Help with my '99 Flex Fuel

[Brizane]

First, hello, everyone. I've spent a long time reading here, every time I have an issue with my Ranger. You all are some great help to us out here.

Now, I'm in some deep water here. I blew at least the head gasket. My mechanic tells me I had 2 quarts of water in my pistons, and my oil looks horrid. I just got it home and parked it in the garage, trying to figure out what to do.

I checked Craigslist, after learning here that I could fairly cheaply swap my motor out with a like model. But, this has brought up some issues. So, I'm hoping you all can help me.

I found a 2002 3.0 motor. Its not Flex Fuel. Its also off an automatic, and mine is a 5 speed manual.

1. Will a non-Flex Fuel swap out exactly with my old Flex Fuel?

2. Is there going to be an issue going from a motor mounted to a manual, vs one from an automatic?

I found another add for a 3.0 Flex Fuel, but when I called the guy ( I am pretty sure he was a junk yard), He had me go to my door panel and read the date on the sticker there. After telling him (10/98 by the way), he told me his was a different date, and it wouldn't work.

3. Is there a year issue, with my motor? If so, what years are compatible with my truck?

I race dirt bikes, and i can tear them down to every nut and bolt, and put them back together again. While I am new to working on trucks, I think I am mechanically inclined enought o swap out a motor, if I can work out the details of things I do not know.

Thank you again for all your time and help.

Brizane

 

[RangerSVT]

For what its gonna cost you to either rebuild the 3.0 you have, or swap another in, you can swap a 5.0 from an explorer (its like a 98% bolt in swap) for about the same if not cheaper than the 3.0L...
1. No probs, just use your fuel injection system
2. No again, just take your flexplate and swap with the flywheel
3. 98+ I believe is the same as yours, 97 and older had a different fuel system...
SVT

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Well the first motor should work, Although with a newer motor like that you will need to get the correct computer and get it reflashed to match your keys.

The second one will work, as they didn't have flex fuel 3.0L rangers before 98 the only problem would be him thinking it was a 98 without the PATS system.

 

[RangerSVT]

From what he is saying, he is mechanically inclined enough to find a 3.0L long block and transfer his electronics and fuel system from his orignal motor to the replacement...At least that's how I read it...
SVT

 

[Brizane]

Ok, as far as the second guy I call, from the junk yard, that makes sense. When he asked me to check my date, I believe he said his was a newer model. If my motor is a 10/98, then anything newer would not fall into the 98-09 category of motor, that is compatible, correct?

Also, I've read that if I go to a non-flex fuel, I'll have issues with emissions testing, as it makes the engine light come on with things like faulty o2 sensor reads. How do I work around this?

Sadly, thus far, I've had no luck finding an exact version of my motor. Still looking, though.

Brizane

 

[RangerSVT]

As previously stated, if you get a 3.0L and put your electronics and fuel system on, you will not have any problems...Welcome to TRS
SVT

 

[TomB1269]

The blocks are nearly identical since the 80s. The difference between the years is in fuel delivery (injected, carb'd etc), ingnition and ECM (computer). The exception is the Flex, it is my understanding that there heads have a slightly different camber size. So if you do not find a flex engine, you will need to swap heads. I would ask, why not tear it down and rebuild it? Is there damage to the block or heads, IE cracked? You should be able to get a complete gasket kit, and bearings, maybe even rings for 500 or 600.

 

[stmitch]

If you're looking for a complete replacement engine that would just "drop in", then you'll need to narrow your search to 98+ ranger motors. If you're willing to do a little work, you can just reuse the top end of your motor, along with the electronics on any 3.0 Vulcan long block. ANY 3.0 long block will work without issue. There were millions made, and used in several different models since the 80's.

It doesn't need to be a Flex fuel motor, unless you plan on using e-85. If you want a flex fuel 3.0, I'd look for a Taurus/Sable engine. They're cheaper/easier to find in my experience. If you go this route, you'd need to keep your ranger head gaskets, and lower intake manifold, as well as exhaust manifolds.

Also, there shouldn't be any issues with putting an engine from an auto into your truck. Just replace the flywheel with your flexplate as stated.

As far as the PATS issue, I believe any dealer would be able to reprogram the system for the replacement motor. There may be tuners that could do it as well.

