Hole in my AC condenser

[mustang00066]

I just put a hole in my AC condenser and everything came out and AC doesn't work.
The shop wants $500 to fix this so i'm trying it myself instead. I found a new condenser on ebay, delivered, for $65.

Has anyone done this before themselves? How difficult is this to do? Is there anything else i need to replace besides the condenser?

Any help is much appreciated.

thank you!

 

[OilPatch197]

Replace the condenser, and the o-rings. Then replace the accumulator(dryer), then pull down as much vacuum as you can(the more air you can get removed the better) I used a vacuum machine from harbor freight, then you need a manifold gauge set hooked up to the high/low sides, hook up the vacuum pump to that, then vacuum the system, then while under vacuum, shut off the vacuum hose connect a R-134 can, purge, then start adding SLOWLY into the system, you will probably need a 2oz. shot of ester oil as well.

Charge it up until you get the right High side/Low side pressures on the gauge.

 

[LearjetMinako]

I have done A/C repair myself. One thing about A/C is that there is no shortcuts to repairs. Along with the condenser to replace, also replace the acculamator, o-rings, and orfice tube. And when you do have the system apart, flush every part except the compressor and new parts. Don't unseal the acculamator until the A/C system is ready to be serviced. There is a drying agent in the acculamator and will asborb moisture from the atmosphere. Drain the oil from the compressor by the tilting the ports downwards and turn the compressor. Then add the correct amount of Pag-46 to the compressor and system (the amount needed can be found on the A/C service placid under the hood). Once everything is complete, take the vehicle to an A/C service shop. Install the acculamator then and have the system e-vac to remove any moisture left in the system. The service shop wil pretty much will do the rest. The shop I took mine to, e-vac the system down to like 26hg-in for 20 mins and then added the correct amount of R-134a by weight. Their machine pretty much did all the work.

 

[exbass94]

purge, then start adding SLOWLY into the system, you will probably need a 2oz. shot of ester oil as well.

.

Ester oil is for R-12 systems only. PAG 46 is the correct oil for this system. Everything else you said is good though.

 

[OilPatch197]

Ester oil is for R-12 systems only. PAG 46 is the correct oil for this system. Everything else you said is good though.

Ester oil is often found in "conversion kits", so it should be compatible with both R-12 and R 134a systems I would think. I don't think PAG is backwards compatible.

BTW my car (1992 Buick) has R-12 and is COLDER THAN ANY CAR MADE IN THE PAST 15 YEARS. I remember everyone in my family HOARDING R-12, that stuff was GREAT.

 

[adsm08]

Ester oil is for R-12 systems only. PAG 46 is the correct oil for this system. Everything else you said is good though.

I'd get the PAG 46. It's just generally a better lubricant, the only reason it isn't backwards compatible is because PAG reacts poorly to R-12. Gums things up I think.

Ester oil is often found in "conversion kits", so it should be compatible with both R-12 and R 134a systems I would think. I don't think PAG is backwards compatible.

BTW my car (1992 Buick) has R-12 and is COLDER THAN ANY CAR MADE IN THE PAST 15 YEARS. I remember everyone in my family HOARDING R-12, that stuff was GREAT.

R-12 doesn't actually work that much better as a refrigerant. The only reason the R-143a cars don't get as cold is because the newer systems are calibrated to not get as cold. Something about evap cores turning into blocks of ice and blocking air-flow.... I dunno, I guess people don't like that...

 

[OilPatch197]

You can use Propane as the refrigerant. That would be cheaper if you can voodoo a orifice tube optimized for Propane.

 

[adsm08]

You can use Propane as the refrigerant. That would be cheaper if you can voodoo a orifice tube optimized for Propane.

Patch has a point. Propane, Butane, pretty much any thing that's a gas at room temp, (I've even seen gasoline used) can work as a refrigerant. Just remember, if you use anything other than 134a, if you ever have to get it serviced, be nice and tell them you used an alternative refrigerant.

 

[exbass94]

I don't recommend propane as a refrigerant. If you get into an accident, or find some other way to put another hole in the condenser, do you really want propane leaking out? Better hope no one lights a match. Stick with r134a.

