Hey Guys

[DudemusPrimus]

Hey Guys, new here, I have a wonderful and well maintained 04 xlt
I narrowly missed a bad head on yesterday by hoping a median, old people and rain in Naples bad mix. I was not part of the ensuing pile-up but a victim of the un insured like the others. Thought all was well and safe but my poor pony snapped an axle, the whole tire, rear left drum and back plate snapped off. Upon closer inspection this morning I saw a little dent at the end of the tube where the seal seats that I am not sure will seal up if I get a new axle and brake components so I hope to post a picture for some advice.
Soo bummed because it's bad timing with money issues and was just let down big time by homeowners insurance after a robbery and here I am again, in a so called grey area, that I am sure translates into me footing the costs after meeting with my carrier and going over the report just an hour or so ago.
I will be posting questions about the fix and if at this point it is better to just swap out the whole rear. I read up on one of the 8.8 swaps and it was just a hair daunting but a challenge I may need to step up to for what I did have in mind to do in the coming year. A few years back as payback a friend of mine re payed me with a nicely built motor. I will be searching and weighing and posting in the V8 swap area as well. At this point I could really use some comrodery and sound advice. What a pickle.
It's nice to be a member, thanks

 

[don4331]

DudemusPrimus:

Sorry to hear about the hard luck. The swap from busted axle to new axle isn't that daunting much less so than a V-8 swap; you just need a couple custom tools (at least IMHO).

12 point 12mm socket for 1/2" drive (breaker bar for 1/2" assumed to be standard toolkit)
7/16" line wrench (it might be 11mm but my Snap-On Imperial worked fine).

Deep sockets are advantage over box wrenches; floor jack/jack stands are also assumed to be part of standard tool kit.

I've got it down to point I can swap axles between trucks and have both up and running; brakes bled within 6 hrs. (Ok, I have 2 assistants for ~ 1 hour: 1 - 11, 1 - 16 and Dewalt electric impacts).

I didn't see which historical post has you intimidated; but I can post my process if you want (I'm going to do Explorer axle swap/lower one of my '98 2wds)

 

[DudemusPrimus]

thanks Don,
I will get those tools. The V8 swap is a lot more nerve racking, I think I am a little stressed and believe it or not I already feel encouraged with the replies I have gotten. I know I may need some more advice when I decide to dive in and un-doubtedlly run into a prob.

Don I would be floored if you did a write up on your swap.

 

[SenorNoob]

What's the 12mm 12pt socket for?

 

[kunar]

What's the 12mm 12pt socket for?

Drive shaft bolts, they only fit 12 point.

 

[don4331]

Rear Axle Swap

Ok, I cheat and use a pair of vise grips to gently hold the emergency cable to take tension off.

Then I separate the e-brake cable: 1st going to the cab then the drivers and passengers sides. (This is biggest PIA of whole process).

At this point, I break the 4 bolts on the drive shaft loose as they are locktited and need large amount of force (breaker bar and maybe some pipe). With the bolts loose, I jack it up, put stands under and remove the wheels.

Remove the driver's side cable and the passenger's. The passengers threads through the frame - it is handy to have someone pulling while you push it through the rail. Note: you need to carefully undo the clips hold the rear differential sensor wire to the brake line...

Undo the shock bolt and the sway bar (if so equipped) and the 2 u-bolts on each side (I hit everything with a shot of WD40), I leave the nuts for the u-bolts just on at this point. (Electric impact speeds process).

Carefully undo the wire on the differential, and then undo the brake line. (I admit I undid the mount which the brake line mounts to, so I could get better leverage on the spring clip which holds it in place). Ideally, you will have something to plug the brake line (especially if the truck has ABS). I used the opportunity to flush the line...ya, that's what I planned...

With the differential only held by a couple threads on each u-bolt, a check to ensure no other connections. With confirmation that the differential was ready to remove; the hydraulic jack was slid under the differential center and the u-bolts removed.

The hydraulic jack was lowered and the old differential slid out.

Reverse process for installation; then bleed brakes. I tip one side up, get u-bolts started/basically in place, then go to other side.

My 11 year old runs QC ensuring all nuts on u-bolts are coming down evenly.

Pictures should follow process (+ advertisement for DeWalt)

 

[SenorNoob]

I don't get that. Why do you need a socket to remove them? I've changed the same 8 bolts about 6 times in the last week and never used anything but a 12mm wrench with a 13mm clipped over the end of it for extra leverage.