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Hesitation


britej

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2011
Messages
13
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
differential diagnosis people:

I have searched and cant seem to fix this. I have a 1996 2.3l standard ranger that hesitates for a split second if you mash the gas pedal too fast. It idles ok, and runs ok, but if you mash the pedal, it will almost kill the engine. I have cleanded the maf, the iac valve,changed the pcv, and changed the fuel filter..air filter is ok, wires look good.. cant find a vacum leak... nothing has fixed this. any ideas???

it has platinum plugs that look ok...

I am stumped on this one..

Thanks
 
mine did that only it just hesitated but reved right up, never tried to stall. i tried seafoam and that helped a lot. i would try it but it sounds like you might have a bigger problem. give it a try though
 
I believe I will.. I will try a bottle thru the tank and see..
 
I believe I will.. I will try a bottle thru the tank and see..

i put a bottle thur the tank then put half a bottle thru the brake booster hose run it till the smoke stops. then do the other half
 
I am now thinking it might be the MAF... autozone wanted 92 bucks for one.. so, i iwll need to make sure first. but, I cleaned the heck out of it--but didnt make a difference... so, If I unplug the maf, and the hesitation is still there, that would prove that it is NOT the maf?? corret?

I will still try the seafoam aswell.. but havent purchased any seafoam yet.. I think wallyworld here sells it tho.
 
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no luck on the seafoam.. no change at all. so, i am thinking it is either the maf or o2 sensor... any way to test the o2 sensor???
 
Well, see in the first post what all i have done.. and I ran seafoam thru a couple of tanks.. and had autozone check for codes--none. so, i guess i will have to change plugs and wires (checked the plugs and they looked fine).. oh well, we'll see.
 
Have you cleaned the throttle body?? Dirt build up around the throttle plate and vacuum pick-ups can affect off idle transition. Another check would be the throttle position sensor. With an ohmeter hooked up, you should have a steady change as you open the throttle valve. Sounds like you have covered everything else.
 
differential diagnosis people:

I have searched and cant seem to fix this. I have a 1996 2.3l standard ranger that hesitates for a split second if you mash the gas pedal too fast. It idles ok, and runs ok, but if you mash the pedal, it will almost kill the engine. I have cleanded the maf, the iac valve,changed the pcv, and changed the fuel filter..air filter is ok, wires look good.. cant find a vacum leak... nothing has fixed this. any ideas???

it has platinum plugs that look ok...

I am stumped on this one..

Thanks

Why fuss over it then? I mean, who mashes the pedal like that anyway unless you're drag racing? Okay maybe an emergency, but you said it was for a split second. Are you doing this while driving down the road or in your driveway stomping the throttle? If it doesn't do it from a roll I'd be less concerned with it. You're gonna start spending hundreds of dollars for a truck that runs and idles fine. You must be picky like me :icon_cheers:
 
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actually I mis typed.. it does not idle ok... it does at startup, but after a few minutes, after the motor warms up, it idles very eratically. no codes showing.... but, i have had it stall a few times while taking off at a stop light on a hill... if you dont hold the brake and rev the motor a few times before letting out on the clutch, it will stall.. anyway.. i am picky too, i want it to run right, and feel it is a problem that will fix easy (whenever I can find the problem)..

I will clean the throttle body when i change the plugs, i hope this weekend.

anyway, i bought a brand spanking new chevy duramax crew 4x4 ltz last year, and bought this 96 truck last month... i leave the d-max parked and drive this back and forth to work.. it is a fun little truck.
 
If it does not idle after warm-up and idles erratically, good possibility your EGR is not operating correctly or you have a serious vacuum leak somewhere. I would pull and plug the vacuum line to your EGR. If it is OK, it most likely your EGR vacuum controller that cycles the vacuum to your EGR valve. If it still has an erratic idle, I would pull and clean the EGR valve. If it does not seat fully closed, it will lean out the mixture and cause an erratic idle. Had both issues on my '97. Next would be to start checking/changing all the vacuum lines.
 
Just for clarification, when you plug the vacuum line off the EGR soleinod what can you expect and when?
 
If your EGR controller is not allowing the valve to close, pulling the vacuum line from it to the valve and plugging it takes it out of the picture. You should get a good idle immediately. The contoller is on the passenger side of the motor. Has a vacuum line in and one out plus an electrical plug. Some folks on here say they plug the line and leave it. The EGR system has a purpose or it wouldn't be there. You may get away with out is so long as you don't drive in extreme hot temps or really work the motor hard, ie towing etc. Helps to keep the internal engine temps from getting so high that pinging and detonation can happen. You can live with pinging but detonation can break rods or put holes in pistons. Not a good thing.
 
If your EGR controller is not allowing the valve to close, pulling the vacuum line from it to the valve and plugging it takes it out of the picture. You should get a good idle immediately. The contoller is on the passenger side of the motor. Has a vacuum line in and one out plus an electrical plug. Some folks on here say they plug the line and leave it. The EGR system has a purpose or it wouldn't be there. You may get away with out is so long as you don't drive in extreme hot temps or really work the motor hard, ie towing etc. Helps to keep the internal engine temps from getting so high that pinging and detonation can happen. You can live with pinging but detonation can break rods or put holes in pistons. Not a good thing.


Okay..I've been running some tests on peripheral devices trying to track down a rough idle on my truck. I took my EGR off and vacuum tested it visually, and it opened and held perfectly for over 5 minutes. It was nice and clean and seated well. O.P. might want to check that.

Also, I checked the EGR solenoid for operation. Using a vacuum gauge, I hooked in line with the vacuum line to the solenoid (and a length of line long enough to bring the gauge into the cab). I drove down the road watching for vacuum signal. It works fine and creates vacuum as the engine is under load. As you let off the gas or are at idle vacuum is turned off. Just a way to check it if you want. You can also run a T connector during the test so the EGR is still hooked up with the gauge.:icon_thumby:
 
wondering if you ever found your problem, I have a very similar problem and its not turning the engine light on. I have changed the EGR valve, IAC, DPFE, TPS, and cleaned the MAF Sensor as well as my throttle body. I'm thinking now it may be my EGR tube is broken (looks Roached anyways) which is allowing air in and its messing with my O2 sensors.
 

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