How do I pull the codes on a '94 Ranger 2.3l?

[fyrebug72]

Hey all! I hope someone can help me figure this out. My 94 Ranger's timing belt was off about 2 - 2 1/2 teeth. I drove it like that for several months(dont yell at me!) until I was sitting in the drive thru at idle(which is rough) and the truck bogged down and started knocking REAL loudly! I pulled into a spot and turned it off and let it sit for a bit. I re-started it and it ran normally so I drove away. On the way home it started to cut out a bit, kinda like I lost a cylinder. So I parked it and started working on the timing belt issue. Got that fixed( I would love to meet the engineers who designed this engine!!) and the truck runs great. Still idles rough but actually have power! I have never been able to go over 60 mpg! So I've been driving it for a couple of days and not that cut ting out thing is back and it starts to run rough. If I rev it up a bit it goes away! I hope someone can help me out and would also like some help on getting the trouble codes for this as it is an OBD-I and I have been told I cant use a code reader! Sorry this is so long but I thought I would be thorough.

 

[Earl43P]

http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Ford OBD1 Decoder.htm

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147734

etc.

 

[Super95]

how can cam belt be a 1/2 tooth off? you say 2-2/12 teeth off timing marks? You probably (did) hurt the engine if so. It was working against itself the whole time it was misaligned. Amazing it still runs. On that note, I would also like to meet the engineers who designed this engine, to shake their hands of course.

 

[Simple_serf]

I have to agree, I would LOVE to meet the people who designed this motor. Oh, and the people who desgigned the Vulcan. The Limas are awesome engines.

They are pretty stout motors.

Is there a CE light? Oil press? Compression? When were the plugs last changed? Have you checked coil pack resistance? Treat it like any miss. Check the obvious. Check vac lines, computer sensor plugs, look for loose wires. All of the usual stuff.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

as long as the engine has not been detonating due to advanced timing, there is no way an out of time timing belt could damage your motor (its a non-interference engine). but it sounds like the timing was retarded, so this is probably not the case.

i would say the timing and the poor running are probably un-related. does it run poorly at idle all the time? or is it a come and go thing? if its come and go, its probably an EEC thing and intermittent electrical problems are always the most difficult to track down. if its constant that you should pull your spark plugs and check their condition...not only to check for rich running, but to see if months of retarded timing (rich mixture) has fouled them.

 

[Super95]

Well....

as long as the engine has not been detonating due to advanced timing, there is no way an out of time timing belt could damage your motor (its a non-interference engine). but it sounds like the timing was retarded, so this is probably not the case.

i would say the timing and the poor running are probably un-related. does it run poorly at idle all the time? or is it a come and go thing? if its come and go, its probably an EEC thing and intermittent electrical problems are always the most difficult to track down. if its constant that you should pull your spark plugs and check their condition...not only to check for rich running, but to see if months of retarded timing (rich mixture) has fouled them.

I didnt say a valve interfered with piston movement, by changing valve timing as dramatic as 2-3 (2 1/2) teeth can damage the engine when ran esp. driving it "several months"- revving it, idling it building heat. I dont remember how many teeth are on cam and crank sprockets , but there isnt 360 each, so cam/valve timing wasnt off just 1 or 2 degrees, more like 10 degrees or more for 2 teeth. What may have damaged it is because it actually ran, if not you could have saved it. been better off leaving the original on probably. YES it could damage cam,lifters,valve,piston,and/or head and gasket by running mistimed. valve seats of head and valve could be (most likely are) damaged, if not more. The poor running IS probably related. These engines stock are 9+:1 compression, having your valves out of sync that much is not good. These engines use computer controlled electronic technology to control engine spark and fuel management according to crankshaft position, by mistiming the valves they will be opening and closing at incorrect times as crank phases, valves maybe working against compression of piston, maybe valves are allowing combustion to burn valve seats, or flowing back through wrong valve. spark and fuel would both be affected and also seemingly out of time(if it were). you didnt say which way it was mistimed though, advanced or retarded cam. If the truck started "knocking REAL loud" and bogged out and died, sorry to say you probably hurt the engine. I would be more worried about checking compression, than spark plugs for fouling. BTW cam belt change only takes a few hours, when it may last over 10 yrs. a little extra time and proper installation goes a long way, and is otherly maintenence free. I hope for your sake im wrong, good luck fyrebug72.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

