High Angle Driveshaft

[The Jester Race]

I am having issues getting a front drive shaft built. I cannot get enough bend out of the Ujoint in a single carden design(stock) to even connect to the pinion. And I'v been told I cannot have a double carden design with the slip yoke at the Tcase. I talked with Jess at High Angle Driveline, and he said he could get me setup, but in the neighborhood of a $1000

My truck is an 87 B2, Leaf sprung SAS, high pinion D44, front axle stretched 6". Borg Warner 1350 Mechanical Tcase.

18" from ground to center of the pinion, 26.5" from ground to center of slip yoke in the transfercase, 31" from slip yoke to Ujoint cradle on the pinion.

Any ideas?

-Jester

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

And I'v been told I cannot have a double carden design with the slip yoke at the Tcase.
Any ideas?

-Jester

Just throwing this idea out until someone with more knowledge can answer. Replace the tc with one with a fixed front yoke and a double-cardan shaft. I may have an extra fixed yoke tc available soon if that works. Also you may be able to use a dremel to clearance around the u-joints to get a few more degrees of movement.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[satan]

In a double-cardan shaft, any slip has to be in the shaft itself...

I generally work these kinda oddities with Tom Woods ( http://www.4xshaft.com ); they've created some excellent solutions over the years.

For a 31" shaft that rises only 8.5" -- your angle should be pretty close to 15* at the D44 and 15* +/- whatever the angle at the t-case output is -- 15* is kinda the ragged edge for deep yokes on a 2-u-joint setup. If you get much droop - you could be binding -- an as you're saying - whatever yokes you're working with are already binding the joints before you can get em installed...

By the sound of things you've got your D44 set-up for a conventional 2-joint shaft (essentially, the D44's pinion & the T-case's front output shaft are parallel), right ?

If you were to switch to a dual-cardan from this 2-joint-shaft configuration, you'd need to roil the D44's pinion to be directly inline with your new drive shaft (pointed at the T-case's output), which would necessitate rolling your steering, mounts and all that as well ...

Give Tom a call, he can work ya a double-ended Dual Cardan type of shaft in that 31" which'll prolly require changing the front output of your 1350 to a flange (he can mill ya something if it's not already in stock)

 

[The Jester Race]

Just throwing this idea out until someone with more knowledge can answer. Replace the tc with one with a fixed front yoke and a double-cardan shaft. I may have an extra fixed yoke tc available soon if that works. Also you may be able to use a dremel to clearance around the u-joints to get a few more degrees of movement.
Good luck,

Richard

I think thats the last resort. I already have the rear shaft built and running, and would prefer to not have to modify it(lengthened/shortened). I guess I need to start looking into Tcase dimensions.

In a double-cardan shaft, any slip has to be in the shaft itself...

I generally work these kinda oddities with Tom Woods ( http://www.4xshaft.com ); they've created some excellent solutions over the years.

For a 31" shaft that rises only 8.5" -- your angle should be pretty close to 15* at the D44 and 15* +/- whatever the angle at the t-case output is -- 15* is kinda the ragged edge for deep yokes on a 2-u-joint setup. If you get much droop - you could be binding -- an as you're saying - whatever yokes you're working with are already binding the joints before you can get em installed...

By the sound of things you've got your D44 set-up for a conventional 2-joint shaft (essentially, the D44's pinion & the T-case's front output shaft are parallel), right ?Correct

If you were to switch to a dual-cardan from this 2-joint-shaft configuration, you'd need to roil the D44's pinion to be directly inline with your new drive shaft (pointed at the T-case's output), which would necessitate rolling your steering, mounts and all that as well ...That is not an option, it would require major modifications to the axle itself.

Give Tom a call, he can work ya a double-ended Dual Cardan type of shaft in that 31" which'll prolly require changing the front output of your 1350 to a flange (he can mill ya something if it's not already in stock)

Whats required to change the front output from a slip yoke to a fixed yoke/flange?

 

[ThatGuy]

The best thing to do would be to switch to a fixed yoke and call Carolina Driveline up. They do all of the driveshafts for the guys I ride with and price & customer support are #1.

I don't know if the front output shafts are the same or not. You could switch to a 1354 and not have any problems.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Whats required to change the front output from a slip yoke to a fixed yoke/flange?

You need a BW1354, the manual versions are fairly rare.

 

[The_Dealer]

try www.driveshaftsuperstore.com great customer service and reasonable prices, and good quality stuff

call or email, tell em what u got, and what u are trying to do and they will take care of u

 

[The Jester Race]

So where can I find a manual BW1354? If its not raining tomorrow I'm going to go to Pick'n'Pull and see if I can find one.

-Jester

 

[b2rich]

So where can I find a manual BW1354? If its not raining tomorrow I'm going to go to Pick'n'Pull and see if I can find one.

-Jester

just throwing it out there..
http://www.usedfordautoparts.com/

 

[The Jester Race]

just throwing it out there..
http://www.usedfordautoparts.com/

Forgot all about them, they're right across the street from Pick'n'Pull, I'll stop in there first.

-Jester