 

[Brizane]

You guys are so helpful. This is great. Ok, so let me give more info, maybe my situation is not as bad as I think. Here's the scoop, as I saw it...

I drove to a BBQ on Saturday. Drove home, parked in the garage. When I got out of the truck, the garage felt very hot. Now I live in Phoenix, and it was 110 that day, but still, it seemed hotter than normal. Still, obviously not enough to concern me. Didn't drive on Sunday.

Monday morning, got up early for the gym. Hopped in the truck and about 2 miles from home the motor died when I clutched, coming up on a stop sign. Turned the radio off, and she fired right up. Turned the corner of the block, hit the radio, and then next stop sign, died again coasting after clutching. Figured it to be a bad alternator or battery, turned around and drove home. After the local autozone open, drove it there for a check. The said my battery was dead. Bought a new one, slapped it in, headed home to pick up my work things, and head to work. All seemed well.

About a mile fom home, heading to work, pulled away from a stop sign, and she felt sluggish, like I was in the wrong gear. Pulled over, and she died. Wouldn't restart. I pushed her home, popped the hood and checked my oil. Saw water drops on the dipstick. Checked the radiator, couldn't see water. Added water, and she took tons. Seriously, like she was empty.

Had it tow'd to my mechanic. He calls me later, says the engine is blown, found 2 quarts of water in the piston tubes, and the oil looked like melted ice cream. Tow'd it home, not sure really what to do.

And, here I am. Money is really tight, so I'm having to learn to do all this on my own.

Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?

I really do appreciated all your help.

Brizane

P.S. I am writing this from my iPhone at work, so please forgive my spelling and grammar.

 

[TomB1269]

Got tools......Start tearing her down for a rebuild....when moneys available buy parts, maybe a few here and a few there. Eventually you be done.

PS: for long term (ie multi weekend gob take photos to remember where stuff goes and mark hoses with tape a number system.

 

[Big Jim M]

Typical!

You guys are so helpful. This is great. Ok, so let me give more info, maybe my situation is not as bad as I think. Here's the scoop, as I saw it...

I drove to a BBQ on Saturday. Drove home, parked in the garage. When I got out of the truck, the garage felt very hot. Now I live in Phoenix, and it was 110 that day, but still, it seemed hotter than normal. Still, obviously not enough to concern me. Didn't drive on Sunday.

Monday morning, got up early for the gym. Hopped in the truck and about 2 miles from home the motor died when I clutched, coming up on a stop sign. Turned the radio off, and she fired right up. Turned the corner of the block, hit the radio, and then next stop sign, died again coasting after clutching. Figured it to be a bad alternator or battery, turned around and drove home. After the local autozone open, drove it there for a check. The said my battery was dead. Bought a new one, slapped it in, headed home to pick up my work things, and head to work. All seemed well.

About a mile fom home, heading to work, pulled away from a stop sign, and she felt sluggish, like I was in the wrong gear. Pulled over, and she died. Wouldn't restart. I pushed her home, popped the hood and checked my oil. Saw water drops on the dipstick. Checked the radiator, couldn't see water. Added water, and she took tons. Seriously, like she was empty.

Had it tow'd to my mechanic. He calls me later, says the engine is blown, found 2 quarts of water in the piston tubes, and the oil looked like melted ice cream. Tow'd it home, not sure really what to do.

And, here I am. Money is really tight, so I'm having to learn to do all this on my own.

Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?

I really do appreciated all your help.

Brizane

P.S. I am writing this from my iPhone at work, so please forgive my spelling and grammar.

Your post is TYPICAL of an engine that has had a small external leak.. These leaks aren't usually found until something BLOWS!
Your short trips and the low coolant caused a failure in the coolant system.
Hopefully all that is bad is the headgaskets... But there is a chance of a cracked head or even a cracked block..though the cracked block is rare.

I'd be for pulling the heads and looking closely at the headgaskets.. Then I'd examine the heads for cracks.. None found I'd put her back together and cross my fingers as to wheather or not I found all the cracks.

Others may have the heads fluxed by the shop to find hidden cracks.. But that would entail a complete valve job and I HATE those..
Big JIm

 

[Big Jim M]

This is a PS!
Turn that damn radio off and listen to your engine for a few hundred miles.
Big JIm