodoochylde]

My advice would be to NOT use lube at all. Its tough but its better than feeling like it could slip off.

Don't use dishsoap, WD-40, spit, etc, etc, etc...

Use rubbing alcohol! It makes it slickery and evaporates pretty clean. No residue to allow anything to gum up or worse, slip!

 

[Tedybear]

Job's done. Solved the surging problem and my mileage went back up to about 20.

Just push it together really hard, clamp the snot out of it with the new hoses and clamps. Worked a treat on it.

S-