I did a 5200 swap on my '83. I bought a rebuilt carb from a company called Autoline. No matter what I tried, I could not get the truck to run right on that carb. I had the same problem as you when accelerating that I couldn't get to go away. I also had a nasty lean spot on tip-in. Cruising through town, 30mph, throttle barely open the truck would lean out and sputter, cough, and lurch. I cleaned it, rebuilt it myself, and noticed that there was epoxy in the primary bore. My neighbor is a retired mechanic and said that back in the day, people would send in cores that were not rebuildable or otherwise problematic for exchange, so when you buy from those places there's a solid chance you're getting someone else's problem child. That kind of made sense to me.
Anyway, I ended up visiting a local guy with a farmyard full of cars, and grabbed a Pinto carb from his stash for $20. It made a world of difference as far as being able to tune it. The lean spot is still there but it's not nearly as bad. I think the problem comes from the PCV system. The PCV should block flow at idle, then open at some point after the throttle opens. If it opens before the throttle pulls enough fuel through the transition holes it leans out. I've tried a few different PCVs but they've all been worse. There's an adjustable one available somewhere but it's expensive.
You should be able to see if the pump works by looking down the bore and opening the throttle. You'll see fuel squirt out. There's also three holes for the fulcrum of the accelerator pump lever. Those control how aggressive the shot is. Mine was initially in the middle and I moved it to the most aggressive spot and it seemed to help. The thought was that the Ranger is bigger and heavier than the Pinto, so needs a bit more fuel to help it accelerate. I can't remember if the top or bottom hole is the more aggressive one, but that info is on the internet somewhere.
If you haven't seen it yet,
here is a guide for the 5200 carbs. I'm not sure how much you know about them but they are licensed copies of a Weber design that saw a lot of use in European cars, so info about the Weber 32/36 is applicable to these as well. Of special note is the initial setup, it's a bit different and the internet's opinion is that it's very important to follow that procedure. I was not able to set mine that way unless I did so without the PCV hooked up, but it should at least get things in the ballpark.
Good luck with your carb. When I swapped mine I was hoping to see better fuel economy and smoother throttle response. I'd say the throttle response has improved, but fuel economy is about the same as it was with the single barrel YFA. There's probably more tuning I could do with it but I'm kind of burnt out on it. Overall, the swap was a frustrating exercise and I probably wouldn't do it again. At this point I'm just happy it drives and runs decent enough to use.
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