YES it could damage cam,lifters,valve,piston,and/or head and gasket by running mistimed.

how?

the only way this engine could be damaged by running with the timing off is if it were detonating. you want to know an easy trick for more power? ADVANCE your cam timing a few degrees (they actually make sprocket kits that allow you do do this precisely).

if his timing was so far advanced that the valves were opening during the compression stroke, the engine would not have ran (engines done run when all the compression is escaping out the tailpipe). and this STILL wouldnt have hurt the motor...ever heard of a jake brake?

the ignition timing on your engine is based on both the crank AND camshaft sensors. im suprised the PCM didnt recognize the mis-time and trip a CEL...but then EEC-IV is kind of stupid. either way, it would have retarded or advanced the timing to match.

 

[fyrebug72]

Thnx

Thanks for all the replys! I still havnt been able to work on the truck but will soon. But back to part of my question: How can I get the trouble codes?

 

[Harris]

There is a scantool connector attached to the power distribution box under the hood.

http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj33/harris3810/?action=view&current=EECScanToolConnector.jpg

Before I bought the $30 scantool I took mine to the auto parts store where they would scan it for free.
http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=ACN&MfrPartNumber=CP9015&CategoryCode=3389

 

[fyrebug72]

Cool thanks my friend!

 

[Super95]

Fyrebug72,
If no engine light-trouble codes found, i would do a compression test (at least a cranking compression test) a good shop can do a leak-down test if your unsure. Also a good repair manual is a must. keep us posted and good luck.

how?

the only way this engine could be damaged by running with the timing off is if it were detonating. you want to know an easy trick for more power? ADVANCE your cam timing a few degrees (they actually make sprocket kits that allow you do do this precisely).

if his timing was so far advanced that the valves were opening during the compression stroke, the engine would not have ran (engines done run when all the compression is escaping out the tailpipe). and this STILL wouldnt have hurt the motor...ever heard of a jake brake?

the ignition timing on your engine is based on both the crank AND camshaft sensors. im suprised the PCM didnt recognize the mis-time and trip a CEL...but then EEC-IV is kind of stupid. either way, it would have retarded or advanced the timing to match.

Wicked_sludge, notice.....
First off who said predetonation (spark-knock ping) didn't occur, BTW predetonation cant always be heard, though Fyrebug72 did mentioned it knocking REAL loud. You say an easy trick for more power is to advance cam timing a few degrees. Prove it. Also what is easy about it? Remember the couple teeth it is said to have been mistimed does NOT equal just a few degrees, but MUCH more.

Yes I am familiar with engine braking by Jacobs. Jake Brakes are fitted on DIESEL engines, it holds exhaust valve(s) open at rocker arm(depending) to kill power (compresion) and use reciprocating assembly of engine(crank,rods,pistons,clutch,ect.) to slow vehicle. DIESEL engines dont use sparkplugs, they also have multiple times more compression. Also the Jake Brake holds exhaust valve(s) open during all cycles of crank revs, until disengaged, It isn't mistimed opening and closing when its not supposed to Apples and Oranges I say.

Lastly, dont be surprised. EEC is NOT stupid, he didn't say the cam sensor was mistimed, which is driven from the same belt as his camshaft, but a different sprocket driving the auxillary shaft and cam sensor. Sorry so long and babbley guys! Good luck again Fyrebug72 figuring it out.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

super95, you should really try doing a little research before making posts.

i never said the engine wasnt detonating...but its a pretty big symptom, most people would mention something.

