Here's what I've found so far and I have a question?

[CarsonChris]

I just got back home and started digging into the BII I bought last weekend. I knew it had bad valve cover gaskets.

Thermostat, bet it hasn't been changed in ten years.
Oil, black as the darkest night. Don't see any radiator mix in it.
radiator fluid, a little dirty.

Question on valve covers? Will a leaking valve cover also create moisture buildup on the inside of it? I've got lots of moisture up top. The radiator didn't drain any when I've fired it up so I'm not sure if there's a cracked head or blown head gasket. The top radiator hose had a lot of pressure buildup when it was warm.

Will dig a little deeper later today.

 

[RonD]

There is a simple test you can do when engine is cold.

A cold cooling system has no pressure inside, only when coolant is heated does it expand and build up pressure, which the rad cap will release into overflow once 13-18psi is reached.

Remove rad cap, start cold engine, watch for bubbles, that's a sign of a cracked head or bad head gasket, cylinder/piston pressure is being pushed into cooling passages.

A little better test is to drain some coolant out, an inch or two from the top of the rad.
Remove rad cap and overflow hose.
Get a plastic sandwich baggie or latex glove.
Start cold engine
Pinch plastic baggie or latex glove over rad cap opening, use finger to block overflow outlet.
If baggie/glove starts to inflate you have a cylinder leaking into cooling system.
It will give instant results.

Blocked PCV and/or Vent tube can lead to excess condensation in valve cover and oil filler tube.
Also promotes oil leaks from extra crankcase pressure inside.

 

[CarsonChris]

Just pulled the spark plugs. The center electrode in one is gone. Some carbon build up on 3 and two are a little wet. I'm even wondering if two weren't firing. It's time for a new cap, wires, and rotor. One wire was arced out the side. The one with the electrode that was burned out.

 

[adsm08]

Snot on the inside of the valve covers and oil cap with no sign of water in the oil is a sign of a bad PCV valve.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Put a new PCV valve in it along with change the breather filter in the air filter housing. While you have the valve covers of adjust the valve lash while the engine is cold. The valve guide seals are probably shot giving it alot of blowby. You can change the seals without pulling the heads. In the tech library under 2.8l it explains how to replace the seals and adjust the valve lash. Doing a decarb is also a good thing. Bring the engine up to normal temp and pour 1/2 a can of seafoam in the carb at high idle. just pour it fast enough not to stall the motor then quickly shut it down. Let it sit 1/2 an hour then start it and run it around 3000 rpm until the smoke show stops. Make sure you do it outside with the wind blowing toward the neighbor you dont like or close all the windows and doors in your house. The more it smokes the more carbon it is burning up.

 

[CarsonChris]

I'm thinking the lifter tick isn't a tick from lack of oil. I think the electrode that broke off the one plug is the tick I hear in the top of the engine. Ran it up and down the street. I think the
A4ld is toast. Going to look at swapping it out. There's a wrecked BII at the local yard that was hit broadside. Has an A4ld. Wondering if there's heavy duty kits for the A4ld that upgrade the guts? I might yank this one and have it rebuilt.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/ If you have a good transmission shop near you yes the tranny can be upgraded I rebuilt my C-3 my first auto was quite the project it still hasn`t died thinking about upgrading to a A4LD myself if you look in the tech library it explains the improvments they made. Still looking for one I can go through the C-3 was a biotch tho.