Hoisting a 94 4.0 OHV

[The_Epsicle]

Title pretty much says it. I'm trying to remove the engine on my 94 4.0 OHV and cannot figure out where the hoist points are. I own an engine lift, balancer, and stand and I have assisted with engine rebuilds before but I've never cowboyed up to lead a removal until now and I completely overlooked how to actually hook the engine up to the lift. I've read I can use ratchet straps around the loops in the exhaust manifolds and that sounds like a good idea but I'd prefer to lift it with bolts and chains that don't have a chance of tearing on a sharp corner.

My engine bay is torn apart right now and I am just about ready to remove it so any help will be GREATLY appreciated. If you know where these lift points are or have a suggestion or removing the engine, please let me know.

EDIT: Gonna go with the ratchet straps around the exhaust manifold, I'm going to use this thread for any other urgent questions I have about the project.

Currently talking about: My fuel pressure going to 0 PSI in three days since the last drive.

 

[Mark_88]

On the 4.0 I've never had to work on one...the 2.3 had lift hoops connected to the intake and exhaust bolts on just about every engine I ever saw...except mine because I removed them...

I'm sure there are dozens of members who have pulled these engines so they will be able to answer better...just kind of surprised they are not already there...I would be afraid to wrap a strap around the oil pan if they are aluminum...but steel would probably be OK...

 

[adsm08]

On cologne engines I usually tie ratchet straps or seat belts around the manifolds.

 

[RonD]

The heads on most engines usually have larger threaded holes on the ends, I often use those

4.0l example here: http://www.enginepartstore.com/images/products/secondary/v406b-4.jpg



And +1 on exhaust manifolds

 

[The_Epsicle]

Thanks, guys. I'll go with the ratchet straps. I have another problem, I forgot to relieve my fuel pressure before tearing apart the engine a few days ago. I decided to disconnect the fuel filter and let myself be sprayed before I disconnected the fuel line, which I've done on accident before so I wore goggles and a bandanna to keep the gasoline out of my mouth/eyes. However, I didn't get sprayed and I was momentarily thankful for that until I realized there was no pressure in any of the fuel lines. Is it normal for fuel pressure to drop to 0 PSI after not running for three days or is it indicative of a fuel injector/regulator problem? There was no gasoline smell in the engine compartment before I disconnected the lines.

 

[RonD]

It should hold fuel pressure for a few months when newer but '94 only used 35psi so could have fuel pressure regulator(FPR) valve leaking thru return fuel line, or check valve inside fuel pump is leaking a bit.

Did it have cold start problems?

 

[The_Epsicle]

Yes, sometimes I have to try a couple times to start it when cold but it never refused to start so I didn't think much of it. Are there any tests I can do on the regulator with the engine torn apart, or do I need to wait until my truck is back together?

 

[RonD]

You will need to wait until you can put pressure in the system

 

[The_Epsicle]

That's what I figured, thanks for the help.

 

[AllanD]

There are threaded hole in the tops of the exhaust ports that are supposed to have lift-loops bolted into them... Unless some prior mechanic removed them...

they often get into the way when replacing the valve-cover gaskets so they often get pulled...

On my engines I always find those holes badly rusted, so I wind up
drilling and heli-coiling them

10mmX1.5 if you are curious....

Then "cap" the hole with a short bolt and a brass washer liberally coated
with Never-Seeze..... the loops themselves "live" in my toolbox.

AD

 

[The_Epsicle]

There are threaded hole in the tops of the exhaust ports that are supposed to have lift-loops bolted into them... Unless some prior mechanic removed them...

Thanks, AllanD. I know exactly what you're talking about, and yes someone has removed them. At least now I know what those bolt holes were for, and that the exhaust manifold is built to support all that weight.

 

[AllanD]

I'm sure the exhaust manifolds are strong enough, as are the exhaust ports but
the question you've gotta ask is are the exhaust manifold bolts?

I'm sure they are as I've seen dozens of 4.0 motors lifted by them

as described above typically junkyards that pull the engines for you are usually more than willing to sacrifice a seatbelt to lift an engine and let YOU cut it off later.

but yanking an engine out with a forklife at a junkyard when you don't care about the junker you are pulling it from is far different from pulling the engine from your "baby"

Where you really don't want to smash the coolant overflow bottle or something more expensive and harder to replace

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I pulled a 4.0, trans and t-case from a 91 explorer using a lift sling wrapped thru and around the intake. If the intake will support that, it will support just an engine. It was a junker body and I cut the rad support out to do this, but that's beside the point in your case.

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[The_Epsicle]

Now I've got a real problem. I knew the exhaust would be hard to get off, but I can't get it to budge at all. I've had it soaking in PB blaster for days, any suggestions?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I pulled motor and trans together, and cut the rad support, so this may not work for you. I didn't care about from the cat back so I used a reciprocating saw and cut to the motor side of the cat, between the flange and the cat.

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