Help

[Bob Bauer]

I have a 1990 2.3 that I've put in my 1988 ranger. I put my intake and carb off of the 2.0 on the 2.3 and I can't get it right. It runs but it runs rich. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this since this 2.0 intake mounts right up to the 2.3. Any suggestions would be greatly apprieciated. thanks.

 

[Mark_88]

OK, you're in the right forum, but do you happen to have pics that you can post of the carb? or just let us know if it's a one or two barrel carb...I had a two barrel from a 2.0 and it wasn't that good...and I can't recall if there were any adjustments on it...I remember three vac lines from the side of the carb and a few other details...and having to connect the distributor to an upper manifold vac line to get it to work properly...

Are you using the emission controls? Are they connected properly? If the engine was working fine with the 2.0 and the only thing you changed was the engine, there may be a slight mismatch in the round port and D port heads that can cause fuel pooling...but otherwise it should work fine (I know, I said that already...)

 

[Mark_88]

Not sure if you've fixed this yet, but I forgot to mention that if the idle is high and there are no apparent carb adjustments, you might be able to adjust through rotation of the distributor...clockwise should lower the rpms...

 

[Bob Bauer]

The carb is a 2 barrel motocraft 5200. I do not have the emissions system hooked up, it was all bypassed when I bought the truck. The vacuum lines are a mess. I hooked them up going by the diagram on the truck and whether I have them hooked up or all plugged it makes no difference in the running of the engine.

 

[Mark_88]

This may seem a bit jumbled, but it's like my mind when I try to attack these problems...

The 5200 (if it's like mine) has two adjustments on the intake side (towards driver side)...one for idle and one for fuel...if you look on the other side of the carb there is another screw setting that I think is for air (I lost my diagrams and can't get back into the ARRC site for some reason) or maybe another fuel...but if you have that too far open your idle goes up (it's a slotted screw near the front of the carb).

Did you hook up the ICM connectors from the passenger side? Those are for idle control, but, apparently, they can be completely disconnected on the 5200...I'm still working on that myself...

Also, are you sure you don't have a vac line open somewhere? They can cause the idle to go up or down...plug up everything on the intake itself...there should be at least 5 outlets...depending on your intake...

Oh, and make sure the PCV cannister is connected under the intake and to the carb...

Did you hook up the EGR? (Dang, I think you just helped me figure mine out...I didn't hook that up yet and it usually lowers the idle...)

 

[Bob Bauer]

Well I've run up on deal. A buddy of mine has gave me an intake and a 1 barrel carb off of a mustang. It's got the D shaped ports and my head has the oval shaped ports. I'm gonna try that and see if it works. And also I found out that the 2 barrel carbs that I have are not 5200's they are Aisan's. My opinion is that they are junk. This 1 barrel that I got has not got all those vacuum's on it. I'm hoping it will fix this problem. I hope you got yours fixed. and thanks for the help.

 

[Mark_88]

Mine's better...thanks...I've been playing with the fuel/air mixture and I got the idle down, but it runs sluggish...

I tried a Mustang 1bbl and it would not idle properly...even higher than the problem I have now...be careful with them because they have a different connector on the distributor that is needed to make them run right...from what I remember...but if you can make it work...let us know...it was a good carb and my truck had all kinds of zip...but I went back to the 2bbl and when I found the 5200 and intake for it...this cleared up much of my previous problems...

This problem may be due to timing and/or the port job I did on the head before it was rebuilt...

Let us know either way...

 

[BogusSVO]

Bob, are you sure you have an oval port in your head?
the oval port head I want to say would be 74-79 (?) then Ford went to the D port

the 2.0 that you had should be a round port Intake runner, a little bigger than a fifth cent piece.

now if you tried to bolt the Ranger 2.0L round Intake, to a 2.3 oval or D port runner
#1 and #4 runners will not be fully covered by the intake mani flange.

 

[Duane867]

adapter plate.

 

[Bob Bauer]

the intake i have now is a D port. It came off of an early 80's model mustang. the carb is a carter/weber made for motorcraft 1 barrel. the ports on this intake look exactly like the ports on the fuel injection intake that i took off the engine. i'll be able to let ya'all know in the next few days if it works or not. thanks

 

[Bob Bauer]

I have the truck running with this mustang intake and 1 bbl. carb (YFA). It is still running rich and at times misses a little but I'm fixing to start driving it daily anyway. Maybe it will come out of it some or at least I'll have to deal with it more. I'll keep ya'all posted. Thanks

 

[Mark_88]

Cool...post pics if you can...I'd like to see if it was the same one I tried...I think I forgot to change the distributor when I swapped it out so there was no way to control the idle on mine...other than rolling the dizzy...but that didn't help...

 

[Bob Bauer]

it won't let me post the pics. Its asking for a URL address. I can't get the engine to run right but it is running. I drove the truck about 20 miles today. It still runs rich. not so bad at idle but when you hit the gas its bad. And the choke has to be almost closed at idle even if its warmed up or it will stall.

 

[Mark_88]

Sounds like some of the problems I had when I tried a 1bbl...but it ran like a goat on nitro when it was on the highway...

The choke having to be nearly closed is what I had a problem with on mine...it would not idle without the choke closed...but a friend cleaned it up and that cured the problem...but now it idles fast after I run it for a while (especially on the highway) when I come to a stop...

Maybe try running some carb cleaner through it...or take it apart and clean it if you're up to it...might want to get a gasket set before going that route...as I think that's what's needed on mine...

 

[Bob Bauer]

I'm definitly gonna try to rebuild the carb. I have done it once already but it was my first time rebuilding one and I think I may have overlooked something important. Did yours or does yours run rich and miss? thanks for the info.