HERE and HERE are pages about cam timing that sell adjustable cam sprockets. if you need more proof...try google (its easy). i never said his timing was only a few degrees off, (each of the 38 teeth on a 2.3 cam sprocket is about 9 degrees), i was just making the point that mis-timing the cam will not hurt the motor.

jake brakes...first off...i realize they are used on diesel engines. secondly, a jake brake functions by opening the exhaust valve at TDC, thus using the engines compression to slow the truck..hens "compression brake" (NOT by holding the valve open). more info on jake brakes HERE.

finally the CMP. a '94 2.3's CMP, if equipped, is driven off of the oil pump, which is in turn driven by the cam. 95+ CMP's are driven by an auxiliary drive sprocket...like you mentioned.

 

[shadetree]

finally the CMP. a '94 2.3's CMP, if equipped, is driven off of the oil pump, which is in turn driven by the cam. 95+ CMP's are driven by an auxiliary drive sprocket...like you mentioned.

The 2.3 has never driven anything off the cam, it is the auxilary shaft.

The engine can be damaged by prolonged driving with incorrect timing, ignition or cam. If the cam was off by that much, this would be approx 20 to 30 degrees which in most cases the engine would not even start much less run. Each tooth is 9.5*.

Fyrebug72,Wicked_sludge, notice.....
First off who said predetonation (spark-knock ping) didn't occur, BTW predetonation cant always be heard, though Fyrebug72 did mentioned it knocking REAL loud.

There is no such thing as "predetonation." It is either detonation, or pre-ignition. Not the same thing. shady

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

The 2.3 has never driven anything off the cam, it is the auxilary shaft.

if his '94 has a CMP (only certain 94's did...the models introduced with california emissions), its driven off of the oil pump. it wasnt untill '95 that they are driven directly off of the auxiliary shaft.

The engine can be damaged by prolonged driving with incorrect timing, ignition or cam. If the cam was off by that much, this would be approx 20 to 30 degrees which in most cases the engine would not even start much less run. Each tooth is 9.5*.

obviously the engine was running...so the timing wasnt that far off. and again, tell me exactly what happens inside the motor to damage it from incorrect timing. my 1.9 was off 3 teeth when i got it. the PO had driven it for over a year with the timing off like this. after i got it (and discovered the engine wouldnt climb above 5,000RPM) and re-timed it, the motor has been fine since.

 

[Super95]

Well...
thanks shadetree for pointing my typo, predetonation, though i did follow it with (spark-knock, ping)
Wicked.. your just a little mixed up. Sure showing who makes a "adjustable" multikeyed cam sprocket is easy, ive known they exist also, but i didnt see a dyno sheet or "typical hp gains"(prove it). What is so easy about changing cam timing, was my question. Remember, this whole thing originated from a mistimed belt change, not belt and aftermarket cam sprocket with how many different adjustments?? How do you know it is precise except for then indexing cam?
FYI the 94 cam sensor is not driven off oil pump as you claim, it is driven by the aux sprocket, which drives the sync box (where the cam sensor is located and reads it, hens sync.),then drives the oil pump.
95 different block,cam,head, no sync box, and the oil pump is the aux sprocket and directly triggers cam sensor. No need to pull eng. or even oil pan for oil pump removal like 94 + earlier.
As i said but poorly explained(it was frickin late) jake brake opens exhaust valve(s), you said at at TDC but, i say only if the cam is properly timed. Though you have a good example, imagine the engines valve opening at exactly the wrong time, every time, you cant see how damage may be possible? Esp. valves/seats.
Kudos w/ your 1.9? But how can you say there is no possible way engine damage could occur, unless of course you intentionally misstimed a blueprinted 94 2.3L every tooth on cam sprocket and ran each time, for several months or more then did a complete teardown and tediously compared all tolerances to blueprinted tolerances? No long term problems would exist?
I agree i should research more, but who shouldn't?
All this thinkin, brings up a point..if you havent already fixed it. Fyrebug72, did you use the synchronizer positioning tool to time the cam sensor? you say you took care of timing but it may also be worth a look (only time). you never mentioned engine light on either.
Sorry so long, best of luck.