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Help!!!!!


The Weasel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
56
City
Lindale, TX
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Manual
I am trying to get my 302 in a 84 ranger 2wd that had a 2.8 V6. The motor mounts that I got from summit racing did not want to line up. The passanger side mount went in but the driver side mount stud was below the hole in the frame. It seems like the engine needs to set further back so I will have room for a fan. Also the oil filter relocation kit was hitting the powersterring box and there is no room for headers. I have pics that I can email because iI can't figure out how to post them on here.

Thanks for the help
Chance
 
You want a 90degree oil filter relocation, if that's not what you have.

You may need to drill new holes for the mounts. I've heard the "kits" are not necessarily bolt in. (recommendation next time: Use Mustang mounts, drill your own holes)

Your rad will likely need to go under the core support. Look for TS6034 's build, or pics I've posted (mine is different, newer, but same idea). Basically, sit the rad on the frame rail against the core support. I cut 1/4" off the bottom of the core support. Only way around this is to use the front accessories off a '94/'95 Mutang, an Explorer 5.0, or other Fords with the short front dress. They are about 1.5", maybe more, SHORTER than standard accessories.

Headers, I suggest '65 Mustang tri-Y's, various companies. There are other options.

For pics, create a www.photobucket.com account (or similar) and use the links from the site.
 
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Teddyzee has nailed in terms of parts. I used a rad out of a 94 Explorer with an automatic and built my lower core support out of stainless steel. My rad tucks perfectly under the core support and I run an accesory drive from a Bronco and I also run a Derale mechanical fan with tons of clearance for the rad. The secret was to mount the motor offset slightly to the passenger side and far back in the engine bay. Just be patient and do lots of test fitting.
 
Thanks for the help
Chance

Wait, what?

But in regards to your question... nothing about these trucks are really ever "just bolt on" when it comes to swaps so just know you always gotta go into fabbing something up.

+1 on the motor mounts for next time... I've never quite understood the "conversion" ones.

I would push the engine back a lil though
 
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Yes, it doesn't "look" like there's room for headers, but there often is!

DSC02065.jpg
 
I have a radiator that sits where the condensor was. One of the issuses I am having is that I don't have access to a welder or cutting torch. I will try to figure out where to drill the holes for the mounts. Will I be able to get the transmission and driveshaft on it if it is offset to the passanger side?
 
First thing you're doing wrong is trying to put the engine in by itself. Both engine and transmission need to go in together in order to decide where the mounts need to be located. The engine needs to be as low as you can go, as far back against the firewall as you can and still have access to the rear of the heads (if you're keeping the Thermactor plumbing) and centered between the fenders. Do not try to center it in the frame, the frame is offset slightly to the passenger side. Then level the carb pad or lower EFI intake pad (that mates to the upper) both side to side and front to back. The truck will need to be level as well. Once all this is decided, point the transmission tailshaft toward the pinion yoke. With all this done, there is plenty of room for headers (tri-Y's, Hedman shortys and a few others)
 

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