• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Help!


iamchaos23

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
12
City
Olympia, WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Manual
so i got an 83 2.8l 2wd 5spd. the resivor on the left frame rail (overflow for the carb?) filled up with gas and started leaking. im getting the motorcraft 2150 a rebuilt right now. how do i bypass this resivor or can i?

thank you.
 
carbon canister? it should never fill with fuel
 
They are not cheap but rebuild your carb first off to stop the raw fuel going in. Replace the carbon cannister and check replace the rubber vacuum lines going to it. The vacuum for it pulls from the nipple on the back of the egr spacer undert the carb. It is hard to see but goes from there to the evp solenoid the one with two wires, make sure it is working the computer controls it. With the key on you have hot to it and the computer controls the ground. The float bowl solenoid is normally open and when you turn the key on it closes it. It is the one with one wire to the harness and the other grounds to the carb base. With the carbon cannister full of fuel you will have trouble dialing in the carb and it will always smell of fuel when the engine is stopped. Once you rebuild the carb turn the idle air screws out three turns (trust me) and start the engine let it warm all the way up first. Pull the top off the carb and check your float bowl level. You want the fuel in the float bowl around 3/4 of an inch from the top of the carb or 0.81 inches. You can run the engine with the top off so you can make the wet adjustment let it run for a bit to verify the adjustment. When you adjusting the idle air you want all the sensors plugged in and vacuum lines connected especially the air cleaner IAT sensor and vacuum to the door. Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes. Start it and make sure the choke is fully open after you bring it up to temp, while it is running disconnect the idle control motor on the front bottom of the carb. Adjust the idle air screws for the highest vacuum or rpm on both sides then plug the motor back in the engine should idle right down. Turn the antidiesel screw out to make sure the idle motor is controling the idle that is the screw that on the base of the carb next to the throttle shaft pointing down. Now turn the engine off and the idle motor should fully extend pushing the throttle open some. Unplug the idle motor again and then start it this is your curb idle loosen the hold down screw for the motor and adjust it to around 1200 rpm and lock it down and plug the idle motor back in it should idle right down computer controling the idle, then turn the antidiesel screw down to where it starts to raise the rpm a little and back it out a full turn the computer should take back over. Once you get the float adjusted, idle air and curb idle and antidiesel good then you can adjust the choke thermostat for the proper spring tension. I have tried the way the book says but Had the best sucess doing it this way for performance and ecomomy. Print this out and you can call me if your having trouble the feedback carb is a bitch to dial in but if the computer is working correct they actually run real good. It is real important to have all the sensors plugged in whenever you start the motor or the computer goes wacko and needs to be reset by disconnecting the batt for at least 20 minutes. 206-909-3308 Kim
 
thanks

thanks for the help.... i will get it running right. if not i will duraspark it.
 
how about this? i got a nice tuned and rebuilt carb hooked up and running right, should i drain the carbon canister or just bypass the whole thing?
 
You can try draining it and hooking it back up if your no longer getting raw fuel in it it will eventually purge itself as long as the vacuum solenoid is working correct. Pull the vacuum hose off it and see if your getting vacuum to it you need to give it gas at the same time your checking the computer controls the solenoid. If it is getting vacuum there it will purge the vapors and burn them in the cylinders.
 
Just plugging the vacuum to it will not hurt anything you will get fuel vapors in the negine compartment when the engine is not running. I personally hate the smell of fuel in the engine area it makes me worry all the time.
 
thanx alot people. i should be hooking up rebuilt carb today and getting on down the road of repair list. what's next nobody knows. i love my truck
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top