Home replacement of exhaust. How hard is it?

[tigerpb]

Looks like it time for a new exhaust system on my 2000 3.0 Ranger.

I'm thinking of using the Dynomax Super Kit. Have any of you replaced the cat back exhaust in your home garage? I only have ramps to work with.
Or, am I better off paying a local garage to install it.

Also, how would you rate the noise level of the Dynomax muffler?

 

[Destroyer000]

theirs nothing better than telling some one YOU did the work to your truck... you can easily do the exhaust with a set of ramps.. ive been doing them for years an working under cars/trucks OUTSIDE in the dirt .. an exhaust on a ranger CAKE! best part is when your buddy goes yeah i just got a new exhaust system installed from so an so an it cost me 400-500 bucks sound WICKED!!! you can go yeah i installed MY own for FREE!!!!!

 

[ghost_rader]

i think if you have any mechanical skills, you can install a cat back exhaust. i would go for it. as far as the sound, i don't have any experience with dynomax sorry

 

[almostclueless]

It depends on how rusty the bolts are....


Rusty exhaust bolts can become a real nitemare in a hurry.

 

[pacodiablo]

It's very easy. I did it in a couple hours in my driveway, by myself, without even putting the truck on jack stands. Didn't even use ramps either.

Step 1: Spray PB blaster on the flange bolts and let it sit.
Step 2: Cut the exhaust into manageable sections with a Sawzall or other cutting tool.
Step 3: Unbolt and remove from hangers. The rubber pieces will put up a fight, but grease or vaseline will help.
Step 4: Put Dynomax kit in. Don't bolt anything down tight until you have everything in place. Don't forget things like the gasket for the flange.
Step 5: Tighten everything up.

You may want to get some new exhaust flange bolts just for good measure. They are a couple dollars at any parts store.

The Dynomax kits are not very loud, but I really liked the way mine sounded.

As you can see, there is plenty of room to work on the exhaust...

 

[almostclueless]

Step 1: Spray PB blaster on the flange bolts and let it sit.
Step 2: Cut the exhaust into manageable sections with a Sawzall or other cutting tool.
Step 3: Unbolt and remove from hangers. The rubber pieces will put up a fight, but grease or vaseline will help.
Step 4: Put Dynomax kit in. Don't bolt it anything down tight until you have everything in place. Don't forget things like the gasket for the flange.
Step 5: Tighten everything up.

Those are VERY GOOD suggestions. PB blaster is really good stuff. It's also helpful to use an impact with the power dialed down a little, and even wire wheel the exposed threads of rusty fasteners (the rust gets jammed between the bolt and nut as they're spun apart).

When I bolt together an exhaust, I frequently also use anti-sieze on the threads....who go thru crap twice?

I might be inclined to get all the bolts apart BEFORE I go cutting the exhaust, just in case something just won't give and I have to go somewhere where they have a hot wrench!!!

 

[pacodiablo]

Good point, it would be a good idea to make sure you can get the bolts out first.

 

[aogden001]

When I put the dynomax exhaust on my '02, I didn't use ramps. Just slid under & did it. Probably would be easier on ramps though. I had a 2.3 and it sounded decent.

 

[REDRUM]

Go fer it!


When I had my '87, I put a dynomax on it. Cost me @$125. That 2.9 sounded good, but it was much quieter than the cherrybomb that was on it when I got the truck.

I installed the Hearthrob on a friends Edge.


Didn't use ramps for either.


Good Luck!

 

[pocket-rocket]

I tend to use heat on nuts that don't come loose more then PB Blaster. Then again, I have more propane then I do PB Blaster I also tend to run nuts and bolts over with my tap and die set if I am going to reuse them. It makes it much easier to reinstall them and makes torque settings much more accurate if you're doing something you want to use a torque wrench on.

 

[rangerbum]

Dont drop the dime on a local shop. Even if it's your first time touching exhaust, it's EASY. Just make sure to lay it all out in the order it needs to be in before you hack into the stock system, that way you know your not missing anything, and it will be more time efficient. And try not to over-tighten clamps. I way overdid a 90 degree bend clamped to a glasspack and had to hack the whole thing.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Only once did I have a shop fix my exhaust for me.... I was talked into it one year...

Year and a half later my muffler was leaking. I've been under it repairing the exhaust since... not very hard.... just keeps getting more involved each time. I keep buying just the cheap mufflers and they only last a year or two, then I swap it out, hoping that by the next time I'll be ready to do a new exhaust...

FYI, some big chain stores loan tools for various things, the one local to me has a nice kit for working on exhaust, they got a cutter that will fit places a sawzall doesn't.

 

[tigerpb]

Thanks for the tips, you guys are the best.

All your tips and photos are great! I've done exhaust work before, just not on my Ranger. I do own most of the tools mentioned-sawzall, impact wrench, along with an air chisel and air rotary cutoff tool.
My concern was having enough room to angle the pipes into place without getting hung up. Now I know his won't be a problem.

 

[MAKG]

The only issue I've run into (with a STOCK replacement system) is getting the Chinese puzzle of a resonator and tailpipe around the rear axle. It helps to jack up the frame and let the rear suspension droop.

I second the idea of running taps through all the threads for anything being reused (ESPECIALLY for the exhaust manifolds if the Y-pipe is coming off). And Nev-R-Seez is absolutely vital.

Also, don't hesitate to break the front cat bolts, or any of the exhaust clamps. Rear cat bolts are kinda expensive (Help! sells them for $10 apiece), so take it easy on those.

 

[tigerpb]

Got a look at the problem.

Finally pulled the truck into the garage and got a look at the source of the noise. It looks like the spring loaded bolts (after the cat, before the muffler) have lost their clamping power. The flange is loose and gasket is blowing out.
Surprisingly, the 8 year old OEM pipes look very solid. I may just get lucky on this one!
Where do I get these special bolts? Autozone? Ford?

Also, I've never installed these spring loaded bolts before. How do you know when they're tight enough?

Thanks again!