 

[kemo]

Amen... or let someone who knows what they are doing repair it. $600 bucks ain't bad. One heck of a learning curve though.

 

[Beef52751]

I'd get the PAG 46. It's just generally a better lubricant, the only reason it isn't backwards compatible is because PAG reacts poorly to R-12. Gums things up I think.



R-12 doesn't actually work that much better as a refrigerant. The only reason the R-143a cars don't get as cold is because the newer systems are calibrated to not get as cold. Something about evap cores turning into blocks of ice and blocking air-flow.... I dunno, I guess people don't like that...

Pag 46 wont get "picked up" or "Carried" by R-12 is why your not supposed to use it.

R-12 is a better refrigerant than R-134a but its like running nitromethane in your DD, Its overkill to some people!!!

 

[LearjetMinako]

Patch has a point. Propane, Butane, pretty much any thing that's a gas at room temp, (I've even seen gasoline used) can work as a refrigerant. Just remember, if you use anything other than 134a, if you ever have to get it serviced, be nice and tell them you used an alternative refrigerant.

If the service shop preforms a sniff test. They will find out whats in it. And if it is something other than R-12 or R-134a, they most likely won't touch the system or do the work.

 

[OilPatch197]

BTW What prices can I expect for R-12 servicing, I've heard there is plenty of R-12 being imported on the "black market".

Should I be concerned with contamination from bad R-12? (Re: recycled/recovered from another vehicle)

Also where do shops get R-12 these days?

 

[LearjetMinako]

R-12 is still ready for use at the service shop I went to. But the price difference between R-134a and R-12 were dramatic. Can't remember exactly, but R-134a was like $12 per lb. and R-12 was like $80 per lb.. It was a huge enough difference that made me glad that the Ranger is R-134a.

As for FOD (forgien object debris) in black market recovered R-12, that could be of some cocern. For one, we don't know what the donor vehicle was like. Was it good, was the compressor eating itself, did it have the black death? We don't know. R-12 from a service shop will be ready for use. And even if recovered, it has been treated and purified. In the long run, it is not worth the risk to spend hundered's of dollars to fix the A/C system and use questionable refrigent in the system. Once an A/C system is fixed correctly, it should last 5+ more years before something else may go out.

 

[AllanD]

Non-Odorized (they add the "Stink" to propane) is sold under as an R-12 replacement.

Ever seen R-290a?

R-12 was originally developed as a non flammible substitute for propane.

I've used propane filled A/C systems, they work.

Finding a leak is easier... No you don't go hunting for the leak with a match...
(but you can) With a flammible gas/hydrocarbon detector.

Electronic hydrocarbon detectors are much more reliable and easier to calibrate than the ultra twitchy "halon detectors" used to sniff for Referigerant leaks.

it's really hard to make isopropane (propane's proper chemical name) explode.

But be aware that what many people are sold as "Propane" isn't.

What most gas places sell is "Liquified petroleum gas" or "LPG" there's a reason they use a generic term.... because isopropane (the three carbon hydrocarbon) is slightly more expensive than it's four carbon sister molecule... isubutane commonly called "butane"

And depending on what part of the country you are in the LPG mixture varies.

In warmer parts of the country they will sell you much more butane in the mix
in colder parts of the country you'll get much purer propane with little or no butane.

the reason for this is butane can literally be carried around in a bucket at 30degF
(it boils at -0.5C)

So in say... Minnesota in January it wouldn't come out of the tank...

Much of the butane produced (as a byproduct of the refining industry) in the US is mixed into Gasoline during the winter months.
(this is why some EFI vehicles can become vapor locked on unexpectedly warm days during the winter months)


But on the OP's vehicle (if his avatar is correct) it uses R134a

R134a is reasonably cheap (compared to aquiring the fittings to hook
up propane to charge your A/C)

And a "poor man's purge" is to charge the system with R134 let it sit for
a while (a couple hours) then unscrew the shrader valve under the high
pressure cutoff switch and bleed the R134 to the atmosphere

R134 is NOT harmful to the Ozone layer but it Kommiefornia it
(like everything else) is probably illegal

P134a is heavier than air so in a filled and "settled" system opening
the system at the highest point will force the air out the top.

I have a vacuum pump, most people don't.



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