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hotter coil


rangerT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
60
City
Sask,Canada
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
in the "buying a used ranger"section it states that to help reduce the known pinging problem is to buy a new hotter coil for the00' 4.0....where do you one and which one? anyone else done this? i would ask the person who wrote it but i don't know who it was ....has to help a little

thanks
 
Accel carries them.
 
CANNOT help!

in the "buying a used ranger"section it states that to help reduce the known pinging problem is to buy a new hotter coil for the00' 4.0....where do you one and which one? anyone else done this? i would ask the person who wrote it but i don't know who it was ....has to help a little

thanks

Coils build up energy until the gap can be jumped. Regardles of which coil is being used the spark will be the same. A "hotter" coil is needed at higher rpm and higher compression. Using a racing coil does NOTHING for an engine that is used in normal driving situations.
All the spark does is to "light" the mixture. The mixture doesn't care which coil lights it. As soon as the spark occurs the mixture does the rest. Lighting with a small yellow spark does the EXACT same as lighting with a harsh BLUE spark!!
Big Jim:D
 
On the other hand - to what "known pinging problem" are you referring? None of my Rangers have ever pinged.

Is your truck making noise - and if so, what does it sound like? If not, you are trying to fix something that isn't broken.
 
Coils build up energy until the gap can be jumped. Regardles of which coil is being used the spark will be the same. A "hotter" coil is needed at higher rpm and higher compression. Using a racing coil does NOTHING for an engine that is used in normal driving situations.
All the spark does is to "light" the mixture. The mixture doesn't care which coil lights it. As soon as the spark occurs the mixture does the rest. Lighting with a small yellow spark does the EXACT same as lighting with a harsh BLUE spark!!
Big Jim:D


not exactly true... but mostly.

a weak spark can sometimes have issues jumping the gap as the air fuel mixture itself does add electrical resistance. this will never be an issue with a properly working factory setup, though. if its an issue... either your coil is going bad, or you are running enough boost into the motor to bump up the resistance of the air/fuel charge.
 
not exactly true... but mostly.

a weak spark can sometimes have issues jumping the gap as the air fuel mixture itself does add electrical resistance. this will never be an issue with a properly working factory setup, though. if its an issue... either your coil is going bad, or you are running enough boost into the motor to bump up the resistance of the air/fuel charge.

Hmm! In such a case the thing wouldn't run worth a damn..would it? The guy isnn't complaining bout the running..just a ping. Prolly caused by build-up of deposits in the chamber.
Agreed, however, a weak coil causes all kinds of running problems.
Big Jim:D
 
On the other hand - to what "known pinging problem" are you referring? None of my Rangers have ever pinged.

Is your truck making noise - and if so, what does it sound like? If not, you are trying to fix something that isn't broken.

when i get into the throttle sometimes at higher(3000+ >4200 when it shifts)you can hear a pinging noise (kinda sounds like a old timeing chain rattle)...not all the time and seems that once i have gotton into it it won't do it again for a while...i use husky/mohawk gas 89 or 90 octane and valve guides might pass some as well that is all for problems that i know of.....i have had the truck for about 5 months and is in excellent shape....

thanks for everyone's feedback so far...keep thyem coming:yahoo:
 
OHC or pushrod 4.0?
 
Instead of the coil, put a hotter sparkplug in it.
 
^^^^^^^^when i asked ford for them all they said was that they don't even call for anything else but the platinum or doubles (i can't remember what they said)....who else would carry something diff. or which one i would need:icon_confused:
 
^^^^^^^^when i asked ford for them all they said was that they don't even call for anything else but the platinum or doubles (i can't remember what they said)....who else would carry something diff. or which one i would need:icon_confused:

The plugs you purchase from the dealer are what SHOULD be in there. Use them and find what the real problem is.
Big JIm:D
 
+1

installing aftermarket parts to get a stock engine to run properly is NOT how you repair drivability problems....its how you create more problems.

the engine was running properly on those parts from the factory, theres no reason it shouldnt do it again. find and fix the problem, dont throw parts at it.
 
ok so on that note can anyone give advice on what causes pinging and how can it be fixed or managed? will it cause any long term damage the way it is now? someone mentioned to me that it might be oil seeping past the guides that is causing the problem...any truth to that.

thanks
 
detonation (pinging) is VERY bad for your motor. until you get it fixed, avoid situations that cause it. downshift, allow the truck to loose speed on hills, avoid 3/4-full throttle acceleration and low RPM...anything you have to do.

knocking can be caused by a number of things. are there any codes stored in the PCM? just because the CEL isnt on doesnt mean there arent codes stored.

some things to look at would be vacuum leaks, EGR system, engine coolant tempurature, and timing.

oil leaking past the valve guides can cause knocking indirectly. burning oil causes carbon build-up inside the combustion chamber, which raises compression and causes the A/F mixture to explode, causing the knock. excess carbon can build up on engines that arent burning oil too. if memory serves, ford has TSB out for pinging on the OHV 4.0 due to carbon buildup, so thats a very likely culprit.
 

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